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Member Since: Nov 20, 2010
Last Visit: Feb 23, 2015
Contact Phil McAllister


Point Rank: # 2,306
Total Points: 251
Last Year: 25
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Phil McAllister been climbing?










Contributions


All 185 | Routes | Areas | Photos 42 | Page Improvements | Comments 41 | Posts | Stars 70 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : The Pillar (5.8+ PG13)
By: Phil McAllister When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: The flake on the wall on the right as you head up off the belay station (just to the right of the smooth black face) is very loose abut 1" thick - has peeled back and is cracking in the middle - i didn't trundle it - but i wouldn't pull on it either... be careful with that.... makes the move a little tougher as you don't have a side pull there..


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : Dry December (5.9)
By: Phil McAllister When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: The trees have recently been hacked down on the back side of this climb - and having had quite a bit of traffic of late (even since the first time i climbed in a few years back) a lot of the choss has been cleaned up.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon
By: Phil McAllister When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: Hey Folks. The ALL the rocks will be closed from Feb 1st through end of July this year - at least (2015). No climbing Feb through August. Peregrin Falcon nests on most of the rocks (Mamoth Rock, Pagoda Rock and Rock of Ages at least...) - and from my conversations with the park staff the rangers are taking the time to clean up the graffiti.... They have a new crew in there that is really putting a lot of work into the place.

Salamizer - may need to update the Main information section- it soun... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : Blue Zenith (5.10a)
By: Phil McAllister When: Jan 17, 2015

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Comments: Sergey - a 70m will get to the double bolted anchors at the top - see the discussion higher in the post between myself and salamizer. Don't try it with a 60m rope. Thats where the picture that I posted is taken from.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : ... : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: Bang on. The crack veers left.....you can see better in this photo mountainproject.com/v/10776584...


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Cragmont Park : Northeast Face : Cragmont Undercling (5.7)
By: Phil McAllister When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: the loose bolt was missing when i was there today. There's only a single old school bolt at the top now)


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : Blue Zenith (5.10a)
By: Phil McAllister When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: Take 3x 4ft slings up this route. The 2nd and 4th (or maybe 5th) bolt are off to the right and extending the draws here minimizes rope drag. The 3rd is for slinging the post in the cave right before the anchors on the top.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : The Unsung War (5.10+)
By: Phil McAllister When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: Route looks to have a new set of chain anchors at the top of the first pitch. can see them coming down from rock of ages. never noticed them before - and hadn't heard of any of the usual suspects installing them. they're just to the left of the tree on the ledge at the top of the chimney from the ground. didn't climb the route and check them out. . . . .


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : ... : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Mar 21, 2013

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Comments: Be careful - the chain links on this anchor are kinda narrow - narrow profile lockers are necessary to slip through the individual links - unless you want to be sketchy and use the last link - which by my understanding isn't good practice.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : Blue Zenith (5.10a)
By: Phil McAllister When: Mar 15, 2013

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Comments: Took this all the way up to the top of Dry Decembers anchors - up the ridge. can clip the last bolt 'over the lip' then keep on going - sling a post one one of the big pockets and keep on going. Makes the route a little over half way on a 70m rope that way - so closer to 115ft.I found the climbing easier than dry december personally. All the holds (and feet) apart from one small section seemed super positive.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Lean And Mean (5.9)
By: Phil McAllister When: Nov 25, 2012

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Comments: The crux protects well with a #5 black diamond nut right in the bottom so you can still get your fingers in above it. After the crux it eases up a lot and the roof is a cakewalk after the thin cracky crux


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : ... : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Nov 25, 2012

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Comments: Climbed it yesterday - caughtinside is right - i slung the knob from below - gives you that extra bit of confidence going over the roof


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : ... : Knapsack Crack (5.5)
By: Phil McAllister When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: This is a pretty fun climb to do by moonlight (as a pretty confident 5.7 leader) - with the route being as straightforward as it is - nicely defined crack to follow - very little concern getting off-route. takes a pretty tame 5.5 and makes it quite interesting a lot of fun. Make sure that you have a headlamp to check those gear placements in the cracks though.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: This is the second 5.7 traverse on the route. i personally found this one easier than the one on the 1st pitch.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Sep 8, 2012

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Comments: we left out harnesses on and using slings and two slings and biners worked our way down making surte that one biner was always clipped into the cable. there was no way that i was risking a fall on those.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Sep 8, 2012

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Comments: Descending these cables is more scary than the snake dike climb.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Sep 8, 2012

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Comments: same here - great picnic spot before the long scramble to the top


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: Phil McAllister When: Sep 8, 2012

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Comments: Agree with Jim Dover's assessment BANG on when folk say bring plenty of water- but to qualify with numbers - and add some
1) Hike in - plan for 4 hours unless you already know the approach
2) Runout - depending on how you link the pitches and which anchors you use - 165ft pitch with one bolt? Make sure that your head is ready for this.
3) Hike Out (back to Curry Village) - Plan for 5 hours
4) Climb - 8 pitches of REAL climbing then 1000 ft 3rd class slab with 5th class consequences if you... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : 90 Foot Wall : Shuman The Human (5.6)
By: Phil McAllister When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: Seems to get mixed ratings. anywhere between 5.5 and 5.7. in comparison to other climbs on the wall it felt more 5.7 (rentier for example - a little reachier - but solid holds). Stiffer at the bottom - but easies up the further up you get at the bottom. The kids climbed to the left and it was easier - but a straight line up is more 5.6 / 5.7.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: Same mantle from below the anchor - it';s pretty intimidating - and straight up - the gopro fish eye lense makes it look like it arches back - but it doesn't...


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments:
Same mantle from below the anchor - it's pretty in...
Same mantle from below the anchor - it's pretty intimidating



Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Bear's Reach (5.7)
By: Phil McAllister When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: The reach isn't so bad. i'm 5ft8in - the obvious holds are the flakes (i was expecting the reach to be between two huge jugs bit flakes') my arms were just a little bit too short - until i got my feet on the much smaller face holds - they're allover the right side of the 'reach holds' and perfectly decent holds.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : ... : Deception (5.6)
By: Phil McAllister When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Got a number ten black diamond nut stuck at the optional belay if you're doing the climb in two pitches. you get it out and it's yours.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Bear's Reach (5.7)
By: Phil McAllister When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: we climbed this today - there's 1x 4" C4 Camalot stuck on the 1st pitch - don't know how long it's been there - but three parties tried to move it (nice piece of booty) but it's coming out) and there were FOUR small cams (not sure what type - short stem ones - could have been an older style of Friends?) stuck on the second pitch - they weren't moving either. lot of gear wedged in there.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Castle Rock Area : Waterfall Cliff : Leading To Death (5.9)
By: Phil McAllister When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: Fun variation is to cros over to the top section of convulsions as soon as you can ( just after the cave/roof on convulsions) makes the top section a little more interesting for a second climb - works pretty well especially on top rope.


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