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Member Since: Jun 23, 2007
Last Visit: Apr 11, 2014
Contact phillip


Point Rank: # 3,065
Total Points: 144
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 1
6 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (262) | Routes (10) | Areas | Photos (5) | Comments (19) | Posts (29) | Stars (175) | Ratings (24)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Pinhead (5.11d)
By: phillip When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: Thanks to whomever for the solid rebolting work!


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Midas Touch (5.11+)
By: phillip When: Nov 9, 2012

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Comments: FA: Pat McCarthy


Location: OR : French's Dome : French's Doughnut (5.13a)
By: phillip When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: This link-up is a worthwhile endeavor if you've ticked the rest of the wall. It's a bit of a hassle to prep/hang the draws, but you'll appreciate having them hanging, as the route is pumpy enough.

With strategic sling length, rope drag wasn't as issue. The main obstacle was the spookiness of pulling the crux (BSD to Road Rage) while sideways out from the previous draw (Jackie Chan). There was a bit of rope out at that point, and you're not that high off the ground. A fall here demands an at... more >>


Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Dark Tower (5.13)
By: phillip When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: Lousy video, but good beta!





Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Smooth Torquer (5.12c)
By: phillip When: Aug 19, 2010

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Comments: This route has been cleaned as of 08/2010. Upper slab is climbable and first two bolts have been replaced. The first bolt is still quite high, however. It's possible to climb the first pitch of Smerk to the Smooth Torquer anchor. A new bolt has been added to the slab that is clip-able from either Smerk or Smooth Torquer to protect the runout. (Permission for new bolt granted by the FA).


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Feather (5.11d)
By: phillip When: Aug 14, 2010

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Comments: Just climbed this today and wanted to mention that it is possible to rap this line with one 70m rope.

Also: above the first pitch we went slightly right and up to a bolt (that is not marked on the topo) before continuing up the crack instead of left to the wide crack. This variation was easy and created less rope drag.

Finally, the start of the Feather pitch is thin before clipping the bolt and reaching the locks. I recommend that the belayer lower their stance a ways to give the leader roo... more >>


Location: OR : French's Dome : Crankenstein (5.11c)
By: phillip When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: The rest jug 2/3 up this route is a time bomb. Look out below!

At least we'll have a new 5.12! ;)


Location: OR : French's Dome : Darkness (5.12c)
By: phillip When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: For the record- Dave Sowerby called this thing The Dark Side.

I ripped a hold off that changed the sequence of the crux, but strangely didn't make the route more difficult, just different.


Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : (5) Bat Wall : Manson Family Reunion (5.12d)
By: phillip When: Apr 18, 2010

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Comments: Let me amend my previous comment on this awesome route to say that, yes, it has a hard, bouldery crux (V5?), but if you stick it the rest of the route is a BLAST! One of the most striking, fun lines in Portland. The final lip encounter is super exciting. This line gets 5 stars anywhere. If you can climb either Dracula or Bad Omen, you can send this thing!


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Northern End : Desperado (5.11-)
By: phillip When: Sep 16, 2009

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Comments: The line right of ODB is Talkin' It Clean (5.9+). This was the original Jeff Wenger line and has the anchor that both Desperado and ODB finish on. Pretty full-value "5.9"!


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Northern End : Desperado (5.11-)
By: phillip When: Sep 13, 2009

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Comments: Nice work, Trevor!

Just one tiny correction: The route to the right is called "Ol' Dirty Bastard". May he rest in peace. WU-TANG FOREVER!


Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Sea of Holes (5.12a)
By: phillip When: Jun 17, 2009

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Comments: I started to clean off some of these lines and toproped Sea of Holes. I had a miserable time. Tweaky, uncomfortable, painful, stupid, dirty, uninspiring. Luckily, Wally Street is much, much better (though it also has a few drilled holds at the start).


Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Smerk (5.11a)
By: phillip When: Jun 10, 2009

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Comments: Smerk is the bolted face climb immediately left of New Generation (the 5.8 crack). Five bolts to the first anchor (11a). The second pitch of this is also reasonably clean and pretty good. Four more bolts to another anchor (10c). A 60m rope will get you down from the 2nd pitch anchor. The third pitch is overgrown and seldom done.


Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : (5) Bat Wall : Bela Lugosi (5.12c)
By: phillip When: Jul 13, 2008

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Comments: I don't know, peachy... That's kind of a strange comment. Of course they've held falls. This doesn't mean they aren't due to be replaced, which is all anyone has brought up. There is no reason not to have good hardware on these routes. A lot of this stuff is over twenty years old and wasn't very high quality to begin with. It has to happen some time, ya know?!


Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Cindyrella (5.12a)
By: phillip When: Jul 8, 2008

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Comments: Yes, it is still missing a hanger. I was just on this route the other day. The bolt protecting the crux is a rusted-out piece of junk and there is a stud sticking out of the wall about 2-3 feet above this. The hangerless bolt wouldn't be a big deal except that if the rusted bolt blows, the climber will fall back onto the slab of Gandalf's.


Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : (5) Bat Wall : Bela Lugosi (5.12c)
By: phillip When: Jul 3, 2008

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Comments: I TR'd this and would work on it in the future if the rusted bolts were replaced. The FA doesn't seem interested at this time...


Location: OR : Rat Cave : Pissfire (5.11d)
By: phillip When: Apr 13, 2008

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Comments: Must say: this isn't THAT bad! Sure, the rock is chossy, but the moves are more enjoyable than the lower part of the "warm up". It has its place, IMO. (The warm up was seeping, so we decided to give it a go)


Location: OR : Area 51
By: phillip When: Jun 23, 2007

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Comments: Beautiful but quite chossy. I pulled a microwave-sized hold off of one of the better routes with little effort and pulled more rock off of the crux bulge of another "3 alien head" rated route. There's some fun stuff, but IMO not worthy of a long drive.


Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Pinhead (5.11d)
By: phillip When: Jun 23, 2007

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Comments: I just revisited this route and I can say that it is certainly one of the top ten Portland-area sport climbs. Maybe state?! Good holds on beautiful, solid, grippy rock- what more could you ask for?