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Chillin' at City of Rocks


Member Since: May 22, 2006
Last Visit: 6 days ago
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Princess Mia
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Point Rank: # 1,580
Total Points: 427
Last Year: 21
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1098 | Routes | Areas | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 97 | Posts 690 | Stars 163 | Ratings 82
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Hoop Dancer (5.11 X)
By: Princess Mia When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: Eggdrop to Hoop Dancer is a great linkup, and it avoids that first 5.9 pitch. The slightly overhanging #2 camalot crack at the crux is stunning but on the big side of #2 (cupped hands for me). Dont place a #2 at the corner or you will risk loosing it as the rope will push it inward. In fact, if you have two nut tools and skinny arms you can score yourself a brand new #2 that has walked in a bit.

The thin hands section at the beginning is glorious!!!

The raps are horrid... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Wild Flower (5.10a)
By: Princess Mia When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: Excellent route!
P1 is 5.9, but I leaving the sandy ledge half way up and climbing past the bolt has some pucker factor especially if one is short, as a few sandy moves are required before clipping the bolt, and the last available pro is below the ledge.
P2 is pretty straight forward 5.10a. Easy jamming and a few fun little moves.
P3 is absolutely wonderful. The initial stemming/chimney/squeeze is easy and protects well with a #4.5. Then there are two bolts before the final squeeze/OW (cru... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Idiot Wind (5.10c)
By: Princess Mia When: Aug 22, 2011

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Comments: We just climbed this exciting route on Sunday. The excitement factor was greatly enhanced as a major rain storm moved in (faster than normal?) when climbing the second traverse pitch (P4). The waterfall coming off the second roof onto this pitch was a bit nervewrecking.

General info: comfy belay on top of P1 but no bolts. Nice bolts on top of P2. The crux pitch has one old and nasty "button head" and one old 1/4 inch bolt. Both could use replacement. At least there is some protection options i... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Pornographic Motions (5.10- PG13)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: Exciting and spicy!!!! But with new bolts. 5.10 rating is appropriate. Another South Platte classic!!!! Deserves many stars.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: SUPER CLASSIC OW!!!!!

Prairie Dog Crematorium. I think the name says it all. It is the leftmost route on the south side of the Dome. Very obvious if one hikes up and over the pass to the left of the east routes, down the other side for a few hundred yards and there it is on the right. A big, ugly, nasty, and sooooo beautiful OW!!!

The old guidebooks are not very clear in the pics, and it may be easy to think the route is the dihedral to the right. But no, that one is only 5.9. Prairie Dog Crem... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : North Vail Ice : Vail, Booth Creek
By: Princess Mia When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: Booth is in great conditions. We have been up there two weekends in a row. Both times we had to break trail as there was a good couple of feet of snow. Plan on 2-3 hours if you are in good shape and there is no trail. Our trail goes up the main trail further than normal and then cuts up the less steep slope. A lot of settling snow, so be aware of avi danger.

Not in: Clay's Pillar, Saddam Insane, Sick Puppy, Psycho Pillar, and the Thong.

In: Little Brother, Hair Today, More Junky, War Pig, the ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Secret Probation (WI5 M6-7)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 2, 2006

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Comments: It is actually pretty funny that I have never looked at this site. But a correction is in order. The first ascent was by Dave Tucholke and Scott Hovet in 1991. I have some old photos of the classic event. Dave and Scott did it ground up, putting in a pin and bolts, without any "top rope beta". I remember reading an article long ago where Greg mentioned the pin and bolts on his "first acsent". Well sorry to break the news. The FA is not his!!!


Location: CO : Access to 14ers behind Alma...
By: Princess Mia When: Aug 13, 2006

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Comments: Oh those access issues....
In the long run, I think access will be sorted out around Alma, and the other 14ers. I guess I do not blame the land owners, there are loads of open shafts around the area, and loads of folk who wander of the trail; however, access must be allowed to those magnificent peaks. It is just a fine balance between them and us.
In the meanwhile, JOIN THE ACCESS FUND! They are our true legal backing on all access issues.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Gilman Canyon
By: Princess Mia When: Jul 17, 2006

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Comments: IMPORTANT NOTICE!!
All climbs in Gilman are on private property, including the access road. Tread gently and practice LNT! Area could close to climbers in the future.
On a side note, The Town of Red Cliff has the best little mountain restaurant in Colorado. Mango's is well worth a visit.


Location: CO : Karen McNeill and Sue Nott ...
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 8, 2006

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Comments: We are sending positive thoughts to two of the most amazing climbing ladies out there. Hope to see you both safe and sound soon.


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 3, 2006

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Comments: I have lost all respect for one of my climbing heroes/role models.
If we do not respect closures; future access to other climbing areas may be in jeopardy. Imagine if the legal climbing areas in the National Parks or anywhere else closed to climbing? It is the responsibility of all climbers to obey the rules. It is a shame that "fame and glory" for one climber may harm access for all the rest of us. I am not impressed with Dean.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : North Vail Ice : Vail, Booth Creek : Photo
By: Princess Mia When: May 22, 2006

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Comments: Booth (Saddam Insane area):

1. Unnamed (so far).
First ascent: Dave Tucholke, Clay Hall, Joe Schmidt, December 2005.
Bouldery start, then traverse right, and up the dagger.
Formed for the first time this season.
WI5.

2. Clay’s Pillar.
First ascent: Clay Hall, Dave Tucholke, Joe Schmidt, December 2005.
Thin, freestanding pillar, to a couple of thin variations at the top. Formed for the first time this season.
WI5.
Note: Clay did not have a name at the time, so it has been fondly nicknamed Clay... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : The Secret Stash/Cicle Area...
By: Princess Mia When: May 22, 2006

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Comments: The real name for this climb is actually "The Secret Stash". It was first climbed by my husband Dave Tucholke about 15 years ago, shortly after he put up "Secret Probation". Unfortunately, when the word got out about "The Stash" the name got mixed up.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Accident on Monster Tower. Injuries and AccidentsPrincess MiaJun 4, 2015
Please use new parking and trail at Pistol Whipped!!Southern Utah DesertsPrincess MiaApr 30, 2015
re: .Climbing Gear ReviewsPrincess MiaJan 21, 2015
Found: gloves on top of Killer PillarLost and FoundPrincess MiaJan 21, 2015
re: Torn rotator cuff or shoulder injuryIce ClimbingPrincess MiaDec 11, 2014
re: The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice Conditions ThreadColoradoPrincess MiaDec 8, 2014
re: Difference between Alpine Climbing and Mountaineering?MountaineeringPrincess MiaNov 28, 2014
re: Torn rotator cuff or shoulder injuryIce ClimbingPrincess MiaNov 22, 2014
re: CAMP pro and biners: quality and value (?)Climbing Gear DiscussionPrincess MiaNov 16, 2014
re: Lonely VigilSouthern Utah DesertsPrincess MiaOct 21, 2014
re: Reslinging options / opinions - Mtntools, Black Diamond...Climbing Gear DiscussionPrincess MiaOct 21, 2014
re: Driving from Vegas to Moab, have 3 days and a wife that will reluctantly belay but not leave the ground. Destination climbs en route?Southern Utah DesertsPrincess MiaSep 11, 2014
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