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Escalante Canyon


Member Since: Nov 24, 2012
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Ralph Swansen

Point Rank: # 7,924
Total Points: 43
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ralph Swansen been climbing?










Contributions


All 1335 | Routes | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 33 | Posts 55 | Stars 625 | Ratings 620
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Escalante Canyon

Escalante Canyon

Ralph Swansen : Climbing

Jun 6, 2013

Somewhere on Crimson Chrysalis

Somewhere on Crimson Chrysalis

Ralph Swansen : Climbing

Dec 1, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Fantasy Ridge (5.9 PG13)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: It's spicy. Solid PG-13.
Not great for breaking into the grade. Be a solid .10 leader.
Amazing climb with almost every style of climbing.
Bring small cams up to #3, and I had doubles of #0.75, 1, 2, full set of nuts plus the three smallest tri-cams which I was very happy to have (passively) I ran it out and used everything on pitches 1/2 & 3. Trad belays.
Combining first two pitches is perfect.
The book said to head east to descend, but there are anchors on the Northwest side of the... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Cruel Shoes (5.10d)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Single rack to 3" is perfect. Maybe 12 alpine draws. Do not underestimate the easier pitches. The entire climb is amazing and sustained. I disagree that the final pitch crux is reachy, I misread this crux because of that beta and took two falls, as soon as I stepped down and over, I got it easily. At the first, second and last pitch cruxes, step up, clip, step down, over and up (or skip the last bolt on the second pitch after making the move and clip for the follower.) This route is so well bo... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Twelve Pack Wall : The Crux of the Biscuit is ... (5.9)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: The book calls this 10a / 10d. It states 10a is if the roof is avoided to the right and 10d if you pull the roof by way of the arete with no cheating to the right.

That's Table for ya, a lot of climbs are cheatable, you just gotta will yourself to stay on the line.

I found the thin slab/face moves to the left of the bolts (10bish) to be very pleasurable. I went around the roof to the right and scoped out the holds and then when I was being lowered from the anchors, I tr'd the roof by using th... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Bucket Bronco (5.10a)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: There's plenty of good gear below the first bolt. Not much death. We led through the first section roof of Czech crack and then joined Bucket Bronco. This was a great combo and super protectable. Super fun, looong (for J-tree) and diverse climb.

Plus this is a trad (mixed) climb. Of course take gear.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Varnished Wall : Circle of Benevolence (5.10d)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Slinged horn is gone. We found a class 4 down climb right. Straight between bolts 1&2 felt like 11a.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Jumbo Rocks Corridor : Handsaw (5.10b)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: I think some holds may have broke off in the "mystery bolt" area. The beginning is tough and hard to protect. Clip the bolt!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihe... (5.10+)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: First 130' good 3 & 4 jamming (wide). Last two pitches on crummy rock and waaay harder than 10+. No way to bail from the top of the offwidth pitch. So unless you are comfortable on 11s, be prepared to aid the bolts to the top!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Quarry Wall Complex : ... : Moon Shadow (5.10)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: After climbing some Yosemite chimneys, maybe this is a ten but a hard one!!!!!!!! :-)


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Centerfold (5.10b)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: Great climbing. Stout for the grade. I have never been so runout, not a fan of that. Big fall potential. I think that having double ropes helped extremely with rope management. If you are pushing your grade, you may want to think a bit before attempting this runout climb!

PG-13


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Elephantiasis (5.10c)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Tougher than it looks, flaring jams. Wet start has tough moves and is intimidating.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Genesis (5.10a PG13)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Great route! Very bouldery. Harder if you are short. PG-13.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Irish Pride (5.10c/d)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Considerably harder if you are shorter. Other than being runout in areas and sometimes thru cruxy sections, the bolts are fine, bomber.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : F/S (5.10c)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Excellent route! A 60m rope works fine. I really enjoyed the entire climb including the upper section. Although it is lower quality rock, it is still .10 climbing and challenging as well, very fun, well protected, and stable enough.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Short, Cupped Hands (5.9+)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: No cut feet here. Nice route!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Red Canyon : Supercrack Buttress : Super Crack of the Monument (5.10)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jul 12, 2013

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Comments: Classic. 70m rope.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Quarry Wall Complex : ... : Moon Shadow (5.10)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: Mickey and I climbed both Lost Vikings and Moonshadow consecutively. Major difference in difficulty! Hardest "5.10" - I'll go along with that! Ringlocks in a flaring, featureless offwidth! Arghhh! We got worked!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Grit Wall : Grit Some (5.9+)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: Def. a tough start to a high bolt. Nice lil climb.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Quarry Wall Complex : ... : Lost Vikings (5.10)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: Awesome crack climb. fantastic jamming. The obvious ledge is a small one, I built an anchor there (bring a few extra #0.75 +/-) I used nearly the entire double rack with triples of 2 & 3.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mighty Mouse Wall
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: Thanks, Alex!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mighty Mouse Wall
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jun 26, 2013

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Comments: The large pullout was a little further than 1.8 in my car. From there, we walked up the road towards the wall passing one telephone pole and finding a weakness in the fence with a rock and the main trail heading up.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mighty Mouse Wall
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jun 26, 2013

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Comments: We got lost looking for a warmup on the lower wall. The trail for the left part of lower wall diverges left from the main trail below the Magna Mater Spire. We missed this and did some bushwhacking from the Magna Mater Spire. Once at the lower left wall, it seemed tough for us to reach the mid part of it, so we thought perhaps it could be accessed from a trail above...not the case. We went right of the Magna Mater Spire and up a well-cairned, steep talus that lead to Chimneying 101 and climbs to... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mighty Mouse Wall : ... : The Bleeps, Sweeps, and the... (5.10+)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jun 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Freaking awesome!

I used 2# 2s and some smaller stuff from 0.75 down to c3 sizes.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Beyer 1 (5.10-)
By: Ralph Swansen When: Jun 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Jesse, did you find my locking biner at the top bolt??? was the first one I ever bought.


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