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Chillin' at City of Rocks


Member Since: May 22, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,503
Total Points: 408
Last Year: 71
Last 30 Days: 2
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Princess Mia been climbing?










Contributions


All 1025 | Routes | Areas | Photos 65 | Page Improvements | Comments 83 | Posts 681 | Stars 134 | Ratings 62
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Argon Tower
By: Princess Mia When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: Super fun, super sandy, super chossy, super scary!!! A true entrada sandstone tower.

Warning!!!!!! the top pitch is super X-rated. Someone needs to replace the old star driven bolt that is hanging out 3/4 of an inch (and it is the only pro on the pitch). A fall on this uber sandy friction slab would have deadly consequences. The summit could use one more bolt as well. There is one good one right now and three totally pulled out star driven old manky bolts.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Hassler's Hatbox : Lucille (5.12d) : Photo
By: Princess Mia When: Apr 18, 2012

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Comments: Pamela is one of the best offwidth climbers out there and a master at inverts. She is a true inspiration to us chicks who love it wide. Lucille is such a badass climb and one I can only dream about climbing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Meow Mix (5.10+)
By: Princess Mia When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: Such a classic long climb. One of my favorite creek climbs. It truly is 180 feet of continuous climbing. The pod was probably the crux for me. The rest just stellar. Climbing it as one long pitch with one rope works fine. Just bring a few long slings. If you don't want to go the distance with all the gear I reckon you could stop at the sloping ledge and build a bomber anchor. But hey, the real deal is all 180 feet all at one!!!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed
By: Princess Mia When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: Spring break in Colorado. The ice is fat and beautiful and there are no people. I live ice climbing this time of the year. Vail ice is glorious. Did the Designator last night. Super fat and sticky but not wet at all. The Thang is huge, as is the Spiral Stairs area.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed)
By: Princess Mia When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: Spent the weekend in Ouray. One day at Camp Bird Road- extremely wet but fun. Did Tourist Trap and Heart of Darkmess. The ice on TT was super fun and the traverse super wet. There are two pitons and a couple of TCUs can be placed. Both Skylight and Choppos looked too wet to be safely climbed. Water is flowing hard.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: This is probably one of the best routes I have ever done in my life. So long, and so sustained, .75 and #1 cams forever.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Warm-Up Handcrack (5.10)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: Super awesome!!! Well worth the long hike.......


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : East Vail Falls area
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: Well... I wouldn't say it has been "incorrectly" called Pitkin Falls.

In fact, it has been called Pitkin Falls since at least the late '80s. Of course, this should not to be confused with Pitkin Creek Falls, which is something completely different!!!
Now, this ice flow is NOT part of Pitkin Creek but instead faces Pitkin Creek and is located above where Pitkin Creek enters Gore Creek, hence the name. Sort of like Firehouse is located above the firehouse, and Racquet Club is located above the ra... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Firehouse Area : The West of The East (WI2)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: This is the main flow/gully at east Firehouse. Historically this has always been called "The West of The East".


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Firehouse Area : The East of The West (WI2)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: This is really the main big fat ice flow/gully at west Firehouse. Historically it has always been called "The East of The West" and is usually only WI 2. If choosing the right side of the climb, it could be WI 3.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Between the Bridges : Grandma's Glass Pony Shop (WI5 R)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 2, 2012

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Comments: Excellent, long, and sustained climbing. It is much longer than 120 feet, meaning a 70 meter rope doesn't even come close to working for a rap rope. My guess it is about 45 meters long as we used a 50 m rope and not much was left after topping out.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Dragon's Tongue (WI5+ M7 PG13)
By: Princess Mia When: Jan 31, 2012

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Comments: Good route with some mind boggling and fun moves. Much easier after knowing where to go (not so apparent in the beginning).
Spicy getting to the first clip, and then the next two bolts are spaced a bit far apart. I agree with PG13.
The ice is much harder than it looks, and by the time you get to ice fat enough to place a screw, well then you are pretty much at the anchor. So exciting finish.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Tourette's (WI4- M6)
By: Princess Mia When: Jan 31, 2012

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Comments: It is nice to have new bolts. Thanx!

One comment, it is pretty cruxy getting to the second bolt, and if falling there, a grounder is possible and for sure the belayer will get totally skewered by the leader's poons. I say be very, very careful and attentive there.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Titties 'n' Beer (WI5- M7)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 27, 2011

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Comments: Another typical male description of a climb....
Well, you should know what us girls wish for....


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Public Masturbation (M8)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 27, 2011

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Comments: We just climbed PM yesterday. It is in great condition with a fun, overhanging, mixed start, then on to the ice over the roof, and then the oh so delicate finish.

We actually don't know if it is M8. It is significantly harder than Secret Probation (by a lot). The top is so thin and delicate. The roof is easier for short people, and the top "friction slab" seems easier for tall people. It would be cool to get a better rating consensus from the climbing community.

And by the way, it is 5 bolts... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Secret Probation (WI5 M6-7)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: Just climbed SP today, and it was super fun. For a shortie like me, several dry-tooling moves are necessary before reaching the ice. I couldn't stick the ice until after the first bolt and just before the second. There is ice to the left, providing a nice rest before stepping over to the right. The top is just super fun climbing.

IMHO, if the route was like it used to be back in the early '90s, i.e. no holes in the soft limestone from many climbs, well then it would be a lot harder. But hey, th... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Log-Jammin' (WI3-4 M4-5 R)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: Super fun route either way you start. No anchor tree at the top any more so one must do the overhanging dirt finish to a huge tree above. Very cool and fun. Currently (December 2011) three or so very short screws can be placed for pro.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Public Masturbation (M8)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 1, 2011

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Comments: This is a fun mixed route with a couple of interesting moves in the middle and a very delicate finish. It was put up by Dave Tucholke, and the name is Public Masturbation,

Hey Griz - a slight misspelling on the name...lol.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Block Tower : Hurt Dance (5.10-)
By: Princess Mia When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: Super fun and excellent quality climbing.

There are several ways to get to the base, none of which looked worthy, so we did the 3rd class scramble up from the left to the big ledge with lots of bushes, immediately below a very interesting juniper that appear to be attached to nothing on the face above.
P1: a short but super fun OW (5.7?) protects with a #6 leads to a super fun finger to hand crack (5.9?) and to a two bolt anchor at a stance.

P2: hands to OW (a #5 and #6 cam ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : The Meat Cleaver (5.10+)
By: Princess Mia When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: Well, I completely disagree that this route is rotten!!! Except for the approach pitch, it is excellent.

The approach pitch really is about 200 feet plus of 4th class scrambling with a few 5th class moves. Roping up is not a bad idea. Belay below the "cleaver" on a huge ledge.

P1: climb up the easy dihedral (probably 5.7-5.8) that actually does protect with a few pieces. Yes there is some vegetation in the crack but it can easily be negotiated. A #3 or 3.5 Camalot protects very nicely ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Hoop Dancer (5.11 X)
By: Princess Mia When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: Eggdrop to Hoop Dancer is a great linkup, and it avoids that first 5.9 pitch. The slightly overhanging #2 camalot crack at the crux is stunning but on the big side of #2 (cupped hands for me). Dont place a #2 at the corner or you will risk loosing it as the rope will push it inward. In fact, if you have two nut tools and skinny arms you can score yourself a brand new #2 that has walked in a bit.

The thin hands section at the beginning is glorious!!!

The raps are horrid... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Wild Flower (5.10a)
By: Princess Mia When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: Excellent route!
P1 is 5.9, but I leaving the sandy ledge half way up and climbing past the bolt has some pucker factor especially if one is short, as a few sandy moves are required before clipping the bolt, and the last available pro is below the ledge.
P2 is pretty straight forward 5.10a. Easy jamming and a few fun little moves.
P3 is absolutely wonderful. The initial stemming/chimney/squeeze is easy and protects well with a #4.5. Then there are two bolts before the final squeeze/OW (cru... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Idiot Wind (5.10c)
By: Princess Mia When: Aug 22, 2011

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Comments: We just climbed this exciting route on Sunday. The excitement factor was greatly enhanced as a major rain storm moved in (faster than normal?) when climbing the second traverse pitch (P4). The waterfall coming off the second roof onto this pitch was a bit nervewrecking.

General info: comfy belay on top of P1 but no bolts. Nice bolts on top of P2. The crux pitch has one old and nasty "button head" and one old 1/4 inch bolt. Both could use replacement. At least there is some protection options i... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Pornographic Motions (5.10- PG13)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: Exciting and spicy!!!! But with new bolts. 5.10 rating is appropriate. Another South Platte classic!!!! Deserves many stars.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: SUPER CLASSIC OW!!!!!

Prairie Dog Crematorium. I think the name says it all. It is the leftmost route on the south side of the Dome. Very obvious if one hikes up and over the pass to the left of the east routes, down the other side for a few hundred yards and there it is on the right. A big, ugly, nasty, and sooooo beautiful OW!!!

The old guidebooks are not very clear in the pics, and it may be easy to think the route is the dihedral to the right. But no, that one is only 5.9. Prairie Dog Crem... more >>


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