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Chillin' at City of Rocks


Member Since: May 22, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,206
Total Points: 529
Last Year: 154
Last 30 Days: 116
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Princess Mia been climbing?










Contributions


All 1104 | Routes | Areas | Photos 88 | Page Improvements | Comments 89 | Posts 702 | Stars 152 | Ratings 73
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Thor Wall : Mediasa (5.9+)
By: Princess Mia When: Oct 17, 2012

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Comments: Actually the bolts are solid. They are fat and long and the rock surface was cleaned well prior to installation. I was there when they were put in, so I did notice that.
Great route! Bring a couple of BD #3 and #4 for the top. Nice and wide.


Location: Princess Mia : Vedauwoo : Photo
By: Princess Mia When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: Yeah that was quite the camping adventure........ went back to the Voo a couple of weeks ago but spent the whole time at Blair....... no people!

Hope to head for the Creek in the end of October........with everyone else in the world it seems..... Did you get 100 FA yet?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a)
By: Princess Mia When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: Did anyone ever rebolt this one? I would be more than willing to contribute to the bolting fund. I sure would love to do the Solar Slab/Chicken Lips adventure day!!!! But not until rebooted.....


Location: CO : Bent Gate is hiring in Gold...
By: Princess Mia When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: Bent Gate is a great place to work, with awesome people, and yeah they do have the gear...which of course is a bonus.....


Location: Princess Mia : Ice Climbing : Photo
By: Princess Mia When: Jul 19, 2012

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Comments: Gotta love the Teva Wall!!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : Little John's Tower : Baobab Tree (5.8)
By: Princess Mia When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: Great route. The top is classic but big fists for me. Extra BD#3.5 came in handy. I was working pretty hard up there..... LOL

I did some sort of slither traverse.......super fun!!!

A 70m rope worked great for the rap with lots of extra. It seems as a 60m would be fine too, but I just don't see a 50m...... but I could be wrong......


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : North Corner : SS Maywood (5.10)
By: Princess Mia When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: If you have a 70 m rope you can rap to the ground, no problem!!! The ends just reach the ground so know your middle.......

I say 3 BD#2 and a bunch of BD#3, BD#4 and one BD#4.5. There is really only one place for the latter.....

It does go down to BD#3 at the top.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : John's Tower : Yellow Belly (5.10b)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: Well the old guidebook says 5.10c and the new says 5.10d. All I can say it is not 5.10b, and the second pitch is awesome and may look mangy, but the climbing is not and it sure isn't 5.9 either. The going rating is 5.10-ish.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Unknown 5.8 (5.8 R)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, I think pitch one of Let Me Cry is the crack immediately to the left of Two Jews. It looks like an awesome line, but it is full of bushes. If cleaned, it would surely increase in popularity.
The unnamed 5.8 is pretty fun but is very spicy between bolts one and two. The anchor is fine. We replaced the webbing and left a biner.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Asshole Rock : Cardiac Crack (5.9+)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: Super route with great rests; hence I can't say it is sustained. I'm sure the crux is different for everyone. For me, it was the finger crack getting off the ground. The roof/ow/chimney looking thing is daunting but not hard. A BD #5 protects that move if you want to haul one up there. The rest of the route is pretty straightforward. The upper section eats gear, a few #4 may come in handy.
I agree with the 9+ rating except the start felt more like 10 for me. But maybe caus... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall : Finger Fun (5.10)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: This is a two pitch climb and it is accurately rated at 5.11!!!

Pitch one -- 35 meters -- 5.10 -- excellent finger crack. The beginning protects with two pitons and one can add a couple of purple TCUs. Many blue and yellow TCUs are needed. TCUs fit better than quad cams, but a couple of BD 0.3-0.4 are useful. Fat bolts with stainless steal rings at the anchor.

Pitch two -- 40 meters - 5.11 -- excellent finger crack, but it turns to tips in a couple of short sections, the rack from pitch one wo... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Tooth Fairy (5.11-)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: Relentless!!!!
Evil!!!
Grueling!!!!

Do I need to say more????

Absolutely amazing, sustained forever, many BD #5 (new style).......

The start wasn't too bad for me as I got great stacks, but further up the stacks turned really crappy....... The pod is fun, both getting into and out of......

A 70 meter rope works perfectly, but just, so pay attention!!!!

The ultimate climb for screaming barfies.......


Location: Mic Fairchild : a few pix : Photo
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: I love the tights...... exactly what I like to wear......


Location: Honnold Solos Triple Crown ...
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: Amazing!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Climb and Punishment (5.9)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Very awkward start and then pretty big and rattly hands for me...but hey I prefer BD #1.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Old Eyeful (5.6)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Super fun and what a surprise.... Great easy and very unique route!!!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.11+)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: It is kind of funny to look at the "com census" rating and so many folk saying it is 10a...well 99% of all only do the first pitch and yes it is 10a. But really... it is a three-pitch climb rated at 11+.

So, if you are not going to do all three pitches then you probably should not give the climb a grade.

Just saying....


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Gilman Canyon
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: The wastewater treatment plant is finished, but it is illegal to park at the pullout, and the sheriff does do a drive by every day. One can park along the road in a few places, but be aware of rockfall from above. The best parking is at the Klettergarden.

Also, the railroad tracks and the crags close to the tracks are owned by the railroad (go figure), and the crags further uphill from the tracks are owned by Ginn. It is all private property, but access has not been a problem, yet!!!!!


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Wolcott Crags and Boulders : The First Tier
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: IMPORTANT!!!!!
Please note that both crags here (the lower being Tressel Rock and the higher being the CMC Crag) are on private land!!!!! It is clearly posted, and the owner does NOT want any climbers on his property.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Concepcion (5.13)
By: Princess Mia When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: Well the second pitch is one of the best splitters around. What I am curious about is: since when do we simply rename a route cause it went free????? Can you just imagine the uproar if we renamed all the routes on El Cap or in Zion for example just cause they have now been freed???? IMHO I totally disagree with this tactic, especially out of respect to those who put up the route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Park as per description above, directly below the cliff at an old campsite. This is exactly where the road spur cuts sharply back. In the back of the campsite is a nice new and improved trail. Pretty steep but easy to follow. It comes up right by Low Spark.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fringe Walls : Neutron Dance (5.10+)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Another incredible two pitch route. The first pitch is very spivey for 5.7, with a wild hand/armbar bellyflop foot wedgy traverse. Two BD #1 needed for the belay. Pitch two is about as good as it gets. Many BD #1 and a few 2s and 3s.
The anchor is fine. Two good and solid bolts, yes leader hangers but you are not wipping off them, just rapping, and the chains are good. Plus there is a solid piton. Bring extra webbing to replace the old stuff on the piton.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/... (5.10+)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: This is pretty much the first route you get to after the trail meets the rock wall. Excellent!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : As you wish (5.11-)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: There are two "caves" a wee bit right of Nurse Ratchet. This is in the first one. Hike through the "cave" from the right and the climb is outside on the left. This is an awesome climb but too short to warrant three stars.
Three each BD 0.75 & #1 will sew it up.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : cave route (5.9+)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: The guide book calls this route Mini Cave. It is indeed just like the Cave Route but much shorter and skinnier. Depending on how you feel about BD 0.5 will determine how many you need. I say five will sew it up! I would give it three states but it is simply too short for it.


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