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Member Since: May 5, 2008
Last Visit: Sep 13, 2014
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Point Rank: # 3,115
Total Points: 156
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Phill T been climbing?










Contributions


All 729 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 66 | Posts 195 | Stars 429 | Ratings 25
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
By: Phill T When: May 18, 2013

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Comments: Fun area for some quality crack climbing. Note that the only anchors in the area are on top of Grass Crack on the far left, so if you want to TR stuff you will have to build your own anchors at the top of the various lines and then deal with some shenanigans traversing over (easier the higher you go) to the grass crack anchors in order to clean your gear. Alternatively you can walk off over the top of the dome (4th class but kinda sketch).


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : Hypnotherapy (5.11c/d)
By: Phill T When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: Still cleaning up, we pulled a melon-sized chunk off down low, and it was raining pebbles the whole time we were on it. Deceivingly pumpy down low to a pretty impossible to read onsight crux (stay right!). There is a good rest before you launch into the crux if you can suss out how to use it.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : Hippersnapper (5.10)
By: Phill T When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: The dihedral is super chossy, pulled a baseball chunk out of it. Not straightforward, pumpy, hardest 10 I've been on in a while.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Sub Gorge : Silent Pillar Wall
By: Phill T When: Oct 7, 2012

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Comments: just like to reiterate that the 'path' in the book connecting silent pillar with the rest of the subgorge via the river does not exist. Be prepared to get your shoes wet or go up and around. We tried to start the day in the shade at Inyo and end it with Silent Pillar via the river path. A good deal of rock hopping and bushwhacking later we were met with some pretty serious rapids that we didnt feel like navigating and had to retrace our steps. Also the 'direct' approach is pretty ghastly dow... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Exasperator (5.10c)
By: Phill T When: Aug 16, 2012

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Comments: beyond stellar! Save a red c4 for the final left angling section. You can get up high on it and surprisingly easily layback the final section to the chains.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Over The Rainbow (5.10a)
By: Phill T When: Aug 16, 2012

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Comments: personally thought the 'tricky 5.9' move at the end of the third pitch was harder than the '10a' move getting out of the p4 arch, and I was leading on the arch! Last two pitches easily link with a 60. I think this route is a great intro to any of the apron routes to get comfy with the friction the granite gives you. If you are seconding a pitch, try to not even look at your feet and see how you do, its surprising how solid it feels!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Liquid Gold (5.10+)
By: Phill T When: Aug 16, 2012

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Comments: to help ID p1, you can see some rap anchors towards the top of p1 left of the slab traverse. The '10c OW' on p3 is no such thing. maybe a 5.9 chimney with no OW required if you face out and rack on the right. We had a full double rack to 4" and my partner only had 2 small aliens and 3-4 nuts left after leading the monster 70m final pitch! Rap down Bulletheads East with a single 70. every pitch was different and fun!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Princely Ambitions (5.9)
By: Phill T When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: stellar! sling your last piece (#3 c4 for me) before you make the face traverse out right super long and then dont place anything until you get to the hand traverse (green alien) to avoid hanging yourself with ropedrag later on. I think I used 12 slings in all.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Aires (5.8+)
By: Phill T When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: if you dont want to grunt through the chimney, you can go left and up a little 5.6 groove and then traverse right on a slopey ledge with a finger crack in the back (protects with blue/purple metolious) to rejoin the route at the top of the chimney. fun route!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : New Testament (5.10a)
By: Phill T When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: if karate crack is 10a, this is an 8+. not sustained, low angle, easy pro, slammer jams, face holds galore. a tiny bit of face climbing/laybacking at the top gets you to the chains.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Rim Job (5.10b)
By: Phill T When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: I thought this line was better and quite a bit easier than Gruff next door. Its a series of thoughtful moves punctuated by great rests before the next move. slammer hands for the top 1/3 to the chains. Lots of bird evidence tho.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Four Horsemen : Friday's Jinx (5.7)
By: Phill T When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: there are chains at the top of p2 and a 60 will get you down in 2 raps. The p2 dihedral is sweet!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Karate Crack (5.10a)
By: Phill T When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: take a .75 for the horizontal at the top and then a .5 or equivalent (smaller would work too) around the corner to protect your 2nd on the traverse. watch out for the pigeon roosting at the top, scared the piss outa me!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Phoenix : Phoenix (5.10a)
By: Phill T When: May 27, 2012

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Comments: not sure about best 10a in the park. avoid this one if you dont like cranking on monos.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Basalt Rimrock : Northern Point : ... : If I Ran the Circus (5.10b)
By: Phill T When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: if you are TRing this, flick your rope into the main crack before you start the undercling area. If you dont and blow it, you take a big swing (no big deal) but then your rope grinds on the pretty sharp edge of the roof when you swing back in. No bueno. Super fun route tho!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Super Slab (5.6)
By: Phill T When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: no need to take two ropes, a single 70 will get you down fine. Walk around the big block at the summit climbers right, use those rap anchors and go to the chains 30 feet down and 20 feet to climbers right. This will put you at the top of P1 where a 70 gets you down fine. Fun route, but not quite a 4 star classic the book suggests. You can easily link p2 and 3 with a 70.


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Purple Galaxy : Purple Galaxy (5.12a)
By: Phill T When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: you dont have to use the two monos, there are definitely ways around them for those of us that dont have pulleys of steel. getting off the ground is greasy as hell and I'd say the crux of the route, recommend stick clipping the 2nd bolt (the first you can clip from the ground).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Wrasse (5.10)
By: Phill T When: Apr 1, 2012

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Comments: a touch more cleanup or some more ascents and this will be a nice addition. Cruxy awkward slot with a small roof (perfect #2 camalots) to start it off and then hands-wide hands-fists-a touch of OW if your hands are small. The wider stuff is low angle to keep it easy. Take a few #1s and a .75 to protect the last bit through a crummy band to the anchors up top. a 60M gets you down just fine. shiny new bolts/chains up top.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Numbing the Wild (5.11)
By: Phill T When: Apr 1, 2012

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Comments: I'm not sure about the blue alien or 'large' stoppers to protect the start. We did some adventure climbing up the back of this thing (chimney/20 feet of 5.9 hands) to get up top and used the anchors to get down, then decided to try it out on TR. FUN stemming/palming moves to get to the crack, then some nice moderate OW to finish it off. Seriously, I hate off width and I was actually enjoying this one (granted it was TR). Bring your micro stoppers and then pray they hold if you want to try to... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Rock Lobster (5.11b)
By: Phill T When: Apr 1, 2012

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Comments: the whole thing is less than vertical so you can stay on your feet really well. first 70% is nice hands (mostly blue c4s) to a no hands rest pod. gradually tightens down to purple c4s with the occasional small pod to help slot feet and hands. Get on it!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : unnamed classic hand crack ... (5.10+)
By: Phill T When: Apr 1, 2012

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Comments: deserves a name, and golden crown fits perfectly for all the golden camalots! Perfect but thoughtful hands through roofs, dihedral switches, a sweet knee lock no hands rest. pure awesome.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Comfortably Numb (5.10)
By: Phill T When: Apr 1, 2012

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Comments: gotta say, careful pulling your ropes and rapping off this sucker. Easy to get em sucked into the crack and wrapped around some unknown junk deep deep in there. Carry loops down in slings as you rap and then pull way from the side, almost had to chop my 70 the other day.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Nightworm Pinnacle
By: Phill T When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments: Great little rock, if there were more routes in the vicinity these would very popular.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Cle... (5.8 C1)
By: Phill T When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: The supertopo topo linked above is spot on, but I'll add two things. First, there are two sets of anchors at the end of P1. The wrong set is high and left if you miss the step across, the correct set is by the tree on a nice comfy ledge just right of the crack. You cannot see the correct anchors until you are on top of them, but you can see the other anchors, so don't get suckered in and go too high like we did! On the supertopo this is the 'no!' on p1.

2nd bit, there are unmarked bolted an... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Aid Crack (5.10d)
By: Phill T When: Aug 21, 2011

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Comments: Good line to practice clean aid (duh). A camhook helps get through the crux about 15 feet up. For a nice 2nd and 3rd pitch, you can link with the the first bit of the second pitch of Night Vision up to the two pitons and then follow up East Crack to a good belay, then fire for the summit. I found a hook very useful on the 2nd pitch below the small roof. C2, C2+ for the first pitch, C1-C2 for the rest. No gear bigger than a #3 Camalot.


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