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Chillin' at City of Rocks


Member Since: May 22, 2006
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,295
Total Points: 461
Last Year: 131
Last 30 Days: 0
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Princess Mia been climbing?










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All 999 | Routes | Areas | Photos 65 | Page Improvments | Comments 81 | Posts 675 | Stars 125 | Ratings 53
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Wolcott Crags and Boulders : The First Tier
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: IMPORTANT!!!!!
Please note that both crags here (the lower being Tressel Rock and the higher being the CMC Crag) are on private land!!!!! It is clearly posted, and the owner does NOT want any climbers on his property.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Concepcion (5.13)
By: Princess Mia When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: Well the second pitch is one of the best splitters around. What I am curious about is: since when do we simply rename a route cause it went free????? Can you just imagine the uproar if we renamed all the routes on El Cap or in Zion for example just cause they have now been freed???? IMHO I totally disagree with this tactic, especially out of respect to those who put up the route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Park as per description above, directly below the cliff at an old campsite. This is exactly where the road spur cuts sharply back. In the back of the campsite is a nice new and improved trail. Pretty steep but easy to follow. It comes up right by Low Spark.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fringe Walls : Neutron Dance (5.10+)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Another incredible two pitch route. The first pitch is very spivey for 5.7, with a wild hand/armbar bellyflop foot wedgy traverse. Two BD #1 needed for the belay. Pitch two is about as good as it gets. Many BD #1 and a few 2s and 3s.
The anchor is fine. Two good and solid bolts, yes leader hangers but you are not wipping off them, just rapping, and the chains are good. Plus there is a solid piton. Bring extra webbing to replace the old stuff on the piton.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/... (5.10+)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: This is pretty much the first route you get to after the trail meets the rock wall. Excellent!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : As you wish (5.11-)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: There are two "caves" a wee bit right of Nurse Ratchet. This is in the first one. Hike through the "cave" from the right and the climb is outside on the left. This is an awesome climb but too short to warrant three stars.
Three each BD 0.75 & #1 will sew it up.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : cave route (5.9+)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: The guide book calls this route Mini Cave. It is indeed just like the Cave Route but much shorter and skinnier. Depending on how you feel about BD 0.5 will determine how many you need. I say five will sew it up! I would give it three states but it is simply too short for it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : M.C.'s Hammer (5.11-)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: All I can say is Excellent!!!!!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Nurse Rachet (5.11-)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Excellent route but it felt like 5.10 to me. Maybe as I am small. I surely was fighting the whole way up. Also it is BD 3.5 forever. Too big for BD 3 and too small for new #4. Perfect fists for me but it did work me over.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Great trail! Thanx!!!

The road to the trail requires 4x4 and high clearance. I wouldn't take an Escape, Forrester, CR-V etc up the road. It is way too steep and rough. Yes the section is pretty short but still. We parked at the obvious flat parking area before the rough spot. Then hoofed it for a mile across the desert. A mtn bike would have been nice. The new trail is at the extreme left side of the cliff.

Now I must admit, after climbing on the right side of the cliff and looking straight d... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Orion's Bow (5.10 R)
By: Princess Mia When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Super fun and absolutely a classic! Yes this is not what you expect at the creek but the total opposite. Three pitches of exciting friction. Not very hard but R rated. Pitch one follows easy seam and then you must build your own stopper anchor, but at a good stance. Second pitch has some fun exposure down the right side, leads to pretty good anchor (but bring extra webbing in case), the last pitch wanders left up some crazy and sandy rock. A few old bolts and very runout. Rap to top of P2 and th... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Android Waffle Hot Line (5.10b)
By: Princess Mia When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: Super fun!!! Big and meaty forever!!!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Gunsmoke (5.11a)
By: Princess Mia When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: Well having small hands made this route a royal nightmare for me. Way harder than most 11a. The start was fists that tried to spit me out, then it was rattely cupped hands forever. Finally towards the top of the splitter I got one descent hand jam. The top was easy, jam straight in and use abundant feet on the right face.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Argon Tower
By: Princess Mia When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: Super fun, super sandy, super chossy, super scary!!! A true entrada sandstone tower.

Warning!!!!!! the top pitch is super X-rated. Someone needs to replace the old star driven bolt that is hanging out 3/4 of an inch (and it is the only pro on the pitch). A fall on this uber sandy friction slab would have deadly consequences. The summit could use one more bolt as well. There is one good one right now and three totally pulled out star driven old manky bolts.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Hassler's Hatbox : Lucille (5.12d) : Photo
By: Princess Mia When: Apr 18, 2012

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Comments: Pamela is one of the best offwidth climbers out there and a master at inverts. She is a true inspiration to us chicks who love it wide. Lucille is such a badass climb and one I can only dream about climbing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Meow Mix (5.10+)
By: Princess Mia When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: Such a classic long climb. One of my favorite creek climbs. It truly is 180 feet of continuous climbing. The pod was probably the crux for me. The rest just stellar. Climbing it as one long pitch with one rope works fine. Just bring a few long slings. If you don't want to go the distance with all the gear I reckon you could stop at the sloping ledge and build a bomber anchor. But hey, the real deal is all 180 feet all at one!!!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed
By: Princess Mia When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: Spring break in Colorado. The ice is fat and beautiful and there are no people. I live ice climbing this time of the year. Vail ice is glorious. Did the Designator last night. Super fat and sticky but not wet at all. The Thang is huge, as is the Spiral Stairs area.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed)
By: Princess Mia When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: Spent the weekend in Ouray. One day at Camp Bird Road- extremely wet but fun. Did Tourist Trap and Heart of Darkmess. The ice on TT was super fun and the traverse super wet. There are two pitons and a couple of TCUs can be placed. Both Skylight and Choppos looked too wet to be safely climbed. Water is flowing hard.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: This is probably one of the best routes I have ever done in my life. So long, and so sustained, .75 and #1 cams forever.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Warm-Up Handcrack (5.10)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: Super awesome!!! Well worth the long hike.......


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : East Vail Falls area
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: Well... I wouldn't say it has been "incorrectly" called Pitkin Falls.

In fact, it has been called Pitkin Falls since at least the late '80s. Of course, this should not to be confused with Pitkin Creek Falls, which is something completely different!!!
Now, this ice flow is NOT part of Pitkin Creek but instead faces Pitkin Creek and is located above where Pitkin Creek enters Gore Creek, hence the name. Sort of like Firehouse is located above the firehouse, and Racquet Club is located above the ra... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Firehouse Area : The West of The East (WI2)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: This is the main flow/gully at east Firehouse. Historically this has always been called "The West of The East".


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Firehouse Area : The East of The West (WI2)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: This is really the main big fat ice flow/gully at west Firehouse. Historically it has always been called "The East of The West" and is usually only WI 2. If choosing the right side of the climb, it could be WI 3.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Between the Bridges : Grandma's Glass Pony Shop (WI5 R)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 2, 2012

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Comments: Excellent, long, and sustained climbing. It is much longer than 120 feet, meaning a 70 meter rope doesn't even come close to working for a rap rope. My guess it is about 45 meters long as we used a 50 m rope and not much was left after topping out.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Dragon's Tongue (WI5+ M7 PG13)
By: Princess Mia When: Jan 31, 2012

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Comments: Good route with some mind boggling and fun moves. Much easier after knowing where to go (not so apparent in the beginning).
Spicy getting to the first clip, and then the next two bolts are spaced a bit far apart. I agree with PG13.
The ice is much harder than it looks, and by the time you get to ice fat enough to place a screw, well then you are pretty much at the anchor. So exciting finish.


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