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Member Since: Jul 27, 2010
Last Visit: Jul 17, 2013
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Point Rank: # 1,210
Total Points: 523
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has PTZ been climbing?










Contributions


All 318 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 98 | Page Improvements | Comments 23 | Posts 159 | Stars 35 | Ratings 2

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Gollum's Cave
By: PTZ When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: We had some tourists throwing rocks down here that landed a few feet from us. Always have your guard up.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : East Side : ... : Electric Butterfly (5.8)
By: PTZ When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: It is a good toprope of you climb straight up. It's stiffer but the plumb line. Otherwise, you climb the back wet corner and can go for a bad swing if you fall out. This was one of my first few gear leads.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Black Beauty (5.10+)
By: PTZ When: Feb 28, 2012

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Comments: Great climb with great movement. I agree that the pro is tough on the middle of the climb. This is a great Toprope, if you don't want the pucker factor. Great second pitch hand crack. Worth getting on in any style you choose.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Ride The Snake (5.11a)
By: PTZ When: Jan 25, 2012

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Comments: This route left a real bad taste in my mouth. I found it very hard to read.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia : Creature Feature (5.9)
By: PTZ When: Jan 9, 2012

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Comments: Has anyone short done this. I thought it was reachy and i am 5'11".
Fun route. I swear there is dino tracks in the upper section.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : NoName 6.7 (5.11d)
By: PTZ When: Mar 21, 2011

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Comments: Great route. Tricky sequence and short, but a good little ditty. Connect this and the bolted crack for a sweet 11+/12a.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Shark's Tooth (aka NoName 0... (5.10c)
By: PTZ When: Mar 21, 2011

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Comments: This route is traditionally known as Shark's Tooth. You get a sweet, little triangle hold that you walk your feet up on for the bulge section. Some people say this is the crux, shorter people say it is the second to third bolt sequence, both are cruxy.


Location: PTZ : Photo : Photo
By: PTZ When: Mar 15, 2011

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Comments: This product does actually exist. You have to live in the boonies to find it. I saw it in a cabinet while I was putting in a floor for a good ole' southerner. It also makes me want to vomit.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Gallery : 27 Years of Climbing (5.8)
By: PTZ When: Mar 2, 2011

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Comments: Routes like this keep you coming back. Pure pleasure. Just fun stuff provided by nature and a guy with a hammerdrill.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : James Brown's Wild Ride (5.12a)
By: PTZ When: Jan 31, 2011

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Comments: I consider it like Rumor has its big brother. A bit harder with a little more finesse. Great thinker's route. You will not have to line up for a ride on this one.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Bloody Corner (5.10c R)
By: PTZ When: Jan 28, 2011

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Comments: I believe that Maurie and Phil put this up. Interesting route. Very different for Rifle.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : Redstone Area : Redstone Boulders : Stein Boulder : Slopenstein (V6)
By: PTZ When: Jan 20, 2011

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Comments: The problems on this side of the block are very temperature-dependent. You need to hit these as the sun is going down unless it is very cool out. Otherwise, you are just like a monkey trying to hump a doorknob.
I know people that are tall and have a terrible time on this sloping rail.
P.S. Don't use the boulder on top to top out. It is a coffee table-like boulder that gives pinch grip making it easier top out. Or use it, I don't care.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Rupture - V5-V7 (V? R)
By: PTZ When: Dec 7, 2010

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Comments: This problem has one of the best slopers I've ever felt. A perfect little cereal bowl upside down. I wouldn't see it harder than what is says V5-V7. Awesome hidden gem for the under traveled Mo. South.


Location: General Climbing : To backclip or not to backc... : Photo
By: PTZ When: Nov 19, 2010

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Comments: Hate to say it, but it looks like it is backclipped. Nobodies perfect.As long as there was no blood = no foul. The rope always runs away from the rock out to you on the clips.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : The Boulders
By: PTZ When: Oct 28, 2010

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Comments: Traditionally the large boulder is the Wisdom Tooth and the smaller bolder is the Molar Boulder.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux
By: PTZ When: Oct 27, 2010

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Comments: On the Two Moon Buttress, there is a route missing. The center route up the center of the wall. Ten or eleven bolts of good climbing out a roof 20 feet right of the big flake. It's Pete Heck's route in 1992 maybe. Seeking Clarity is the title. It was like 10c and has broken down to about 11a/b. The bulge is the business with some cool moves then up the sustained wall. 60 meter rope recommended. Please add it to the roster. Thanks


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Stay True (aka NoName 3) (5.11d)
By: PTZ When: Oct 7, 2010

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Comments: This route was put up by Jim Dinopoly? in 2000ish. Great rock, you wish there was 100 feet more of that sweet, juicy stone.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Pass the Ditchie (5.9)
By: PTZ When: Oct 7, 2010

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Comments: Charlie Moore and I put this route up in 2005. It is called "Pass the Ditchie". A lot of rock came out of that crack area on the cleaning of this route. The Piton was there since I started climbing there, a Kor piece maybe. I hope it is enjoyed. Mike thanks for replacing the bolt. I need to contact Dave Pegg about this and a few other Puoux corrections and additions for the next guide.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Main Wall : Urban Cowboy (5.12a)
By: PTZ When: Oct 7, 2010

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Comments: That is good to hear. It is a great route and one of my favorites. Great route for training laps or your entrance into harder leading. The lip can be done a number of ways, with a knee jam or w/o, everyone climbs it different.


Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Big Gypsum - Dolores : Psycho Tower : Psycho-Path (5.9+)
By: PTZ When: Sep 14, 2010

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Comments: Not your average desert tower. Good, little outing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8) : Photo
By: PTZ When: Aug 12, 2010

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Comments: Great route. Good fun with fewer crowds. It can get hot during the morning. 1st pitch is awesome.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon
By: PTZ When: Aug 10, 2010

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Comments: There is only one established route up it in the guide. There may be more now. It is like 10+ with some clean aid. Right up the gut. You can see the crack system it goes up. Never done it but looks good.
Like all routes in the canyon in the 10+ range, it will be thought provoking. There is potential there for new routes there I'm sure.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Jaws Boulder : Jaws (V3)
By: PTZ When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: On of the best boulders on The Pass. Crisp solid edges. It's all there, just sack up and stick it, full confidence. Once you do it you want to keep running laps on it, because it is so sick!. You feel stupid for doubting yourself. Climb when conditions are cool and you are ready, not a day before. This is the send for The Pass.