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 ADVANCED
at the belay on the super classic rewritten


Member Since: Jan 21, 2009
Last Visit: Jul 23, 2014
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Point Rank: # 4,427
Total Points: 88
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4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has proto been climbing?










Contributions


All 135 | Routes 4 | Areas 1 | Photos 5 | Page Improvments | Comments 8 | Posts 26 | Stars 48 | Ratings 43

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : The British Were Coming (5.9 PG13)
By: proto When: Nov 19, 2011

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Comments: Stef and I finally climbed this route last summer. It's a great outing with an alpine feeling. Route finding and protections make the route interesting. The rock is generally good. We found that the crux was the small roof near the end of the third pitch. That section does not correspond to the description given by Sykes in "Secrets of the Notch" although we followed the easier path (may be this part was affected by rockfall). Although not for the budding 5.8 leader, this route would deserve to ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: proto When: Dec 7, 2009

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Comments: Climbed AMU today (12/7/09). We had to break the trail from Mill's Lake to the base of the route. Pitch one was thin but easy. Pitch two had very little ice but was a nice mixed pitch. Pitch 3 had little ice as well (somewhat easier mixed than P2). Pitch 4 had good ice (thin near the top).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Sands of Iwo Jima (5.11c/d)
By: proto When: Oct 6, 2009

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Comments: Very nice even if it is also very short.
I agree, not an easy one to onsight although there is no very hard move.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Bihedral Arete (5.10a)
By: proto When: Oct 6, 2009

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Comments: Led it today. I used a 0.4 on the first pitch and a 0.5 C4 on the second. Nice route very well protected. You don't need 12 QD as stated in the book, 7 QD and 2 runners are enough.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : North Face (5.7)
By: proto When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: Stephanie and I climbed it after camping at Crater Lake. The description of MP is better than that of the guidebook. Overall, finding the line is not a problem: follow the most obvious one. We kept the hiking boots all the way up, which is the good solution, don't bother carrying climbing shoes. The descent via Solo Flight is quite obvious as well, provided you know that you mustn't take the first deep gully. No rope needed for the descent.
Nice alpine route in a remote location.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Elder Cleavage Direct (5.10b)
By: proto When: Jun 5, 2009

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Comments: I led the first pitch last Sunday but it was too late to finish the route. So I've described the first pitch only ...
It's definitely a nice one.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Gelsa (5.4)
By: proto When: Jun 2, 2009

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Comments: I inadvertently did a 5.10R "variation" going strait to the first good ledge with a tree. Apparently not climbed very often ...
Second pitch is incredibly steep for the grade but is really only 5.4


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: proto When: May 18, 2009

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Comments: Stef and I did Kiener's yesterday (5/17/09) in just over 15h car to car. It's in full conditions. Broadway is full of snow as is the rest of the route, including the 3 pitches above Broadway. We kept the crampons from the base of Lamb's Slide all the way up to the summit and then all the way down to Boulderfield. The snow was quite soft on Broadway and Kiener's although we started early. The descent via the North face is also full of snow, but of rather good quality even in the afternoon. There ... more >>