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Chillin' at City of Rocks


Member Since: May 22, 2006
Last Visit: Sep 11, 2014
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Point Rank: # 1,324
Total Points: 461
Last Year: 131
Last 30 Days: 0
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Princess Mia been climbing?










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All 1003 | Routes | Areas | Photos 65 | Page Improvements | Comments 81 | Posts 679 | Stars 125 | Ratings 53
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Tourette's (WI4- M6)
By: Princess Mia When: Jan 31, 2012

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Comments: It is nice to have new bolts. Thanx!

One comment, it is pretty cruxy getting to the second bolt, and if falling there, a grounder is possible and for sure the belayer will get totally skewered by the leader's poons. I say be very, very careful and attentive there.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Titties 'n' Beer (WI5- M7)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 27, 2011

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Comments: Another typical male description of a climb....
Well, you should know what us girls wish for....


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Public Masturbation (M8)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 27, 2011

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Comments: We just climbed PM yesterday. It is in great condition with a fun, overhanging, mixed start, then on to the ice over the roof, and then the oh so delicate finish.

We actually don't know if it is M8. It is significantly harder than Secret Probation (by a lot). The top is so thin and delicate. The roof is easier for short people, and the top "friction slab" seems easier for tall people. It would be cool to get a better rating consensus from the climbing community.

And by the way, it is 5 bolts... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Secret Probation (WI5 M6-7)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: Just climbed SP today, and it was super fun. For a shortie like me, several dry-tooling moves are necessary before reaching the ice. I couldn't stick the ice until after the first bolt and just before the second. There is ice to the left, providing a nice rest before stepping over to the right. The top is just super fun climbing.

IMHO, if the route was like it used to be back in the early '90s, i.e. no holes in the soft limestone from many climbs, well then it would be a lot harder. But hey, th... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Log-Jammin' (WI3-4 M4-5 R)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: Super fun route either way you start. No anchor tree at the top any more so one must do the overhanging dirt finish to a huge tree above. Very cool and fun. Currently (December 2011) three or so very short screws can be placed for pro.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Public Masturbation (M8)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 1, 2011

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Comments: This is a fun mixed route with a couple of interesting moves in the middle and a very delicate finish. It was put up by Dave Tucholke, and the name is Public Masturbation,

Hey Griz - a slight misspelling on the name...lol.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Block Tower : Hurt Dance (5.10-)
By: Princess Mia When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: Super fun and excellent quality climbing.

There are several ways to get to the base, none of which looked worthy, so we did the 3rd class scramble up from the left to the big ledge with lots of bushes, immediately below a very interesting juniper that appear to be attached to nothing on the face above.
P1: a short but super fun OW (5.7?) protects with a #6 leads to a super fun finger to hand crack (5.9?) and to a two bolt anchor at a stance.

P2: hands to OW (a #5 and #6 cam ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : The Meat Cleaver (5.10+)
By: Princess Mia When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: Well, I completely disagree that this route is rotten!!! Except for the approach pitch, it is excellent.

The approach pitch really is about 200 feet plus of 4th class scrambling with a few 5th class moves. Roping up is not a bad idea. Belay below the "cleaver" on a huge ledge.

P1: climb up the easy dihedral (probably 5.7-5.8) that actually does protect with a few pieces. Yes there is some vegetation in the crack but it can easily be negotiated. A #3 or 3.5 Camalot protects very nicely ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Hoop Dancer (5.11 X)
By: Princess Mia When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: Eggdrop to Hoop Dancer is a great linkup, and it avoids that first 5.9 pitch. The slightly overhanging #2 camalot crack at the crux is stunning but on the big side of #2 (cupped hands for me). Dont place a #2 at the corner or you will risk loosing it as the rope will push it inward. In fact, if you have two nut tools and skinny arms you can score yourself a brand new #2 that has walked in a bit.

The thin hands section at the beginning is glorious!!!

The raps are horrid... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Wild Flower (5.10a)
By: Princess Mia When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: Excellent route!
P1 is 5.9, but I leaving the sandy ledge half way up and climbing past the bolt has some pucker factor especially if one is short, as a few sandy moves are required before clipping the bolt, and the last available pro is below the ledge.
P2 is pretty straight forward 5.10a. Easy jamming and a few fun little moves.
P3 is absolutely wonderful. The initial stemming/chimney/squeeze is easy and protects well with a #4.5. Then there are two bolts before the final squeeze/OW (cru... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Idiot Wind (5.10c)
By: Princess Mia When: Aug 22, 2011

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Comments: We just climbed this exciting route on Sunday. The excitement factor was greatly enhanced as a major rain storm moved in (faster than normal?) when climbing the second traverse pitch (P4). The waterfall coming off the second roof onto this pitch was a bit nervewrecking.

General info: comfy belay on top of P1 but no bolts. Nice bolts on top of P2. The crux pitch has one old and nasty "button head" and one old 1/4 inch bolt. Both could use replacement. At least there is some protection options i... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Pornographic Motions (5.10- PG13)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: Exciting and spicy!!!! But with new bolts. 5.10 rating is appropriate. Another South Platte classic!!!! Deserves many stars.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: SUPER CLASSIC OW!!!!!

Prairie Dog Crematorium. I think the name says it all. It is the leftmost route on the south side of the Dome. Very obvious if one hikes up and over the pass to the left of the east routes, down the other side for a few hundred yards and there it is on the right. A big, ugly, nasty, and sooooo beautiful OW!!!

The old guidebooks are not very clear in the pics, and it may be easy to think the route is the dihedral to the right. But no, that one is only 5.9. Prairie Dog Crem... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : North Vail Ice : Vail, Booth Creek
By: Princess Mia When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: Booth is in great conditions. We have been up there two weekends in a row. Both times we had to break trail as there was a good couple of feet of snow. Plan on 2-3 hours if you are in good shape and there is no trail. Our trail goes up the main trail further than normal and then cuts up the less steep slope. A lot of settling snow, so be aware of avi danger.

Not in: Clay's Pillar, Saddam Insane, Sick Puppy, Psycho Pillar, and the Thong.

In: Little Brother, Hair Today, More Junky, War Pig, the ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Secret Probation (WI5 M6-7)
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 2, 2006

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Comments: It is actually pretty funny that I have never looked at this site. But a correction is in order. The first ascent was by Dave Tucholke and Scott Hovet in 1991. I have some old photos of the classic event. Dave and Scott did it ground up, putting in a pin and bolts, without any "top rope beta". I remember reading an article long ago where Greg mentioned the pin and bolts on his "first acsent". Well sorry to break the news. The FA is not his!!!


Location: CO : Access to 14ers behind Alma...
By: Princess Mia When: Aug 13, 2006

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Comments: Oh those access issues....
In the long run, I think access will be sorted out around Alma, and the other 14ers. I guess I do not blame the land owners, there are loads of open shafts around the area, and loads of folk who wander of the trail; however, access must be allowed to those magnificent peaks. It is just a fine balance between them and us.
In the meanwhile, JOIN THE ACCESS FUND! They are our true legal backing on all access issues.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Gilman Canyon
By: Princess Mia When: Jul 17, 2006

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Comments: IMPORTANT NOTICE!!
All climbs in Gilman are on private property, including the access road. Tread gently and practice LNT! Area could close to climbers in the future.
On a side note, The Town of Red Cliff has the best little mountain restaurant in Colorado. Mango's is well worth a visit.


Location: CO : Karen McNeill and Sue Nott ...
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 8, 2006

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Comments: We are sending positive thoughts to two of the most amazing climbing ladies out there. Hope to see you both safe and sound soon.


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 3, 2006

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Comments: I have lost all respect for one of my climbing heroes/role models.
If we do not respect closures; future access to other climbing areas may be in jeopardy. Imagine if the legal climbing areas in the National Parks or anywhere else closed to climbing? It is the responsibility of all climbers to obey the rules. It is a shame that "fame and glory" for one climber may harm access for all the rest of us. I am not impressed with Dean.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : North Vail Ice : Vail, Booth Creek : Photo
By: Princess Mia When: May 22, 2006

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Comments: Booth (Saddam Insane area):

1. Unnamed (so far).
First ascent: Dave Tucholke, Clay Hall, Joe Schmidt, December 2005.
Bouldery start, then traverse right, and up the dagger.
Formed for the first time this season.
WI5.

2. Clay’s Pillar.
First ascent: Clay Hall, Dave Tucholke, Joe Schmidt, December 2005.
Thin, freestanding pillar, to a couple of thin variations at the top. Formed for the first time this season.
WI5.
Note: Clay did not have a name at the time, so it has been fondly nicknamed Clay... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : The Secret Stash/Cicle Area...
By: Princess Mia When: May 22, 2006

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Comments: The real name for this climb is actually "The Secret Stash". It was first climbed by my husband Dave Tucholke about 15 years ago, shortly after he put up "Secret Probation". Unfortunately, when the word got out about "The Stash" the name got mixed up.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Driving from Vegas to Moab, have 3 days and a wife that will reluctantly belay but not leave the ground. Destination climbs en route?Southern Utah DesertsPrincess MiaSep 11, 2014
re: Dedicated Climbing Partner Vail, COColorado PartnersPrincess MiaAug 1, 2014
re: finger crack circuit at Indian CreekTrad ClimbingPrincess MiaAug 1, 2014
re: What kind of climbing do you use your mythos for?Climbing Gear DiscussionPrincess MiaAug 1, 2014
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