Comments: This route is a gem with some of the most fantastic exposure you'll experience at the New with extremely fun climbing and great rock, too!
I did this on the morning of a warm spring day and by the time I lowered off the top, the rock was sunny and hot and there were many wasps occupying the upper face to the right of the arete. I didn't see any nests but just a heads up.
Comments: I was always curious about the existence of the 2nd pitch. I led off the first belay on what I thought was the 2nd pitch of Yardarm but I could only find 1 bolt above some overlaps and for the life of me, couldn't find the second. Looking back, I think I didn't go far enough left and the large amount of flaky rock I encountered seem to match up with some descriptions of the route from rockclimbing.com.
Comments: The intended line goes straight up the slab to the anchors, which is 5.11c or d depending upon who you ask. Certainly not 12b. Skipping the crux makes the route quite a bit easier since it's pretty much fluff until you hit the slab.
Comments: I think the difficulty and overall experience of this problem are hugely dependent on body type. But to anyone who enjoys a boulder problem with truly cerebral movement, don't think twice- DO IT! (and figure out the beta for yourself, it makes the experience that much better)
Comments: Technical face climbing, stemming/liebacking up a beautiful corner, a mini roof finale, bomber gear throughout, and a perfect view from the anchors to top it off...this thing is the full package! I'm surprised this route doesn't get the same 'classic' reputation as some of its peers at Endless.
Comments: If you take length, rock quality, and aesthetics into account, this route should be pretty decent at the grade. What really astounded me, though, was that every move was awkward in some way; this route is the anti-flow! That said, it is still a great way to warm up for the steeper routes typically found in the area.
Comments: This route is incredible!!! It is an excellent AM summertime route because the Cigar provides ample shade in the morning while other sectors are too hot. The upper crux has some of the coolest moves I've ever done and doesn't let up until the chains are clipped (or in my case, even after- my clipping hold broke as soon as I clipped the anchors!). This route felt pretty tough for the grade but I don't have enough experience with routes of this difficulty so I can't say one way or another. Thanks ... more >>