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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Medicine Man (5.12b)
By: piz When: Dec 20, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're looking at Medicine Man 5.12b on the south face of the spire.
Pitch 1- 5.9/10 kinda sporty with some face holds down low. belay on nice ledge with existing anchor. nice warm up pitch (~90 ft) possibly tricky gear placement down low gear- purple cam to a yellow cam
Pitch 2- 5.11+ (maybe) thin layback corner straight up, chimney moves and out left side of roof to a beautiful lieback finish. great pitch! (~90 ft)gear- purple to yellow cam probably two of each
Pitch 3- 5.12b thin hands st... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Lower Capitalist Crag : Stroh's (5.11-)
By: piz When: Dec 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's another great route at an unused crag. Tricky, technical and crimpy best describe this line. With a good crux and great finishing holds, this route will be enjoyed by all who climb it.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Fission aka Ken T'ank (5.12c)
By: piz When: Nov 7, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe the route was bolted by Tim from Boulder, Hank Caylor and Ken Kenny got the FA after it was bolted, hence the name blending in the three equippers together.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Stiff Upper Lip (5.12b/c)
By: piz When: Nov 6, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: 11dthere is no way that this route is 5.12.no sandbag, just jugs.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Comic Relief (5.10)
By: piz When: Nov 4, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just like to see who's reading and who's not outside climbing. I am not intending to offend anyone. : ) Sorry, if that's what happened.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Comic Relief (5.10)
By: piz When: Oct 30, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climbing is over after the first pitch (assuming that you link one and two of course) the rest is mindless climbing. Great intro route to the canyon.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d)
By: piz When: Oct 30, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: 70m cord4-5 pitches3-4 hrs
keys to success:dont stop to look aroundsimul everything!
have fun
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Wild Child (5.11c)
By: piz When: Sep 25, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey man, all the bolting on this wall is totally safe to lead. All bolts are placed at extremely large holds and all difficult sections have appropriate bolt placements. Remember, when you are ROCK CLIMBING (that is on rock) you are not in a gym, therefore there will not be bolts every two feet to clip. Lead climbing is an art and should be practiced on more tame ground. Accidents happen because people make poor decisions, not because bolt locations. If you are on a 5.11 route and can't cli... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Billy (5.11c)
By: piz When: Sep 4, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: you can get down with one rope off the gneiss route and billy with a 70m cord.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Conspiracy Crag
By: piz When: Jul 7, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's the beta on this crag: the approach trail sucks and is very loose. The routes have been climbed under 3 or 4 times total. From left to right, the first route is not that great with the least fun climbing on it 12b; the next route up the black steak is great fun with a chossy start for the first 2 bolts 11d; the third route is great fun on pretty good stone with a pumpy move pulling the roof 12a; the next route is a travers problem on big holds that puts you... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Conspiracy Crag : Trail of the Illuminati (5.12c)
By: piz When: Jul 7, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey again, this is the first route on the far left side with a chossy start and a first bolt that should be stick clipped because of the loose clipping holds and loose rock up to that point. The rest of the rock is great and the layback crux is good fun with some balance involved. The top of the route is dirty as with all the others and is probably the second worst route on the wall. 12b.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Conspiracy Crag : Soma (5.12a)
By: piz When: Jul 7, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is the third route from the left and starts off with some long moves to a pod with a hand jam. come out of the pod grab two flat holds and pull the roof to easier jug climbing to the end. great climb! with plenty of rests and good fun.12a
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Conspiracy Crag : Designer Genes (5.12a)
By: piz When: Jul 7, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey all, this is a great route with a chossy start. It is the second one from the left and has lots of hand crack climbing on great stone. 11d.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: piz When: Jul 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, the best way to save time on this route is to link the 3rd and 4th pitches. It doesn't create anymore drag than the last move on the 4th pitch. Great route overall and great views. Reminded me of climbing in the valley.
piz : )
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Conspiracy Crag
By: piz When: Jun 13, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey [Richard], please let me know what the routes go at from left to right, I have not been there yet and would like to give them a go. piz : )
Have a good day and we should get out climbing sometime....
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Lower Capitalist Crag : Lunchmoney (5.9+)
By: piz When: May 29, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is one of the best 5.9s in the canyon! Must do, a great read, great rock and good fun.
piz :)
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Lower Capitalist Crag : Contra (5.11)
By: piz When: May 29, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Darren,
It's 5.10b good fun and a nice line.
piz : )
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Challenger (5.11b/c)
By: piz When: Apr 10, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey [Richard], thanks again for getting these routes on the page. This one isn't the best line in the canyon, but once you know the moves and the clips, it's a pretty good pumpy warm up. The rock is varied to say the least, but all the clipping holds are jugs. I called this one Challenger. Rob Pizem
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Billy (5.11c)
By: piz When: Apr 10, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: hey [Richard], thanks for getting these on the web page. this one is called Billy and is great fun. Rob Pizem
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mrs. Hen Places a Peck (5.12a)
By: piz When: Dec 5, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, this was my first 5.12! piz : )
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