Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Quinn Stevens


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 8, 2010
Contact Quinn Stevens


Point Rank: # 1,467
Total Points: 392
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
23 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Quinn Stevens been climbing?










Contributions


All (80) | Routes (17) | Areas (9) | Photos (13) | Comments (22) | Posts | Stars (18) | Ratings (1)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Public Solitude (5.13)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Oct 22, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Fantastic route that involves good balance and focus. This route is very unique from the rest of the wall, with continuous, deceptively difficult climbing. It seems like there's a few ways to do the final groove, but the crux boils down to some specific moves.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall
By: Quinn Stevens When: Dec 11, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Does anyone have any information about the 3? 5.13/project routes on the overhanging prow atop the mission wall? Not that I'm going to be getting on them anytime soon, but I was just curious.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders
By: Quinn Stevens When: Dec 17, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: The people I climb with and have met at Morrison recognize the area for what it is - a dirty grotto that gives you a chance to have a solid workout on real rock. For myself it's not too much different than a gym, but at least it's outside. Futher, you can climb comfortably at Morrison when it's practicly snowing. While many problems are contrived, last time I checked they have been recognized as such on this site. It's not like you dip shits are offering any new information.

I understand th... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Finger Prince (5.13a)
By: Quinn Stevens When: May 4, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Finger Prince is a great climb. To me, the name implied a climb that would be a lot more delicate than some of the grinding finger jambs allow. (There's a right hand finger jamb that could break something if you fell on it.) But as a whole, this route has a variety of cool, powerful moves that lead into sinker hand jams in the roof, adding up to 13a, whatever that means.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Apr 12, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Don't be tricked into thinking that the only way to finish the business on this route is to stick the long toss. A smaller, easier toss out right followed by a balancy move gets the job done - not necessarily easier, but higher percentage. There's also beta underclining left to a long reach - requires some wingspan.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : X-M (5.10c R)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Mar 23, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: If the first two pitches are lead together, then it is definately scarier and more dangerous to be on lead during the crux. I followed the pitch, thank god, and pulled the crux moves before cleaning the disturbing RP. I'm fairly confident that had I fallen during the crux, the rp would have kept me from the big swing. However, the above advice for the leader to reach back right, following the traverse, and placing something for the second is good. It's impressive to link pitches 1 and 2 toge... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Mar 15, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: What a phenomenal route - there's just something about the water carved slots that align across the wall to make this line. It's also pretty cool when you pass out, crouched in a fetal position, at the little alcove just above the hard climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Prince of Thieves (5.12b)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Mar 7, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Although I still feel this is the best route on the wall, in retrospect 3 stars may be a little much. Isn't as good as say, Tell-Tale Heart.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block : Battle's End (5.12c/d)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Feb 11, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: When I went up to try this route yesterday we hoped that either we would send it that day, or not like it enough to come back. Unfortunately I didn't send it and I liked it too much to stay away for too long. Battle's End is a superb route with memorable sequences. I'd love to watch someone onsight this. Too bad it involves such a horrible approach. I think the rating is perfect because, as you say Richard, there are no purely 12d sections. However, I feel the c/d rating is warranted as th... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : The New Pollution (5.12c)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Dec 12, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Upon re-reading my comment, I realized how stupid I sound. I think I meant to say something about the 'solid, continuous climbing...' particularly for such a short route. If this only continued for another 7 bolts or so it would be killer! Thanks to Gregg for such a good addition to the wall.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Big Dog (5.12a/b)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Dec 5, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: "A route that has modified holds, and then climbed free without using those modified holds, will not be classified as modified."

Sounds like this route's chipped page needs to be removed- especially because the natural beta is easier and IMO, more intuitive.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Twitch (5.12d)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Nov 12, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: When I was working this route last spring I developed a chronic muscle twitch in the index finger of my right hand. My finger twitched once every 10 seconds for three days. I'm just glad the route wasn't named Ball Buster, Brain Tumor, or after some heinous medical condition that only Nate would be aware of.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Left Wing (5.10c)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Aug 15, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: GB is right on in his comment about rests. Even though you get a juggy ledge before the second crux, the time you spend placing gear and looking at the undercling saps you. At the ledge, I put my left arm across the hold and as I remember it, I did an inverted (?) right foot knee drop in the vertical crack just below. Inverted meaning drop your knee as if you were sitting indian style, not the more common knee drop. Hug into the rock and the rest is great! Oftentimes sport climbing style ma... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Finger Prince (5.13a)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Aug 8, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I don't know Alan, 'far more technical' than Anarchitect sounds more like a warning than an invitation to check it out! ;-)


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : The New Pollution (5.12c)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Aug 2, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Today I finally bagged this route, my enemy for some time now. Very seldom will you find more solid, continuous climbing packed into one route. As aforementioned, a hold broke just above the second bolt. Here, I feel, is the technical crux- tossing from the crappy, right side pull to a small crimp sidepull with your left hand. I fell after making this move on redpoint three times, twice running out of gas with my hand an inch shy of the finishing jug. This is a 12c you can sink your teeth i... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Big Dog (5.12a/b)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Aug 1, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: BTW, there most certainly IS beta without the manufactured undercling pocket or the suspiciously smooth face pocket. I would agree with you, Alan, that Viagra Falls is solid 12c. Other good 12c's are Sucking at the Primo Wall, the Great Escape, and the New Polution (hard 12c). To me Big Dog seems easier than any of these. The holds are all positive and the rests are quite kind. I'll call it 12b. Perhaps it's a beta thing. Rolof. is pictured doing this route on the cover of the CC guide. ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Quinn Stevens When: Jul 27, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: This comment is in response to Richard Wright's comment on Skimbleshanks in the Catslab. I thought it might be appropriate to place this nature of a comment on the area pages. I confer with RW. Be careful when climbing at the Catslab, Dog House, Primo Wall, and especially the Armory. Some people seem to enjoy shooting their guns in this area. Last summer two of my friend's tires were shot out with a 22 pistol while parked across from the Primo Wall. This 'attack' was unprovoked and was rep... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab
By: Quinn Stevens When: Jul 27, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: This comment is in response to Richard Wright's comment on Skimbleshanks in the Catslab. I thought it might be appropriate to place this nature of a comment on the area pages. I confer with RW. Be carefull when climbing at the Catslab, Dog House, Primo Wall, and especially the Armory. Some people seem to enjoy shooting their guns in this area. Last summer two of my friend's tires were shot out with a 22 pistol while parked across from the Primo Wall. This 'attack' was unprovoked and was r... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Officer Friendly (5.11c)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Jul 12, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: As far as beta is concerned, I feel that the hardest way to do the crux is to immediately jam both hands into the crack, and then move up. Lately, I've been palming a sloper with my right hand, a foot or so right of the ledge jug. Get your feet up, move the left hand into the jam, and cross up through with your right hand to the upper jug. To me, this makes the crux feel just slightly harder than the rest of the route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Jul 12, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I've been climbing for 9 years, which for my age is not totally laughable. Before I sent TDD, the hardest previous route that I red pointed was 12a, a grade that I remained on for about four years. TDD took me only 5 or 6 tries over a few days. With regards to reference points, Tell Tale Heart in Boulder Canyon (12b) took me quite a bit longer. I still have not sent Twitch (12d) and have probably been to the rock on 5 separate occasions. I've been to Sonic Youth (13a) probably 10 times, sti... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Halle-Bop (5.10c)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Jul 12, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I think the grade I gave this was a typing error!?! 10c is fine, I'll fix it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Bad Girls Get Spanked (5.11)
By: Quinn Stevens When: Jul 9, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I don't think one could argue that traversing right to the crack undercling and sidepull is off. However, it's pretty fun and interesting to climb the majority of this route just left of the crack system.