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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Unnamed short 11- (5.11-)
By: Princess Mia When: May 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep this is most definitely Midnight Oil!!!!!
10+
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Gold Crown (5.11-)
By: Princess Mia When: May 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok so it is time to merge this one with Unnamed 11-. The real name of this route????? Who knows, it has always been called Unnamed 5.11- in my book......
All that IS irrelevant as the two routes are the same.......
So MP lets not have duplicate routes on here!!!!! I am sure someone knows if this was named way back when or if Gold Crown is some new thing.....
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : The Shroud (WI3-4)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fat and little avi danger at the moment. WI 3-4.
It is exactly 1/4 mile from the parking at Officer's Gulch.
One rope is perfect.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : Tony's Nightmare (WI3-4)
By: Princess Mia When: Feb 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is in great and fat condition right now. Start at the base of a small ice step then hike to the first pitch. It is max WI 2+ if the easy line is done, but climb further left and there is is a pretty fun looking and stout pillar. A long hike takes you to the second pitch. This is probably WI 3 right now, but if you climb on the right side, it is max WI 2 and again the further left the steeper...still not WI 4... IMHO.
Above is another long easy but super fun pitch of WI 2-.
Rapping is easy w... more >>
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Location: Matt Pesce : profile photos : Photo
By: Princess Mia When: Dec 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice guns......... or is that part of the rock? Hmmm.....looks rock solid nonetheless!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Pigs On The Wing (5.11)
By: Princess Mia When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best routes at the creek IMHO. Super fun!!!
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Location: Matt Pesce : profile photos : Photo
By: Princess Mia When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The sun will always fuel the fire!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Heat Searcher (5.11+)
By: Princess Mia When: Nov 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Spectacular climb. Two great pitches. The head wall splitter is one of the best.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Thor Wall : Mediasa (5.9+)
By: Princess Mia When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually the bolts are solid. They are fat and long and the rock surface was cleaned well prior to installation. I was there when they were put in, so I did notice that.
Great route! Bring a couple of BD #3 and #4 for the top. Nice and wide.
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Location: Princess Mia : Vedauwoo : Photo
By: Princess Mia When: Sep 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah that was quite the camping adventure........ went back to the Voo a couple of weeks ago but spent the whole time at Blair....... no people!
Hope to head for the Creek in the end of October........with everyone else in the world it seems..... Did you get 100 FA yet?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a)
By: Princess Mia When: Sep 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did anyone ever rebolt this one? I would be more than willing to contribute to the bolting fund. I sure would love to do the Solar Slab/Chicken Lips adventure day!!!! But not until rebooted.....
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Location: CO : Bent Gate is hiring in Gold...
By: Princess Mia When: Jul 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bent Gate is a great place to work, with awesome people, and yeah they do have the gear...which of course is a bonus.....
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Location: Princess Mia : Ice Climbing : Photo
By: Princess Mia When: Jul 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gotta love the Teva Wall!!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : Little John's Tower : Baobab Tree (5.8)
By: Princess Mia When: Jul 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. The top is classic but big fists for me. Extra BD#3.5 came in handy. I was working pretty hard up there..... LOL
I did some sort of slither traverse.......super fun!!!
A 70m rope worked great for the rap with lots of extra. It seems as a 60m would be fine too, but I just don't see a 50m...... but I could be wrong......
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : North Corner : SS Maywood (5.10)
By: Princess Mia When: Jul 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you have a 70 m rope you can rap to the ground, no problem!!! The ends just reach the ground so know your middle.......
I say 3 BD#2 and a bunch of BD#3, BD#4 and one BD#4.5. There is really only one place for the latter.....
It does go down to BD#3 at the top.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : John's Tower : Yellow Belly (5.10b)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well the old guide book says 5.10c and the new says 5.10d. All I can say it is not 5.10b. And the second pitch is awesome and may look mangy but the climbing is not and it sure isn't 5.9 either. The going rating is 5.10-ish.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Let Me Cry (or Unknown 5.8) (5.9- R)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, I think pitch one of Let Me Cry is the crack immediately to the left of Two Jews. It looks like an awesome line, but it is full of bushes. If cleaned, it would surely increase in popularity.
The unnamed 5.8 is pretty fun but is very spicy between bolts one and two. The anchor is fine. We replaced the webbing and left a biner.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Asshole Rock : Cardiac Crack (5.9+)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super route with great rests; hence I can't say it is sustained. I'm sure the crux is different for everyone. For me, it was the finger crack getting off the ground. The roof/ow/chimney looking thing is daunting but not hard. A BD #5 protects that move if you want to haul one up there. The rest of the route is pretty straightforward. The upper section eats gear, a few #4 may come in handy.
I agree with the 9+ rating except the start felt more like 10 for me. But maybe caus... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall : Finger Fun (5.10)
By: Princess Mia When: Jun 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a two pitch climb and it is accurately rated at 5.11!!!
Pitch one -- 35 meters -- 5.10 -- excellent finger crack. The beginning protects with two pitons and one can add a couple of purple TCUs. Many blue and yellow TCUs are needed. TCUs fit better than quad cams, but a couple of BD 0.3-0.4 are useful. Fat bolts with stainless steal rings at the anchor.
Pitch two -- 40 meters - 5.11 -- excellent finger crack, but it turns to tips in a couple of short sections, the rack from pitch one wo... more >>
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