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RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan


Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Phil Lauffen


Point Rank: # 290
Total Points: 1,896
Last Year: 93
Last 30 Days: 1
91 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Phil Lauffen been climbing?










Contributions


All 2563 | Routes 21 | Areas 3 | Photos 242 | Page Improvements | Comments 431 | Posts 1374 | Stars 373 | Ratings 119
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Nuclear Polka (5.10a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: You can get to the base of the climb from the anchors on the right with a 70m lowering, just barely.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Monastic Groove (5.8)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 9, 2011

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Comments: I've seen bigger jugs.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Momentum Operator (5.11a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 1, 2011

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Comments: Fun Climb. I was leading and I fell turning the first roof with a cam at about my waist and another right below my feet. The clip in point on the back of my climbing shoe clipped into the quickdraw on the cam at my feet and flipped me over.

It's pretty hard to extricate yourself while hanging from your heel.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 29, 2011

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Comments: Got the poop scared out of me by a big nasty rattler today up above Frank's Wild Years/Bone Crusher area. Be careful up there.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Downpressor Man (5.12b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 27, 2011

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Comments: I think this route is pretty reachy for shorties like me. I swear, just two more inches and I would be able to nail the crux move.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Ozone Direct (5.10b) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 27, 2011

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Comments: To be perfectly honest. neither Kurt or I clip into the anchor with a sling anymore. It really is more convenient to just clove into the anchor. This was our first trad climb together: a great start to a great friendship.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 24, 2011

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Comments: Maybe... that biner may be twisted.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock : Land that Time Forgot : Solarian (5.10+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 20, 2011

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Comments: This looks super good. Does it get any sun?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Crack (5.11c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: This climb is probably my favorite pitch. Really good, airy climbing on jugs and cracks down low leads into some thinner, trickier sequences that get you pumped out for the finale. Then as your leaden arms fail you on the mantle onto the slab, you get the huge whip into air. So much fun! This climb is a lot easier to follow, as after I led SC, we topped out, got spanked on west overhang, and my partner then led SC. Both times the leader fell once, while the follower didn't really break a sweat.
... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Jamcrack Spire : Fear Of Flying (5.10 PG13)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: I'm surprised this gets a star in Rossiter's book. It's a pretty lousy climb. The first pitch is lame. Then you have to go through some rotten rock for the first twenty feet of the second pitch. I did it slightly different than Tony shows in the pictures below, as I went up the dihedral in the left side of the picture, then hand traversed right out a rail to the crux crack.

The crux is three hard moves surrounded by 5.8 climbing or less. Worth getting on if you are in the area, but don't come o... more >>


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Lake District : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 13, 2011

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Comments: hahaha awesome. I had thought the same thing.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine... : The Nose (5.9+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 10, 2011

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Comments: I did the second pitch of this climb the past summer and found the dihedral second pitch to be pretty hard with rattly fingers and no feet. Probably 10- as well.

This climb really is quite unique for the area, and all budding trad climbers should have to do it.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Lake District : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 10, 2011

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Comments: They let girls climb back then?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Parting Shot (5.11)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 3, 2011

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Comments: You can belay at the stance with one bolt with a few small nuts. I'm not sure if it is worth breaking it up into two pitches, but that's what I had to do in order to retreat to get a TR from my partner after falling multiple times at the crux.

I thought this route was very difficult. I have led and toproped multiples 11s at Eldo and had a much more difficult time on Parting Shot than on COC, Center Route, Parallels, Foxtrot, Vertigo, Naked Edge, etc. Maybe it is because I'm short?

Also, the la... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : Tiger Snap? (5.10d R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 1, 2011

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Comments: Wow, dude, that sucks. I've never heard of that happening before in Cheyenne Canyon. That practically sounds like sabotage.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Break on Through (5.10b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: I thought the 2nd pitch of this route was very difficult and devious for the grade. Once you get the "good" fingerlock about 9'(?) above the ledge, your troubles are not over. As a hint, I found the arete to the right to be of use.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.10d R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 12, 2011

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Comments: It looks like the crack on the JV variation is where birds go to die... there are at least two decaying birds to avoid.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Grenadiers : Storm King
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 1, 2011

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Comments: Yes, there is much more information. The old submission had no practical data, while this description gives more information on getting there and the routes which ascend it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : The Owl (5.7) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 23, 2011

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Comments: I've taken a fall with the rope like that... I don't recommend it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Instinct (5.12c) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 21, 2011

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Comments: The climber is actually on Sundog. The line to the left is Animal Instinct.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Fit for Life (5.12)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 19, 2011

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Comments: This climb is a lot better than it looks from the ground. We used a #1 Camalot in the horizontal.... Though if you get here and you have no cams, I think it wouldn't be too ballsy to do without the piece. Hard and sequential.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 18, 2011

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Comments: thems a lot of hexes...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Steep Thrills (5.12a) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 18, 2011

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Comments: haha, what this photo does not show is me hanging for ten minutes before this. Its easy to look strong after a good rest... Definitely the crux of the route for me though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : January Rush (5.8+ PG13)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 14, 2011

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Comments: Those moves on the arete moving left are way cool. Very exciting definitely on both ends of the rope.

We ended up topping out on a spire and doing a ~20m rap to the anchors on Rush Buick from a small tree with a bunch of slings on it. Mildly sketchy IMO.

This is Eldo adventure climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Emergency Brake (5.9+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 14, 2011

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Comments: I ended up at the anchors for Rush Buick via a thin crack that went straight up after a short traverse right from the last bolt. A fun route worth doing if you're in the area.


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