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RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan


Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Phil Lauffen


Point Rank: # 290
Total Points: 1,896
Last Year: 89
Last 30 Days: 0
91 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Phil Lauffen been climbing?










Contributions


All 2563 | Routes 21 | Areas 3 | Photos 242 | Page Improvements | Comments 431 | Posts 1374 | Stars 373 | Ratings 119
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Undertow (5.12b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: No real need for extra gear. The moves above the fifth bolt are a little heady, but quite easy. Currently there are fixed draws up this entire route....

Also, here is a nice video Kurt made of me on the route.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyTQ478-l6U




Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Chain of Command (5.11a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: Very fun. There are still some creaky holds, so watch out! I noticed in general the underclings are sketchy, while the crimps and sidepulls are solid. Sporty bolting. We couldn't figure out where the 3rd pitch was, so we bailed.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Two In The Pink (5.11+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: You just like to lash out at people. What happened to you, Jason?!

Actually I think it's a great name.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Two In The Pink (5.11+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 12, 2011

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Comments: Why are you so full of hate, Jason?


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 8, 2011

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Comments: I think the crux move to the manta ray is pretty height dependent. At 5'9" I could not figure out how to do it for the life of me. My 6'3" friend with a +5 ape index got the move really quick. Or maybe I'm just weak.

There is currently a sling draped around a horn right above the last bolt that allows for easy lowering.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : Papa's Got a Brand New Crag (5.11)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 8, 2011

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Comments: I see people are going right of the bolt on this climb.... I went left and thought it was at least .11+ if not .12- (compared to other routes at T-Ridge). Pretty desperate moves off of an undercling and terrible side-pull to a bad side-pull to slopers.

BETA: a BD #0.75 and #0.5 protect the moves to the bolt nicely. I was able to climb up real fast in tennis shoes, place the #0.75 in a bomber placement and then jump back down.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : The Expensive Route (5.11+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: How do you get past the first bolt?!?!


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : Powder Monkey (5.11a/b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: What is the route maybe three routes to the right of Powder Monkey? There are some nice vertical cracks (BD #0.5~0.75 size) to a single bolt crux (maybe easy twelve) to a cool finger and hand crack?


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Chocolate Thunder (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: I had more success on this climb than on many other routes at Thunder Ridge. I think it may have been because I was terrified of falling! My belayer was purposefully not looking at me, doing so would have caused him to stare directly into the sun! This is a good one for crisp temps.

One of my favorites at Thunder Ridge!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 4, 2011

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Comments: Biner Taste Good!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Joker (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: Polished and Grovelly(sp?), with a necessary tree encounter at the top. There are more worthy warmups at Easter Rock.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unknown 10+ (5.10+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: In Climbing Edition 242 there is an omega pacific link cam ad on p. 52 with a picture of Unknown 10+, and the description states the climb is Desert Sunset, 11. Pretty funny.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Tell-Tale Heart (5.12b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 31, 2011

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Comments: The crux clip is extremely difficult for me off of that gaston. I'm thinking I'm just going to skip it next time I'm up there. Anyone ever do this?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Riddler (5.11c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 31, 2011

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Comments: Very beta intensive. There are a lot of sucker holds.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Kloof (5.10+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 29, 2011

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Comments: I've always done this route going up the crack at the beginning, instead of traversing left through the buckets (I do it like this because I'm a wanker and I like having pro, it doesn't look like there is much traversing left). I think done this way it's quite a bit harder than T2, because you arrive at the crux pre-pumped. Of course, doing it like this is probably contrived....

Save a grey C4, #0.4 or a yellow Alien for the crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.10d R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 28, 2011

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Comments: Hey Dane, I did this today and went all the way from the Upper Ramp through the finger crack and hand crack to a small ledge. I would have liked to go another 20 feet up as it looked like a nice ledge, but I was out of rope (60m with about 7m chopped off). I didn't think rope drag was too bad. Put a double length sling on the first pin, then sling everything else a lot.

I didn't realize that ledge traverse was so long! It kind of detracts from the climbing. Next time I think I'll find a direct... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Riots Activist (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 27, 2011

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Comments: Probably soft, but I thought it was a ton of fun. The moves before the crux are big for me! My feet often cut going to the triangular jug, then some high steps and pinches get me to the crux, which felt a little more difficult than Days of Future Passed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 27, 2011

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Comments: It feels really difficult until you figure out the move. Then its relatively easy. So like 12+ OS, 11+ RP.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Your Mama (5.10+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 26, 2011

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Comments: The photo is correct for this route. Very fun, varied un-indian-creek climbing. Bring plenty of number 1s and 2s for deep in the crack, and the right starting crack. A few 3s are also useful if starting on the right.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Pigs In Space (5.10+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 26, 2011

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Comments: easier than elbow vices to the left. good warmup. You can lower with a 60m, so definitely not 120 feet long.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Elbow Vices (5.10)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 26, 2011

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Comments: Umph! The squeeze is definitely the crux. The scabs on my leg from this beast are still festering 6 days later...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Crack Attack (5.11-)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 26, 2011

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Comments: Way, way easier than scarface which is also rated 11-.

Walk your 4 up the starting crack. Then a 3, a 2, and a 1 before you bust over the roof. A 2 after the roof, then maybe 2 1s, and 3 .75s.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Climb Of The Century (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 26, 2011

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Comments: I got the RP on this yesterday, and if anyone cares the following gear sewed it up through the crux nicely.

Grey/purple Mastercam hybrid.
Medium nut in the finger slot where the pillar gets steep.
Green C3 in the slot below the jug/rail.
Green C3 just below the pin above the jug/rail.
Pin.
I found a blue/yellow Mastercam hybrid useful for the next placement.

That crack is pretty funky up high. I recommend bringing hybrids, or just placing a lot.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Guenese (5.11a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 14, 2011

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Comments: The bolt anchor after the first "pitch" is unnecessary and should be removed. Maybe leave one bolt there, but I'm not sure that would even be completely necessary.

A #0.75 Camalot fits nicely in the undercling flake after the second bolt. There is a good #0.4 placement above the roof until you can clip the pin.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : No More War (5.10a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: Fun route. The initial crack is definitely 5.9 and is a little difficult to protect. After the tree, it's a pretty easy run to the bolts on the face, where the crux occurs.


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