Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Pinklebear


Member Since: May 8, 2006
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Pinklebear


Point Rank: # 137
Total Points: 3,215
Last Year: 40
Last 30 Days: 12
49 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Pinklebear been climbing?










Contributions


All (687) | Routes (234) | Areas (26) | Photos (62) | Comments (175) | Posts (67) | Stars (100) | Ratings (23)
Page 1 of 7.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock
By: Pinklebear When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Don't bother going to Buttonrock Reservoir until 2015. We drove in today, not thinking about the floods, but the reservoir and preserve are closed while they clean things up back there. We were able to drive the road almost all the way to the lot, but then a ranger turned us around. There's nowhere along the road to park either, and they don't want people back there for now. The ranger said it will open again in 2015….


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hillbilly Rock : West Face (5.12c)
By: Pinklebear When: Apr 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Felt hard for 12c, or like "hard 12c." Many thanks, Adam and all, for updating the hardware!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Choose Life (5.13d)
By: Pinklebear When: Dec 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: It's always interesting how grades evolve on a climb, with traffic, new beta, holds in flux, etc. Who knows how hard this thing really is -- or any climb for that matter. It's always an interesting discussion.

When I first started trying this climb, it was July 2002, and while I knew Choose Life would go, I kept slipping off all the slopey holds up top in the heat because my hands were sweating so badly after 60 feet of climbing. I tried it on and off a few times that summer, gave up for awhile... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Conversions (5.12 X)
By: Pinklebear When: Sep 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Some history on this lead with no "point": in Eldo, to bolt a new route, you need approval from a fixed hardware review committee, and it's certain this route never would have passed — it would have been a "two-bolt piece of shit," as Rolo Garibotti, who did the second ascent, pointed out ... if it even passed. And neither Steve nor I felt like submitting an app for a two-bolt POS.

So, Conversions is perfectly fine as a toprope, or if you want the mental challenge, you can lead it with the hook... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Pinklebear When: Jul 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for fixing this pitch, Chris, and resurrecting a Dream Canyon classic! Was happy to clip all fourteen bolts. Would be a deadly proposition with only two bolts and shaky micro-cams. Four-star 12c: sustained, varied, perplexing, technical, great position.


Location: CO : Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma : Haus Rock : Burning Down the Haus (5.13d)
By: Pinklebear When: Jul 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe I was just having a bad day, but this seems substantially harder than Macho Picasso. If you take the rightmost start (not the Sky Pilot one), it's fierce and bouldery all the way to the second bolt, and I'm not sure how one even goes about snagging the crimp by the fourth bolt with the correct (right) hand -- it's a full body length above the break with nothing but blankness in between.

Anyway, maybe just having a bad day. These things have been known to happen!


Location: CO : Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma : Haus Rock : Macho Picasso (5.13b)
By: Pinklebear When: Jul 14, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Fixed draw on the last bolt is gone, but with a 1.5-draw, you can clip it low off the crystal undercling before moving into the upper crux.

Two hard boulder problems separated by a honking jug. The lower dyno can be made more manageable for short and/or weak people (i.e. me) with some jessery.

Be sure to top after your point for a solid view of the Rockies, even if you need to do a one- or two-rester!


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Dungeon : New Beginnings (5.12-)
By: Pinklebear When: Jul 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Kinda spicy to lead from the ground, especially getting to the last bolt with some hidden gear right before it. Possible Spoiler Alert, so don't read on if you're going for the super-pür onsight, but I think having some gear beta (or another bolt or two?) will make this a more manageable lead.

Good stopper above bolt three, kinda punchy above bolt four up to where, from the rounded jug up and left, I placed two Metolius #3 (orange) TCUs, bomber #2 Camalot in the base of the steep cr... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Welcome to Staunton (5.12+)
By: Pinklebear When: Jul 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I think this is actually an awesome pitch, especially the stretch along the finger crack on the upper half. It just needs travel, so all the crispiest part of the patina nipples can snap off (check out all the mini-pink scars on the more-traveled routes on the wall; it's just a delicate granite at first). The one thing that struck me is that this is a very committing lead, onsight from the ground-up. The "TCU nest" you can build after busting the hard crux past the third bolt was not s... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Thunder Muscle (5.14a)
By: Pinklebear When: Jun 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Before trying the route, be sure to power up with some "Thunder Muscle":



Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Honey Badger (5.13a)
By: Pinklebear When: May 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great route: long, lots of cruxes, cool airy position, great stone.

We were just — JUST — able to lower off the top anchors with a 70m, if the belayer climbs up the ramp a little bit. This will get the climber right back to the ramp, at the stance by the first bolt. TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE!!!

Thanks, Ben and Chandler. Killer climb!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Mordred (5.14a) : Photo
By: Pinklebear When: May 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Nice to have a triple (yes, I said triple!) draw on the fourth bolt in this photo. Lean off the arete to Z-clip it, then come back to the rest and unclip (and reclip) the bolt under you before you head off into the punchy arete-to-traverse sequence.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Caught in the Web (5.12b/c)
By: Pinklebear When: May 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Tough climb. Even without the right-shoulder-dislocating, V-Gnar-Gnar crux getting into the corner, this thing would still be solid 5.12. One of the hardest cruxes on a 5.12 around Boulder — maybe a longer wingspan helps?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Specter (5.10d)
By: Pinklebear When: May 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Old-school 10d (stout). Some hand-jam pain turning the first (bigger) roof. Good gear; good fun; good times.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Sick For Sleeping (5.11+)
By: Pinklebear When: Apr 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Found a draw on this route today (4/27/13). PM me to describe it and I'll get it back to you.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : Hasta La Hueco (5.12d)
By: Pinklebear When: Apr 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Superlative rock climb. Great work, Bret and Steve. The good huecos on the lower half will make you feel like a superhero...until you encounter their evil, sloping, widely spaced cousins on the upper half. The problem is, they all look like good huecos from below; so you just won't know until you know, and then...you'll know!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Choose Life (5.13d)
By: Pinklebear When: Mar 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, Chris, for the heads-up on the bolt. We'll be up there soon and will try to tighten, or if anyone's getting on it these are 1/2" five-piece bolts, so you need a 9/16" wrench or socket.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Flake Out (5.12)
By: Pinklebear When: Feb 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Tough times getting over the roof. With some traffic, this could become a better pitch; footholds still a bit spuzzy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Midnight Cowboy (5.12a/b)
By: Pinklebear When: Feb 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Good climb, great rock, three distinct cruxes, and well-protected. Get on it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Cirque du Soleil (5.12c)
By: Pinklebear When: Jan 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Toproped the moves on a direct start (from the right) that avoids the enhanced holds, and also figured out a sequence passing bolts three and four that avoids two more enhanced holds. Would be a letter grade or two harder if done this way.


Location: CO : Boulder
By: Pinklebear When: Jan 17, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Tori:

Bouldering: Flagstaff on winter afternoons.
Sport/Trad: Blob Rock until it closes (February 1).
Sport: Sport Park (if the wind's not blowing), Coney Island, Bihedral, Riviera, Plotinus Wall (access is tricky).
Trad: Eldo, West Ridge, and Rincon.

All are pretty sunny and either south- or west-facing. Enjoy!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South
By: Pinklebear When: Dec 12, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: There is an application for a second proposed new climb on the south face of Seal Rock, the final application for the autumn 2012 cycle of the Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council (www.flatironsclimbing.com), which closes January 1, 2013. Details can be found at the link below.The public meeting and vote will be held 6:30 p.m. Wednesday January 16 at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado.

The application for this route, American Nouveau, can be found at:
flatirons... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons
By: Pinklebear When: Dec 12, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: There is an application for a second proposed new climb on the south face of Seal Rock, the final application for the autumn 2012 cycle of the Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council (www.flatironsclimbing.com), which closes January 1, 2013. Details can be found at the link below. The public meeting and vote will be held 6:30 p.m. Wednesday January 16 at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado.

The application for this route, American Nouveau, can be found at:
flatiron... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock
By: Pinklebear When: Dec 12, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: There is an application for a second proposed new climb on the south face of Seal Rock, the final application for the autumn 2012 cycle of the Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council (www.flatironsclimbing.com), which closes January 1, 2013. Details can be found at the link below. The public meeting and vote will be held 6:30 p.m. Wednesday January 16 at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado.

The application for this route, American Nouveau, can be found at:
flatiron... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Geminae Cracks (5.13a)
By: Pinklebear When: Dec 6, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Sleeper little gem of a route; good winter sun. Easy access (scramble down around the south, upper end of Midnight Rock) and a nice hang. Warm up on the 11 and 12 out right.

We had in a stopper and orange TCU for the bottom belay but there are other options. Initially feels impossible until you get your feet just so, in opposition on the twin flaring cracks. Second clip is strenuous, third clip is balancy, fourth clip you're home-free!


Page 1 of 7.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>