Comments: The guy that wrote the Article is from the Bay Area. I thought the article was completely lame - he basically just talks trash, and posts some photos of his friends hangdogging up some hard routes. Maybe it's the fact that he has some injury that doesn't let him climb anymore (excuse) that he goes around shooting photos and writing articles about areas he doesn't climb at, or even research on mproject (not even a few clicks) for that matter. The keyboard can be quite shouldery after watching oth... more >>
Comments: Powerful, dynamic edging and smearing on high steps and small crimps to a final crux reach for a 'jug.' Ultra classic.
5.11c/d, but a few letters easier for someone with a big reach.
EDITED: Internet video spraying aside, I thought this route really deserved a video, as it is very technical and even dynamic for someone with a normal wingspan. Mickey and Jordan seemed to run up it just fine, and skip all the smaller edges, but for us mere mortals there's a lot more pain and sequencing to finish... more >>
Comments: Stack in the opening and find a big undercling. Deep cammed feet are the key. Fist and hands section is straightforward, but it's deep commiting jams with hands and ankles alike. Redpoint crux for me was moving from the hands section back to OW just before the horn. Exit section felt 5.8 and took good gear. Easy to preplace all but the final lip, no wide gear needed.
Comments: Fun cracks. Did the middle one today but the rock was still wet from the recent snow. Pretty sketchy when wet, both big blocks in the crack were moving fully and ready to come out if pulled on at all outward rendering gear useless and a belayer possibly smashed. They are seriously loose - better as a TR. Be Careful.
Comments: Pizmoe and I: Started at cracked wall, climbed 9 pitches to summit, rapped, climbed same 9 pitches again to summit. 1 hour 54 minutes. Kept the clock running from our first leader's step onto dirty rat's crack, to our second climber summiting the second time, start to finish.