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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Captain America (5.10a)
By: Pneumoped When: Sep 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this yesterday (9/6/2004). A nice climb if only it was a bit longer. Note: about 200 yards from the parking area on the main trail we ran into a nice fat beefy rattlesnake. Just beware when approaching the climbs in this area as it is a long way to the hospital.
With respect to the top anchor comments on Captain America here is what I observed. The existing anchors consist of three bolts. As I recall the two on the left were rap anchors and the one on the right had a clip hanger on it. Th... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Lower Capitalist Crag : Lunchmoney (5.9+)
By: Pneumoped When: May 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a very nice route indeed. I appreciated the variety of climbing in addition to it being sustained. The bolts were nicely placed and in such a way that they did not take the thrill out of leading this climb. Well done!
Although this route is certainly a new bolted sport route, my climbing buddy claims that while he was threading the anchor at the top to lower off, he looked slightly up and to the left and spied an old piton suggesting that a first ascent happened some time long ago. It ... more >>
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Coat of Arms Corner and The... : Crack Up (5.7)
By: Pneumoped When: Apr 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed on shortness. However, it is a good warm up for folks practicing pro. That crack gobbles up small cams. I placed pro every three feet just for practice.
I thought the climb could be made a tad harder if one forced themselves to not use the nice bucket footholds on the face and dihedral and instead sent it with feet in the crack only.
Chris Piper
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Halloween (5.7)
By: Pneumoped When: Mar 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is just at the top of this climb. After clipping the second to last pin you will notice one last pin just a foot or so from the top anchor. If you move right about 3 feet and climb the crux from a bomber sloping double handhold then this climb is 5.7. However, if after cliping the second to last clip you are just left of the top anchor and continue straight up, then the crux is perhaps 5.8+. I tried it both ways and liked the latter better.
Chris Piper
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Xanadu (5.10a)
By: Pneumoped When: Mar 8, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this climb on 3/7/2004
Although the dihedral at the top of this climb is certainly the most exciting part, I felt that the hardest move was about half way up the climb in a small left facing dihedral. There were three small thin finger ledges on the face with thin footing. A grunting pull on the two lower ledges gained a higher precarious footing, then a reach for the third finger ledge, stand up and jam your hand into a beauty of a crack that opens up in the dihedral. I liked that move so ... more >>
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