Comments: This is actually a really fun and exciting lead -- in fact, you can protect it decently without using the crack in the keyhole at all (thus keeping to the direct route in the strictest sense).
The pro doesn't quite go away after moving left below the keyhole. Keep your eye out for the few horizontal pods that take TCUs (C3's).
Gear: Full set of TCU's, .4 Camalot. Small nuts for the bottom.
Comments: Did this one today. Bring some BD micro stoppers or similar to protect the crux; small Wallnuts wouldn't seat as nicely into the crack 2/3 of the way up the column.
Comments: An awesome route, probably my favorite so far at the park. Very sustained for the guidebook rating of 10b. The physical crux is the intimidating sequence of steep, crimpy holds immediately above the starting column, although some technical footwork and the shortage of rests keeps the remainder of the climb exciting.