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 ADVANCED
Vern at the crux of the route. You can also see <a href='/v/street-sweeper/106623020'>Street Sweeper</a> (5.12a; joins in from below left); <a href='/v/my-idea-of-fun/106703074'>My Idea of Fun</a> (5.12d; takes the horizontal dike ending where Swept Away does); Sole Fusion (5.12b/c; the upper diagonal dike); and yes, <a href='/v/raked-over-the-coles/105722638'>Raked over the Coles</a> (5.10d/11a, the straight, left-hand crack down and left). Copyright 2003, by Randy V.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: May 13, 2014
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Point Rank: # 293
Total Points: 1,874
Last Year: 7
Last 30 Days: 0
21 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1331 | Routes 94 | Areas 25 | Photos 34 | Page Improvments | Comments 389 | Posts 33 | Stars 552 | Ratings 204
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Eas... : The Lobster (5.12a R)
By: Randy When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: Dick Enberg essentially does NOT exist anymore, since the pine tree has fallen over.

The tree was in declining health for many years and died a couple years back (but was still upright). For a few years, climbing the tree (which was increasingly leaning further from the face) was not really possible. It fell within the last year.

So, the only way of doing this line now is via The Lobster.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Snickers : Snickers - North Face : Way of Life (5.11b/c)
By: Randy When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments: "Permission" to replace (or place) bolts on this crag is not necessary as it does not lie in designated Wilderness.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : The Galapagos : Finch Dome : Fluid Tech (5.9)
By: Randy When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: Yes, that is Fluid Tech.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Double Dip (5.6)
By: Randy When: Feb 7, 2014

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Comments: The Classics Guide does state for routes of Echo Rock:

Safety Advisory Be aware that these routes are not sport bolted and may be considered run out by today’s standards.

But, an additional note of this in the Double Dip description will be added to the second edition.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Real Hidden Valley Boulderi... : Turtle Rock Circuit : ... : So High (V5 R)
By: Randy When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: I am relaying this information from a North Face advertisement written by Cedar Wright which appears on the first two pages of Urban Climber magazine #11, June/July 2006

Oh! Well, its gotta be true. lol


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - West Face : Safety In Numbers (5.10a R)
By: Randy When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: Here is a more precise linky -- so you don't have to scroll to the 4th page


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - SW Face : ... : Photo
By: Randy When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: All very worthwhile short sport routes. As Todd stated, check it out first.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Thrutcher Dome : Feeding Frenzy (5.10b)
By: Randy When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: Quite grainy and not particularly enjoyable. Perhaps if it had MANY, MANY ascents and cleaned up, it would be worth the walk.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Volcano Boulder : ... : Photo
By: Randy When: Feb 15, 2013

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Comments: Good technique on that slab!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : Eagle Talons (5.12a)
By: Randy When: Feb 13, 2013

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Comments: Awesome Photo!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : Swept Away (5.11a)
By: Randy When: Jan 12, 2013

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Comments: On Friday, January 11, 2013, Italian actress Mariangela Melato who starred with Giancarlo Giannini in the 1974 film Swept Away -- which inspired this route name -- passed away. She also appeared in several other films directed by the renown Lina Wertmuller, including "The Seduction of Mimi" and "Love and Anarchy." The full title of the film is "Swept Away...by an unusual destiny in the blue sea of August."


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Photo
By: Randy When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: I like this perspective. It really captures the feel of the pitch. Nice shot.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Zippy Rock : Gargoyle (5.6)
By: Randy When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: If true, I don't expect them to last.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : The Eye (5.4) : Photo
By: Randy When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: Great shot.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Gaucho Marx (5.8+)
By: Randy When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: Seems the descriptions for Gaucho Marx and Do Rein Me (presently "Unknown") are mixed up. Odd since the poster of this route was on the FA.

Gaucho Marx begins about 30+ feet left and uphill of Right On, just down, right and below the big pine tree marking the start of Orange Flake.

Climb up a indistinct water streak past two bolts to a bolt on Orange Flake, continue directly up the "Orange" flake feature -- Orange Flake route traverses right here -- passing two more bolts until a flake/ledge ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Do Rein Me (5.8+)
By: Randy When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: If I might presume to out-guess the first ascentionist, I believe this route is Do Rein Me. *

It actually starts about 15+ feet left of Right On and follows a water groove past 7 bolts more or less directly up toward the long left crack system (which is followed by the upper pitches of Orange Flake). Move left near the bottom of the crack, passing an 8th and last bolt, then traverse directly left to a 2 bolt anchor (85+ foot rappel from here).

FA: Todd Swain, Donette Swain, June, 2004.

  • (Th...
 more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Snickers : Snickers - North Face : Fresno (5.10a)
By: Randy When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: This route actually lies to the left of Fresno and Bakersfield, well to the left of the tree (not right) in the Fresno route photo posted by Todd.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles Corridor : Isles Corridor - Left Side : Crack 4 (5.10c R)
By: Randy When: Oct 14, 2012

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Comments: Easily as good as Crack 5 and Crack 6. The unprotected part of the route is 5.10, so it leaves this as a TR or bold lead.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Roadside Rocks Bouldering : JBMF Boulders : ... : Photo
By: Randy When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: So Craiger killed the tree?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : South Astro Dome : ... : Such a Savage (5.11a R)
By: Randy When: Mar 26, 2012

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Comments: The Direct Start is actually the beginning of Middle Age Savage (which then climbs the crux of Such A Savage, before moving left and then up).

Climb an easy (and obvious) ramp up and left until you are below a small right facing corner/crack system. A bolt protects climbing up into the corner. You end up moving a bit right until you are on the ledge below the well bolted crux section of Such A Savage -- the original start comes in from the right to this point.

As a side note, the ramp is actu... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Atlantis Area : Alanis (Morrisette) Wall : Excuses (5.5)
By: Randy When: Mar 21, 2012

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Comments: 3 of 4 stars is excessive to an extreme. A 1 star route even out of 5. Reminds me of Boulder Crack getting 3 out of 3 stars BITD of Climbing JT.com.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Doomsday (5.9+)
By: Randy When: Mar 1, 2012

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Comments: Never have been bolt anchors on this route. Big gear is helpful to set up an anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock- East Face : ... : Photo
By: Randy When: Oct 31, 2011

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Comments: Beta photo is not correct. Route starts well to the left of what is shown, climbs directly up to dike/roof. After initial traverse, head up easy face to end at Menace anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock- East Face : The Menace (5.10c)
By: Randy When: Oct 30, 2011

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Comments: Fun route. Rap chains have been removed (just 2 bolts now), which makes for a circuitous walk off or leaving a sling. Neither of which is a desirable situation.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Big Hunk : Big Hunk (Southwest Face) : Cyborg (5.10a)
By: Randy When: Oct 30, 2011

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Comments: 6 bolts. Loose Rock and nothing to recommend about it. Easy, but loose, climbing to last bolt and crux headwall.


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