Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Twilight Time (5.10a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is probably easier clipping bolts than placing gear, but it ain't harder than 5.9 as a sport route.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Left Wing (5.10c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Man, what a great route! I went out the Elephant Butt to do it a few times over the past couple months, but it was always wet! It was finally dry this morning, and I jumped on it. What a treat in Boulder's backyard. I think move for move this is easier than Wingtip, but the distance you have to climb before finding a good rest makes them similar in grades. Very, very strenuous.
Take a single rack of BD up to #2 and some smaller stuff, and you'll be fine. I placed a green C3 before the sec... more >>
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Pike's Peak : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes. The bouldering up there really sucks also.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Pike's Peak : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This picture should disappear.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Outlander (5.10c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eh, to me it didn't feel as hard as Fat City crack, so giving it a 10c even feels soft. Great pitch. though!
I'm surprised no one mentioned the linkup we did today, worthy of a few million stars:
P1 Pear Buttress to belay ledge below Thindependence.
P2 Thindependence and downclimb a little and right.
P3 Traverse 10b into J Crack past flexing flake, 1 piton, 1 bolt then fire up J Crack.
P4 If you're ballsy, fire up the 11c part of J-Crack. Or just do the 10a P... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Practice Wall (5.11a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought that P1 was much more difficult than P2. Being shorter (5'9"), I found it impossible to place a high nut before committing to the move. I wasn't sure if I was gonna bounce off that small pedestal at the base of the crux.
I found P2 significantly easier to protect, easier climbing, and more fun:)
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, you're a creepy mofo.
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: UFO!!!
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : Around the Corner aka Unf..... (5.10)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like the original name better:) Thanks for the clarification!
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : Around the Corner aka Unf..... (5.10)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little printout that supposedly originated from Kevin M. It had most of the routes documented. Maybe someone just put it together.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : So Wild (5.10+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Errr, little printout with all the routes listed in it? I got it from someone who said they got it from Kevin M.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : So Wild (5.10+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the guidebook, it is suggested that this has the same start as Futile. Does it have the same start as Ramp?
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : Around the Corner aka Unf..... (5.10)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this the same as Un-f***en real?
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found something at the wall of the '90s. If you're missing it, let me know via pm, and I'll get it back to ya.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Leftover Stuff (5.10c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 60m works fine. Lands you on a ledge 5 feet up from the huge ledge.
Tougher than Hotstuff was definitely the consensus today.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hot Stuff (5.10c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone must have added a midway convenient anchor. Perfectly reasonable with a 60m.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Recovery (5.11c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Huh? Definitely 10c at most. Fun line, though.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Roadrunner (5.11-)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmmm, maybe I can blame falling on the rope drag? I didn't really notice it, even though I did this climb as one pitch. Probably I had the 40 lbs of rope drag Shumin mentions and just thought I was being weak.... Doing it on toprope afterward was MUCH easier.
This is completely possible to lead and lower with a 60m. Just don't miss the ledge!
Fantastic roof and steep crack! The line was begging me to climb it.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry, bud :( I bet it's closer to a 13 now, though. Think about how proud that would be!
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : Tiger Snap? (5.10d R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: no potential for groundfall unless your belayer is a complete nincompoop. Also there is a second pitch that is interesting for the sake of novelty, goes at about 5.8. You rappel the route.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : Dragnet (5.11a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: great route! There are definitely at least two major cruxes, one right off the ground and one at the very top.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The major hold got ripped off the 5.12 next to balance today. It was wet behind the hold when we examined it, so the recent rain may have contributed. It was probably going to come off soon anyways though.
I think it's much, much, much harder now.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Creekside Wall : Downclimb Route (5.3)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just because I go to CU-Boulder does not mean I have a bolt-everything mentality. I have a "trad-mindset"(whatever that means) and I like to walk off the top of a crag just as much as rapping. However there is no walk-off here.
Climbing is becoming more and more mainstream and thus more and more inexperienced climbers are being added to the mix. If they come to the creekside wall to climb(and the bolts have been removed) they are either going to damage the tree by putting their rope directly ar... more >>
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : Red Twin : Potholes (5.7)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: First of all, why is this considered a trad climb? Seems 100% sport to me.
Real bummer today. The good jug above the second bolt has broken off. It has made he move noticeably harder. Some knucklehead climbed this thing sometime in the last week when it was rainy. C'MON, people!
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Creekside Wall : Downclimb Route (5.3)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: You know, I took my 13 year old buddy here a few weeks ago, and I for one would have appreciated having them. We did a couple routes that I led, and of course I had to set up a belay up above the climb on half dead and mostly pulled-out trees. Then we both had to do the downclimb, which I definitely think is low 5th, esp. if you've got short legs and can't stem way out right.
I wouldn't go back with someone inexperienced if there weren't bolts there, because watching him make insecure moves 25 ... more >>
|
RSS Feed
