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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : El Cap Tree (5.7 C2)
By: randy88fj62 When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Completed the first two pitches of El Cap Tree Route on Sunday May 5th, 2013. Here’s a few notes to help keep the info current on this route:
Pitch 1 Rack:
BD cams C3’s up to #1 C4. Could have used doubles of red #1’s. Only used one C3, forget which one but not the smallest Grey 000. Blue/yellow offset mastercam made getting onto bolt ladder real easy. I recommend carrying a set of offset cams. Only used 4 nuts (regular set would work, no offset nuts required). For the rivet ladder ... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Rap Flake (5.8)
By: randy88fj62 When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are no more fixed pins on this route.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : The Whale : Bony Fingers (5.11b R)
By: randy88fj62 When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Approach was straight forward. Follow road/trail roughly 1.5 miles until it peters out into a talus slope. Follow talus slope up to base. You can see the whale formation from the trail.
Don't take the first talus slope up that does not cross the trail. That slope goes up to trango / gaucho areas.
Aided bony fingers. Did the 5.11b direct start with ladders and all.
I was able to do two hook moves (2 bd cliff hangers) after the three bolts to gain the small ledge. Standing on the ledge I was ab... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Dome : West Crack (5.9)
By: randy88fj62 When: Jun 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Completed West Crack on 6-16-12. I recommend climbing this route in the morning or the late afternoon. The midday sun hits hard on this wall and will make you sweat. The first two pitches are the hardest and the rest is cruising from there.
First pitch takes gear up to a BD #2. Doubles in the lower to midsize range are nice but the first pitch eats up nuts too (I placed three.)
Second pitch pulls over the crux roof protected by an angle piton and gains the wide crack. Stay out of the cra... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: randy88fj62 When: May 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did snake dike Saturday 5/12. Left curry village parking lot at 8:30am and got back to car at 11:00pm. Last chance for water was at Nevada Falls. Fill up and drink as much as you can there. The climber’s trail is not too hard to find and follow in daylight using supertopo description. Had to wait in line at the climb for about an hour since we left late. We topped out and descended cables with prusiks before dark. Hiked down to valley via headlamp.
I am a solid 5.8 trad leader and this is the ra... more >>
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Location: Nathan Fitzhugh : Big Bear : Photo
By: randy88fj62 When: Apr 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What climb is this? I'm looking for offwidth climbs in the Big Bear area.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The Chicken (& Hyperion Sla... : Hyperion (5.7)
By: randy88fj62 When: Jan 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the 2 pitches on 1\23\11. First belay anchor has 2 bolts, one of which has a spinning hangar. Second pitch was easy and had good bolts at the top. Most of the bolts on this multipitch climb are 5/16" grade 5.
The bolt at the bottom crux / overhang was well positioned and allowed me to lead without any risk.
NOTE: Bring TWO ropes as the first belay station is rather high and cannot be rapped off of with a 70m rope.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The Egg : Exhilaration (5.11a/b)
By: randy88fj62 When: Jan 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed on this route Sunday 1/23/11. The bolt before the crux / overhang is dangerously loose. Seems that a lot of people fall on this bolt as there was a bail out carabiner on it when we got there. My group also could not finish the climb and bailed on the same dangerous bolt.
I climbed up the class IV backside to top rope this route and was disappointed with the top rope anchors. There is an old two bolt chain with quick links and a newer two bolt chain set. The newer chain is so small you ca... more >>
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