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Chillin' at City of Rocks


Member Since: May 22, 2006
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,503
Total Points: 408
Last Year: 71
Last 30 Days: 2
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Princess Mia been climbing?










Contributions


All 1025 | Routes | Areas | Photos 65 | Page Improvements | Comments 83 | Posts 681 | Stars 134 | Ratings 62
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : North Corner : SS Maywood (5.10)
By: Princess Mia When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: If you have a 70 m rope you can rap to the ground, no problem!!! The ends just reach the ground so know your middle.......

I say 3 BD#2 and a bunch of BD#3, BD#4 and one BD#4.5. There is really only one place for the latter.....

It does go down to BD#3 at the top.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : John's Tower : Yellow Belly (5.10b)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: Well the old guidebook says 5.10c and the new says 5.10d. All I can say it is not 5.10b, and the second pitch is awesome and may look mangy, but the climbing is not and it sure isn't 5.9 either. The going rating is 5.10-ish.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Unknown 5.8 (5.8 R)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, I think pitch one of Let Me Cry is the crack immediately to the left of Two Jews. It looks like an awesome line, but it is full of bushes. If cleaned, it would surely increase in popularity.
The unnamed 5.8 is pretty fun but is very spicy between bolts one and two. The anchor is fine. We replaced the webbing and left a biner.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Asshole Rock : Cardiac Crack (5.9+)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: Super route with great rests; hence I can't say it is sustained. I'm sure the crux is different for everyone. For me, it was the finger crack getting off the ground. The roof/ow/chimney looking thing is daunting but not hard. A BD #5 protects that move if you want to haul one up there. The rest of the route is pretty straightforward. The upper section eats gear, a few #4 may come in handy.
I agree with the 9+ rating except the start felt more like 10 for me. But maybe caus... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall : Finger Fun (5.10)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: This is a two pitch climb and it is accurately rated at 5.11!!!

Pitch one -- 35 meters -- 5.10 -- excellent finger crack. The beginning protects with two pitons and one can add a couple of purple TCUs. Many blue and yellow TCUs are needed. TCUs fit better than quad cams, but a couple of BD 0.3-0.4 are useful. Fat bolts with stainless steal rings at the anchor.

Pitch two -- 40 meters - 5.11 -- excellent finger crack, but it turns to tips in a couple of short sections, the rack from pitch one wo... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Tooth Fairy (5.11-)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: Relentless!!!!
Evil!!!
Grueling!!!!

Do I need to say more????

Absolutely amazing, sustained forever, many BD #5 (new style).......

The start wasn't too bad for me as I got great stacks, but further up the stacks turned really crappy....... The pod is fun, both getting into and out of......

A 70 meter rope works perfectly, but just, so pay attention!!!!

The ultimate climb for screaming barfies.......


Location: Mic Fairchild : a few pix : Photo
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: I love the tights...... exactly what I like to wear......


Location: Honnold Solos Triple Crown ...
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: Amazing!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Climb and Punishment (5.9)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Very awkward start and then pretty big and rattly hands for me...but hey I prefer BD #1.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Old Eyeful (5.6)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Super fun and what a surprise.... Great easy and very unique route!!!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.11+)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: It is kind of funny to look at the "com census" rating and so many folk saying it is 10a...well 99% of all only do the first pitch and yes it is 10a. But really... it is a three-pitch climb rated at 11+.

So, if you are not going to do all three pitches then you probably should not give the climb a grade.

Just saying....


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Gilman Canyon
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: The wastewater treatment plant is finished, but it is illegal to park at the pullout, and the sheriff does do a drive by every day. One can park along the road in a few places, but be aware of rockfall from above. The best parking is at the Klettergarden.

Also, the railroad tracks and the crags close to the tracks are owned by the railroad (go figure), and the crags further uphill from the tracks are owned by Ginn. It is all private property, but access has not been a problem, yet!!!!!


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Wolcott Crags and Boulders : The First Tier
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: IMPORTANT!!!!!
Please note that both crags here (the lower being Tressel Rock and the higher being the CMC Crag) are on private land!!!!! It is clearly posted, and the owner does NOT want any climbers on his property.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Concepcion (5.13)
By: Princess Mia When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: Well the second pitch is one of the best splitters around. What I am curious about is: since when do we simply rename a route cause it went free????? Can you just imagine the uproar if we renamed all the routes on El Cap or in Zion for example just cause they have now been freed???? IMHO I totally disagree with this tactic, especially out of respect to those who put up the route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Park as per description above, directly below the cliff at an old campsite. This is exactly where the road spur cuts sharply back. In the back of the campsite is a nice new and improved trail. Pretty steep but easy to follow. It comes up right by Low Spark.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fringe Walls : Neutron Dance (5.10+)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Another incredible two pitch route. The first pitch is very spivey for 5.7, with a wild hand/armbar bellyflop foot wedgy traverse. Two BD #1 needed for the belay. Pitch two is about as good as it gets. Many BD #1 and a few 2s and 3s.
The anchor is fine. Two good and solid bolts, yes leader hangers but you are not wipping off them, just rapping, and the chains are good. Plus there is a solid piton. Bring extra webbing to replace the old stuff on the piton.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/... (5.10+)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: This is pretty much the first route you get to after the trail meets the rock wall. Excellent!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : As you wish (5.11-)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: There are two "caves" a wee bit right of Nurse Ratchet. This is in the first one. Hike through the "cave" from the right and the climb is outside on the left. This is an awesome climb but too short to warrant three stars.
Three each BD 0.75 & #1 will sew it up.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : cave route (5.9+)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: The guide book calls this route Mini Cave. It is indeed just like the Cave Route but much shorter and skinnier. Depending on how you feel about BD 0.5 will determine how many you need. I say five will sew it up! I would give it three states but it is simply too short for it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : M.C.'s Hammer (5.11-)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: All I can say is Excellent!!!!!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Nurse Rachet (5.11-)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Excellent route but it felt like 5.10 to me. Maybe as I am small. I surely was fighting the whole way up. Also it is BD 3.5 forever. Too big for BD 3 and too small for new #4. Perfect fists for me but it did work me over.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Great trail! Thanx!!!

The road to the trail requires 4x4 and high clearance. I wouldn't take an Escape, Forrester, CR-V etc up the road. It is way too steep and rough. Yes the section is pretty short but still. We parked at the obvious flat parking area before the rough spot. Then hoofed it for a mile across the desert. A mtn bike would have been nice. The new trail is at the extreme left side of the cliff.

Now I must admit, after climbing on the right side of the cliff and looking straight d... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Orion's Bow (5.10 R)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Super fun and absolutely a classic! Yes this is not what you expect at the creek but the total opposite. Three pitches of exciting friction. Not very hard but R rated. Pitch one follows easy seam and then you must build your own stopper anchor, but at a good stance. Second pitch has some fun exposure down the right side, leads to pretty good anchor (but bring extra webbing in case), the last pitch wanders left up some crazy and sandy rock. A few old bolts and very runout. Rap to top of P2 and th... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Android Waffle Hot Line (5.10b)
By: Princess Mia When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: Super fun!!! Big and meaty forever!!!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Gunsmoke (5.11a)
By: Princess Mia When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: Well having small hands made this route a royal nightmare for me. Way harder than most 11a. The start was fists that tried to spit me out, then it was rattely cupped hands forever. Finally towards the top of the splitter I got one descent hand jam. The top was easy, jam straight in and use abundant feet on the right face.


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