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Slab traverse on Cooper-Kor, Bugaboos.


Member Since: Feb 10, 2009
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 4,540
Total Points: 86
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 252 | Routes | Areas | Photos 10 | Page Improvments | Comments 36 | Posts 38 | Stars 164 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Goode : North Buttress (5.9)
By: PumpkinEater When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: Great Sierra climb. Loose enough to make climbing below another party a bad idea but not "a ton of choss" by any means.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Graduate Cliff : The Graduate (5.10b)
By: PumpkinEater When: Mar 9, 2013

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Comments: Sweet route. Tons of smooth hand jams. If you're cragging in the area go do it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: PumpkinEater When: Mar 9, 2013

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Comments: Great climb. Steep. Varied. Word of caution on last pitch though(the OW): As you near the last 20' or so you'll find it helpful to stem/reach out for the wall right of the wide crack. A lot of this rock is fairly fragile and there are numerous missiles waiting to launch. Your partner is safe because the pitch heads up and left but any parties below would be sitting targets. Have fun!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : North Dome : Crest Jewel (and Crest Jewe... (5.10d R) : Photo
By: PumpkinEater When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: The belay is right above that lip on the left.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : North Dome : Crest Jewel (and Crest Jewe... (5.10d R)
By: PumpkinEater When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: I think adding an "R" to this route is totally fair. Okay, so all the crux moves are essentially well protected, and if you're a pretty good slab climber in the ~.10 range on granite than you have nothing to worry about and will love the climb. But, honestly folks, 1 bolt in > 100 ft of climbing even if it is ~5.7 is, well, run out. There are plenty of opportunities for someone, particularly with little slab experience, to get injured on this route. That being said, it's a great day... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : East Face : Cromagnon (5.10a)
By: PumpkinEater When: Sep 3, 2011

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Comments: Maybe it was the tiring six day backpack my girlfriend and I completed the day before but this thing had me pumped out of my mind! Incredible little climb though.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Photo
By: PumpkinEater When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: One of the best pitches on the planet.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Photo
By: PumpkinEater When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: This is one of the best pitches I've ever climbed.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Humphreys : East Arete (5.4)
By: PumpkinEater When: Jul 2, 2011

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Comments: If you're planning on doing this route in the next few weeks, bring an ice axe for the descent gully.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk
By: PumpkinEater When: Jun 21, 2011

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Comments: I second the previous remark. The Hulk good to go? I'm mainly wondering about the descent.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : Bastille Buttress - Beckey ... (5.10d A0) : Photo
By: PumpkinEater When: Jun 2, 2011

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Comments: Tell me it's not as steep as it looks...


Location: Ben Logan : Patagonia : Photo
By: PumpkinEater When: May 7, 2011

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Comments: Nice.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Sheila (5.10a)
By: PumpkinEater When: Aug 17, 2010

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Comments: I would suggest carrying the 6" piece to protect the crux layback if, like me, you're trad lead limit is at around 5.10. I thought the layback was pretty committing and a fall would, it seemed to me, smash you back into the dihedral below. Pneumothorax anybody? On the bright side, at the top of the layback there's a jug and spot where you can literally straddle a pillar and have a seat!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Lucky Streaks (5.10c/d)
By: PumpkinEater When: Aug 17, 2010

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Comments: This route is, as I'd heard several times from other climbers, pretty sustained 5.9 with some short 5.10. Don't expect much in the way of cruising jug hauls anywhere on the route. As a result, I was pretty gassed climbing the crack on last (5.8) pitch!

Fyi: There's that option of going 2 ways on pitch 5. My partner led the undercling left which, though scary-looking, wasn't too bad. It also seemed possible to "step-down" earlier from the undercling as ST suggests and use some knobs to acces... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : West Face (5.10a)
By: PumpkinEater When: Aug 16, 2010

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Comments: This is an awesome route! Great views, great climbing and quick approach.

Note: it's quite easy to miss the traverse left on big holds at the end of the last pitch by mistakenly making a few 5.9 moves up a clean corner finger crack. If you do this, you'll be at the base of a 5.10ish OW right slanting crack on your left. My partner and I mistakenly ended up here but, rather than top out, we down-climbed a little to get back on route. If you do go up the OW, it will be possible to downclimb ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : The Whale : Bony Fingers (5.11b R)
By: PumpkinEater When: Aug 2, 2010

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Comments: For those who, like me, don't lead .11b face at the Portal, it's very easy to A0 the 3 bolts at the beginning and skip right to dessert. I tried the girth-hitched stoppers suggestion from other users and it seemed to work well though it's hard to see how good of a placement it is.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Bear Creek Spire
By: PumpkinEater When: Jul 23, 2010

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Comments: The story of Rowell jumping on his stashed road bike after doing a solo FA of the S. Face of Bear Creek is one of the most inspiring pieces of Sierra-lore there is. Very cool.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Dana Plateau : Third Pillar, Regular Route (5.10a)
By: PumpkinEater When: Jul 23, 2010

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Comments: I'd say that the move up to the "pin" on pitch 4 (just past the cool layback finger crack on the left side of that crazy looking flake) is pretty sketchy. I took a good 5 minutes thinking it over. If you fall stepping up to clip the pin you're f#$%ed. Funny side note (if you're over 6'3" you can step up on your toes and place a yellow C3 high and left in a small slot to protect the move.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Daff Dome, Main Area : Blown Away (5.9 PG13)
By: PumpkinEater When: Jul 23, 2010

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Comments: A big pendulum fall awaits the follower after the last bolt before the 3rd belay. You can place a green C4 (I used a red Link cam about halfway contracted) in a horizontal slanting rounded-edged crack. This makes things much safer for the follower.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Cooper-Kor (5.10+ R)
By: PumpkinEater When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: Awesome position but just "ok" climbing (i.e. the route is a big zig-zag, wet in places, etc.)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Diarrhea Dome : Bighorn Mating Grotto : Dangling Woo Li Master (5.10a)
By: PumpkinEater When: May 24, 2010

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Comments: More unique than a lot of climbs in JT. If you're clever you get 3 (!) no hands rests. Find them and you are....a dangling woo-li master. Hint: one involves sitting on a ledge facing out! coooool.


Location: Red Rocks Threatened by Mas...
By: PumpkinEater When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: I love that "Rhodes" and "Krater" are the names of the the developer and planner, respectively.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Russell : Star Trekkin' (5.10b/c)
By: PumpkinEater When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: There are options. You can actually bypass the crux by traversing left into the crack using a knobby bulge for feet (no harder than .9). About 2/3 of the way up the face you can traverse into Mithral and, if I remember right, climb that route's last 40ft or so. If you have only one day on the mountain, I think Mithral is a much cooler climb.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Fear of Flying (5.9)
By: PumpkinEater When: Jun 24, 2009

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Comments: .10a in my opinion. Either that or I was tired, or my shoes were too loose, or I was dehydrated, or my trick shoulder was acting up.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Candyland (5.10c)
By: PumpkinEater When: Jun 24, 2009

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Comments: This route gave me that "Holy @#$%!" feeling I only get on truly great routes. Five stars!


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