Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jan 1, 2005
Last Visit: Feb 2, 2012
Contact philfell


Point Rank: # 3,341
Total Points: 138
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has philfell been climbing?










Contributions


All 62 | Routes 11 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 4 | Stars 17 | Ratings 10

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Buttress : Eagle Route (5.5)
By: philfell When: Aug 3, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb. Very little loose rock compared to other easy rated alpine climbs I've done. Lots of cobwebs when we climbed it so I don't think this gets climbed too often, although we did clip a fixed nut and cam that didn't seem to be there for too long.

Takes great pro the whole way. We did this in three pitches. First pitch, almost a full 60 meters, ground up through the "V" section belay where the angle eases below a few bushes. Second pitch, again almost a full 60 meters, up past the couple... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Green Phantom Rock : Phantom Staircase Middle (5.9)
By: philfell When: Jul 13, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This climb pretty much goes up the middle of the slab, fall line below the TR anchors.

There are 3 or 4 old holes where bolts used to be. If you are passing these, then you are on this route. If you pass an old 1/4" rusty stud sticking out of the wall you are on the 5.8 route to the left.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bumblie Rock : Too Much Fun (5.8)
By: philfell When: Oct 11, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Bring many draws or skip bolts on the easy sections. I think there are 15 or more bolts. Bring two ropes to get back to the ground.

Sweet climb that looks way harder than it is.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Coalpit Connection (5.10b)
By: philfell When: Sep 10, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: AC, did you even read my post???


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Coalpit Connection (5.10b)
By: philfell When: Sep 7, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: When James and I did this climb we are sure the upper pitches have been climbed before, but the finger/hand crack leading to them seemed to have seen no previous action. The crack was packed full of dirt and mud. James had to take out his nut tool and scrape out dirt for each jam and gear placement. Maybe it was climbed before, it sure didn't appear so.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Jack the Ripper (5.12a R)
By: philfell When: Aug 17, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Nate, I was making a joke. Sorry it didn't come off that way to all.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Jack the Ripper (5.12a R)
By: philfell When: Aug 16, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Ken what if a teenage kid decides to climb this and falls before they get good gear in and dies. In the name of saftey for the kids of Salt Lake add the bolt.

On a different note I heard Drew was talking about maybe adding a bolt here and there to some of his older/bolder routes. I think this is one of his routes. If some bolts start appearing on his routes they might be placed by him. Although I think he may have decided not to do this.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Crescent Crack (5.7)
By: philfell When: Aug 2, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: The second pitch, if done right is 5.7. This was one of my first gear leads, it took me a while to figure out but when I did it wasn't that hard and was actuall really fun. Carl get back up there and think outside the box.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lisa Falls : Freedom Wall : Freedom Fighter (5.10b)
By: philfell When: Jul 13, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this today, there was a lot of loose holds on it. The freeze/thaw cycle wasn't too kind to it. I've climbed this in years past and enjoyed it, but I wouldn't recommend it anymore. There is on block below the second bolt that seemed like it could go at any moment.

If you are planning on getting on this, please test your holds and climb carefully. You might want to have your belayer stand on the next ledge downstream so they would be out of rockfall zone.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : Little Hellion (5.9)
By: philfell When: Jun 26, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: This climb is great!!!! It is possible to get off this route with one 60m rope. From the anchors on Little Hellion rappell to the anchors on Medussa, from there a 60m rope will get you down. Make sure you find the center of your rope because a 60m barly makes it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom West (5.7)
By: philfell When: May 29, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: I just climbed this today. We broke it into three pitches and it worked great, although communication was tough in spots. The first part of the second pitch seemed tough for 5.7. It took me a little bit to get a plan of attack for it. I wasn't sure if I should try to lay-back, off-width, slap climb it and ignore the crack, or go on the face to the left with the few chicken heads. Overall the route is really fun with good gear whenever you need it. The final pitch is really fun.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area : Sacred Hoop (5.10a)
By: philfell When: May 25, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: It's a shame this route was bolted, there are so many great gear placements on the entire route. To me the line is so obvious it's hard to beleve someone didn't lead it on gear before someone came along and bolted it. On a different note it provides a good crack to climb up to for the sport people who don't normally get to climb stuff like that.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route (5.7)
By: philfell When: May 25, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed this to Arm and Hammer last fall. You really should combine pitch one and two together (need a 60 meter rope). Also someone replaced on of the junk bolts in the squeeze chimney, if I remember right there is a new on where the old stud with a wingnut used to be, then you can clip the old rusted 1/4er just above. The replacement of the bolt makes you feel much better going into the layback section.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Pebbles and Bambam (5.9)
By: philfell When: May 23, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great pitch to do when doing Beckey's Wall. There are some runs between a few bolts, but just keep moving from chicken head to chicken head and you'll be to the next bolt before you realize.

I usually bring two 60m ropes when I do this climb. From the top anchors on Pebbles and Bambam one TWO rope rap gets you to the top of the second pitch of Beckey's and one more TWO rope rap gets you back at your packs. Be considerate not to throw you ropes on top of anyone if others are following ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Monogamy (5.7)
By: philfell When: May 23, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: I wouldn't suggest anyone led this climb as it, the bolts are very old and rusty. I wouldn't trust them to catch a fall, but you never know until you try I guess.

The climbs works well as a top-rope. To me it's not worthy of the time and materials to re-bolt. Just scramble around and tr it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Nuptial Vow (5.8)
By: philfell When: May 23, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: All the old suspect bolts have been replaced, with new shiney ones. Also there is a new top anchor placed below the top lip of the climb. This prevents your rope from grinding over the edge as you're being lowered.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lisa Falls : Lisa Falls Buttress : Hard Knocks (5.9+ R)
By: philfell When: May 20, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Good route to gain some height. Don't let the runout keep you away from doing this route, it isn't that bad. Personally I don't think the crux is 5.9, it feels much easier and is only one or two smear moves right at the bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Industrial Wall : Loading Dock (5.9+)
By: philfell When: May 20, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Trickey start, but if you take your time and figure out the sequence it can be done smooth and not any harder than 5.9. But it takes a little to figure it out.