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Chillin' at City of Rocks


Member Since: May 22, 2006
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,347
Total Points: 463
Last Year: 109
Last 30 Days: 54
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Princess Mia been climbing?










Contributions


All 1067 | Routes | Areas | Photos 75 | Page Improvements | Comments 88 | Posts 688 | Stars 146 | Ratings 70
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Nurse Rachet (5.11-)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Excellent route but it felt like 5.10 to me. Maybe as I am small. I surely was fighting the whole way up. Also it is BD 3.5 forever. Too big for BD 3 and too small for new #4. Perfect fists for me but it did work me over.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Great trail! Thanx!!!

The road to the trail requires 4x4 and high clearance. I wouldn't take an Escape, Forrester, CR-V etc up the road. It is way too steep and rough. Yes the section is pretty short but still. We parked at the obvious flat parking area before the rough spot. Then hoofed it for a mile across the desert. A mtn bike would have been nice. The new trail is at the extreme left side of the cliff.

Now I must admit, after climbing on the right side of the cliff and looking straight d... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Orion's Bow (5.10 R)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Super fun and absolutely a classic! Yes this is not what you expect at the creek but the total opposite. Three pitches of exciting friction. Not very hard but R rated. Pitch one follows easy seam and then you must build your own stopper anchor, but at a good stance. Second pitch has some fun exposure down the right side, leads to pretty good anchor (but bring extra webbing in case), the last pitch wanders left up some crazy and sandy rock. A few old bolts and very runout. Rap to top of P2 and th... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Android Waffle Hot Line (5.10b)
By: Princess Mia When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: Super fun!!! Big and meaty forever!!!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Gunsmoke (5.11a)
By: Princess Mia When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: Well having small hands made this route a royal nightmare for me. Way harder than most 11a. The start was fists that tried to spit me out, then it was rattely cupped hands forever. Finally towards the top of the splitter I got one descent hand jam. The top was easy, jam straight in and use abundant feet on the right face.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Argon Tower
By: Princess Mia When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: Super fun, super sandy, super chossy, super scary!!! A true entrada sandstone tower.

Warning!!!!!! the top pitch is super X-rated. Someone needs to replace the old star driven bolt that is hanging out 3/4 of an inch (and it is the only pro on the pitch). A fall on this uber sandy friction slab would have deadly consequences. The summit could use one more bolt as well. There is one good one right now and three totally pulled out star driven old manky bolts.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Hassler's Hatbox : Lucille (5.12d) : Photo
By: Princess Mia When: Apr 18, 2012

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Comments: Pamela is one of the best offwidth climbers out there and a master at inverts. She is a true inspiration to us chicks who love it wide. Lucille is such a badass climb and one I can only dream about climbing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Meow Mix (5.10+)
By: Princess Mia When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: Such a classic long climb. One of my favorite creek climbs. It truly is 180 feet of continuous climbing. The pod was probably the crux for me. The rest just stellar. Climbing it as one long pitch with one rope works fine. Just bring a few long slings. If you don't want to go the distance with all the gear I reckon you could stop at the sloping ledge and build a bomber anchor. But hey, the real deal is all 180 feet all at one!!!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed
By: Princess Mia When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: Spring break in Colorado. The ice is fat and beautiful and there are no people. I live ice climbing this time of the year. Vail ice is glorious. Did the Designator last night. Super fat and sticky but not wet at all. The Thang is huge, as is the Spiral Stairs area.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed)
By: Princess Mia When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: Spent the weekend in Ouray. One day at Camp Bird Road- extremely wet but fun. Did Tourist Trap and Heart of Darkmess. The ice on TT was super fun and the traverse super wet. There are two pitons and a couple of TCUs can be placed. Both Skylight and Choppos looked too wet to be safely climbed. Water is flowing hard.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: This is probably one of the best routes I have ever done in my life. So long, and so sustained, .75 and #1 cams forever.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Warm-Up Handcrack (5.10)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: Super awesome!!! Well worth the long hike.......


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : East Vail Falls area
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: Well... I wouldn't say it has been "incorrectly" called Pitkin Falls.

In fact, it has been called Pitkin Falls since at least the late '80s. Of course, this should not to be confused with Pitkin Creek Falls, which is something completely different!!!
Now, this ice flow is NOT part of Pitkin Creek but instead faces Pitkin Creek and is located above where Pitkin Creek enters Gore Creek, hence the name. Sort of like Firehouse is located above the firehouse, and Racquet Club is located above the ra... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Firehouse Area : The West of The East (WI2)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: This is the main flow/gully at east Firehouse. Historically this has always been called "The West of The East".


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Firehouse Area : The East of The West (WI2)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: This is really the main big fat ice flow/gully at west Firehouse. Historically it has always been called "The East of The West" and is usually only WI 2. If choosing the right side of the climb, it could be WI 3.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Between the Bridges : Grandma's Glass Pony Shop (WI5 R)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 2, 2012

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Comments: Excellent, long, and sustained climbing. It is much longer than 120 feet, meaning a 70 meter rope doesn't even come close to working for a rap rope. My guess it is about 45 meters long as we used a 50 m rope and not much was left after topping out.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Dragon's Tongue (WI5+ M7 PG13)
By: Princess Mia When: Jan 31, 2012

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Comments: Good route with some mind boggling and fun moves. Much easier after knowing where to go (not so apparent in the beginning).
Spicy getting to the first clip, and then the next two bolts are spaced a bit far apart. I agree with PG13.
The ice is much harder than it looks, and by the time you get to ice fat enough to place a screw, well then you are pretty much at the anchor. So exciting finish.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Tourette's (WI4- M6)
By: Princess Mia When: Jan 31, 2012

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Comments: It is nice to have new bolts. Thanx!

One comment, it is pretty cruxy getting to the second bolt, and if falling there, a grounder is possible and for sure the belayer will get totally skewered by the leader's poons. I say be very, very careful and attentive there.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Titties 'n' Beer (WI5- M7)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 27, 2011

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Comments: Another typical male description of a climb....
Well, you should know what us girls wish for....


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Public Masturbation (M8)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 27, 2011

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Comments: We just climbed PM yesterday. It is in great condition with a fun, overhanging, mixed start, then on to the ice over the roof, and then the oh so delicate finish.

We actually don't know if it is M8. It is significantly harder than Secret Probation (by a lot). The top is so thin and delicate. The roof is easier for short people, and the top "friction slab" seems easier for tall people. It would be cool to get a better rating consensus from the climbing community.

And by the way, it is 5 bolts... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Secret Probation (WI5 M6-7)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: Just climbed SP today, and it was super fun. For a shortie like me, several dry-tooling moves are necessary before reaching the ice. I couldn't stick the ice until after the first bolt and just before the second. There is ice to the left, providing a nice rest before stepping over to the right. The top is just super fun climbing.

IMHO, if the route was like it used to be back in the early '90s, i.e. no holes in the soft limestone from many climbs, well then it would be a lot harder. But hey, th... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Log-Jammin' (WI3-4 M4-5 R)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: Super fun route either way you start. No anchor tree at the top any more so one must do the overhanging dirt finish to a huge tree above. Very cool and fun. Currently (December 2011) three or so very short screws can be placed for pro.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Public Masturbation (M8)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 1, 2011

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Comments: This is a fun mixed route with a couple of interesting moves in the middle and a very delicate finish. It was put up by Dave Tucholke, and the name is Public Masturbation,

Hey Griz - a slight misspelling on the name...lol.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Block Tower : Hurt Dance (5.10-)
By: Princess Mia When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: Super fun and excellent quality climbing.

There are several ways to get to the base, none of which looked worthy, so we did the 3rd class scramble up from the left to the big ledge with lots of bushes, immediately below a very interesting juniper that appear to be attached to nothing on the face above.
P1: a short but super fun OW (5.7?) protects with a #6 leads to a super fun finger to hand crack (5.9?) and to a two bolt anchor at a stance.

P2: hands to OW (a #5 and #6 cam ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : The Meat Cleaver (5.10+)
By: Princess Mia When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: Well, I completely disagree that this route is rotten!!! Except for the approach pitch, it is excellent.

The approach pitch really is about 200 feet plus of 4th class scrambling with a few 5th class moves. Roping up is not a bad idea. Belay below the "cleaver" on a huge ledge.

P1: climb up the easy dihedral (probably 5.7-5.8) that actually does protect with a few pieces. Yes there is some vegetation in the crack but it can easily be negotiated. A #3 or 3.5 Camalot protects very nicely ... more >>


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