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Member Since: Nov 20, 2010
Last Visit: Sep 17, 2014
Contact Phil McAllister


Point Rank: # 2,363
Total Points: 227
Last Year: 7
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Phil McAllister been climbing?










Contributions


All 177 | Routes | Areas | Photos 38 | Page Improvements | Comments 37 | Posts | Stars 70 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : North Face : ... : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: Bang on. The crack veers left.....you can see better in this photo mountainproject.com/v/10776584...


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Cragmont Park : Northeast Face : Cragmont Undercling (5.7)
By: Phil McAllister When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: the loose bolt was missing when i was there today. There's only a single old school bolt at the top now)


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : Blue Zenith (5.10a)
By: Phil McAllister When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: Take 3x 4ft slings up this route. The 2nd and 4th (or maybe 5th) bolt are off to the right and extending the draws here minimizes rope drag. The 3rd is for slinging the post in the cave right before the anchors on the top.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : The Unsung War (5.10+)
By: Phil McAllister When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: Route looks to have a new set of chain anchors at the top of the first pitch. can see them coming down from rock of ages. never noticed them before - and hadn't heard of any of the usual suspects installing them. they're just to the left of the tree on the ledge at the top of the chimney from the ground. didn't climb the route and check them out. . . . .


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : ... : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Mar 21, 2013

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Comments: Be careful - the chain links on this anchor are kinda narrow - narrow profile lockers are necessary to slip through the individual links - unless you want to be sketchy and use the last link - which by my understanding isn't good practice.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : Blue Zenith (5.10a)
By: Phil McAllister When: Mar 15, 2013

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Comments: Took this all the way up to the top of Dry Decembers anchors - up the ridge. can clip the last bolt 'over the lip' then keep on going - sling a post one one of the big pockets and keep on going. Makes the route a little over half way on a 70m rope that way - so closer to 115ft.I found the climbing easier than dry december personally. All the holds (and feet) apart from one small section seemed super positive.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Lean And Mean (5.9)
By: Phil McAllister When: Nov 25, 2012

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Comments: The crux protects well with a #5 black diamond nut right in the bottom so you can still get your fingers in above it. After the crux it eases up a lot and the roof is a cakewalk after the thin cracky crux


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Over Easy (5.7) : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Nov 25, 2012

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Comments: Climbed it yesterday - caughtinside is right - i slung the knob from below - gives you that extra bit of confidence going over the roof


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : North Face : Knapsack Crack (5.5)
By: Phil McAllister When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: This is a pretty fun climb to do by moonlight (as a pretty confident 5.7 leader) - with the route being as straightforward as it is - nicely defined crack to follow - very little concern getting off-route. takes a pretty tame 5.5 and makes it quite interesting a lot of fun. Make sure that you have a headlamp to check those gear placements in the cracks though.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: This is the second 5.7 traverse on the route. i personally found this one easier than the one on the 1st pitch.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Sep 8, 2012

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Comments: we left out harnesses on and using slings and two slings and biners worked our way down making surte that one biner was always clipped into the cable. there was no way that i was risking a fall on those.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Sep 8, 2012

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Comments: Descending these cables is more scary than the snake dike climb.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Sep 8, 2012

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Comments: same here - great picnic spot before the long scramble to the top


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: Phil McAllister When: Sep 8, 2012

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Comments: Agree with Jim Dover's assessment BANG on when folk say bring plenty of water- but to qualify with numbers - and add some
1) Hike in - plan for 4 hours unless you already know the approach
2) Runout - depending on how you link the pitches and which anchors you use - 165ft pitch with one bolt? Make sure that your head is ready for this.
3) Hike Out (back to Curry Village) - Plan for 5 hours
4) Climb - 8 pitches of REAL climbing then 1000 ft 3rd class slab with 5th class consequences if you... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : 90 Foot Wall : Shuman The Human (5.6)
By: Phil McAllister When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: Seems to get mixed ratings. anywhere between 5.5 and 5.7. in comparison to other climbs on the wall it felt more 5.7 (rentier for example - a little reachier - but solid holds). Stiffer at the bottom - but easies up the further up you get at the bottom. The kids climbed to the left and it was easier - but a straight line up is more 5.6 / 5.7.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : The Groove (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: Same mantle from below the anchor - it';s pretty intimidating - and straight up - the gopro fish eye lense makes it look like it arches back - but it doesn't...


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : The Groove (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments:
Same mantle from below the anchor - it's pretty intimidating
Same mantle from below the anchor - it's pretty intimidating



Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Bear's Reach (5.7)
By: Phil McAllister When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: The reach isn't so bad. i'm 5ft8in - the obvious holds are the flakes (i was expecting the reach to be between two huge jugs bit flakes') my arms were just a little bit too short - until i got my feet on the much smaller face holds - they're allover the right side of the 'reach holds' and perfectly decent holds.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : North Face : Deception (5.6)
By: Phil McAllister When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Got a number ten black diamond nut stuck at the optional belay if you're doing the climb in two pitches. you get it out and it's yours.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Bear's Reach (5.7)
By: Phil McAllister When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: we climbed this today - there's 1x 4" C4 Camalot stuck on the 1st pitch - don't know how long it's been there - but three parties tried to move it (nice piece of booty) but it's coming out) and there were FOUR small cams (not sure what type - short stem ones - could have been an older style of Friends?) stuck on the second pitch - they weren't moving either. lot of gear wedged in there.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : Leading To Death (5.9)
By: Phil McAllister When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: Fun variation is to cros over to the top section of convulsions as soon as you can ( just after the cave/roof on convulsions) makes the top section a little more interesting for a second climb - works pretty well especially on top rope.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : Putrefaction (5.11a)
By: Phil McAllister When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: Great route to test yourself on - all the bolts are just below anything cruxy - on the 10c slabby section and the roof - no sketchy moves above bolts to get your heart racing. Can hang dog it and try as many times as you need to.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : ... : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: May 2, 2012

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Comments: Use long runner under that block to avoid rope drag.....


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Photo
By: Phil McAllister When: Mar 18, 2012

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Comments: New Bolts and belay chains added in the second (larger) cave - thanks to the mayor. Don't recall when exactly - but sometime in the last couple of months.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks
By: Phil McAllister When: Mar 16, 2012

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Comments: Anoymous Coward is correct from the parking lot follow the trail through time back (to the east) along the creek to the bottom tier. From the trail you can walk right up to the nice big flat spot at the bottom of the Lower Tier (right to the Amazing Face). From there it's easy to access all the other tiers.


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