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RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan


Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Phil Lauffen


Point Rank: # 277
Total Points: 1,890
Last Year: 97
Last 30 Days: 19
87 Compliments
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Where has Phil Lauffen been climbing?










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All (2526) | Routes (21) | Areas (3) | Photos (241) | Comments (420) | Posts (1357) | Stars (366) | Ratings (118)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : Atheist Childhood (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 27, 2011

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Comments: Easy for 11b if you have any semblance of endurance.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : Joy of Heresy (5.11d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 27, 2011

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Comments: excellent route. The most memorable send for me in my trip to ten sleep.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Upper Great Face : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: I may have pissed myself a little when I stepped onto that flake....


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Upper Great Face : The Big Steep (5.10)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments: Wow, really good climb, especially with the monkey finish. I went up there expecting tons of loose rock (as the crags look chossy from the road), but I was pleasantly surprised when I didn't pull anything off.

There is one suspect flake about 40 feet off the ground on the first pitch. It looks like it's attached by some lichen, but I really yarded on it on rappel, and it didn't move or sound hollow at all. The second pitch was extraordinarily scary, as after you clip the last bolt you have to s... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: For beta on the approach, Rob showed me a way that is a little easier than the 5.5 handcrack fs off the ramp. Keeping going along the ramp past the handcrack about 50 feet (20 feet past Touch 'n Go) to a large flake. Climb up this and exit to the right up juggy ledges. It is quite a bit easier than the cracks, and there is a bit of a ledge at the base that you may land on if you blow the moves:)

Or just be smart and rope up one of the many excellent pitches leading to the lower ramp.

Currently... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 5, 2011

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Comments: It is weird looking at this as the first pitch. Because of the snow we started up at the dihedral.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : High Plains Drifter (5.10b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 22, 2011

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Comments: Link this from the second pitch of FCC for a four star pitch. The RP seam is a little nerve racking (bring long slings, so you don't pull 'em out!), but worst case none of them hold and you take a massive but clean whip onto the bombproof gear, you have at the FCC roof. Excellent climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 19, 2011

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Comments: That hold isn't really a rest...?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 17, 2011

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Comments: Is this picture horizontally flipped?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : $00pr kr33m (5.13-)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 16, 2011

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Comments: Awesome climb. To belay we stood on the small ledge to the left of the first bolt. The first bolt had a long draw with a locker on it, so the belayer cloved into the locker until the climber had climbed past a few draws. To get the climber back onto the belay ledge after lowering, the belayer tossed the climber a length of rope and hauled them in.

A dream project!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Headstone Surfer (5.10a) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 16, 2011

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Comments: well that doesn't look too bad! Its almost horizontal. I might even be able to climb that!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 15, 2011

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Comments: I think the best thing to do here is as Dave says and belay 20 feet lower and then link the next 1 1/2 pitches to the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Just Another Boy's Climb (5.11d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: Forget bringing four cams. Plug a 0.75 in halfway along the crack and avoid the pump. The traverse is pretty easy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Undertow (5.12b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: No real need for extra gear. The moves above the fifth bolt are a little heady, but quite easy. Currently there are fixed draws up this entire route....

Also, here is a nice video Kurt made of me on the route.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyTQ478-l6U




Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Chain of Command (5.11a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: Very fun. There are still some creaky holds, so watch out! I noticed in general the underclings are sketchy, while the crimps and sidepulls are solid. Sporty bolting. We couldn't figure out where the 3rd pitch was, so we bailed.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Two In The Pink (5.11+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: You just like to lash out at people. What happened to you, Jason?!

Actually I think it's a great name.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Two In The Pink (5.11+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 12, 2011

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Comments: Why are you so full of hate, Jason?


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 8, 2011

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Comments: I think the crux move to the manta ray is pretty height dependent. At 5'9" I could not figure out how to do it for the life of me. My 6'3" friend with a +5 ape index got the move really quick. Or maybe I'm just weak.

There is currently a sling draped around a horn right above the last bolt that allows for easy lowering.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : Papa's Got a Brand New Crag (5.11)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 8, 2011

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Comments: I see people are going right of the bolt on this climb.... I went left and thought it was at least .11+ if not .12- (compared to other routes at T-Ridge). Pretty desperate moves off of an undercling and terrible side-pull to a bad side-pull to slopers.

BETA: a BD #0.75 and #0.5 protect the moves to the bolt nicely. I was able to climb up real fast in tennis shoes, place the #0.75 in a bomber placement and then jump back down.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : The Expensive Route (5.11+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: How do you get past the first bolt?!?!


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : Powder Monkey (5.11a/b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: What is the route maybe three routes to the right of Powder Monkey? There are some nice vertical cracks (BD #0.5~0.75 size) to a single bolt crux (maybe easy twelve) to a cool finger and hand crack?


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Chocolate Thunder (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: I had more success on this climb than on many other routes at Thunder Ridge. I think it may have been because I was terrified of falling! My belayer was purposefully not looking at me, doing so would have caused him to stare directly into the sun! This is a good one for crisp temps.

One of my favorites at Thunder Ridge!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 4, 2011

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Comments: Biner Taste Good!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Joker (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: Polished and Grovelly(sp?), with a necessary tree encounter at the top. There are more worthy warmups at Easter Rock.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unknown 10+ (5.10+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: In Climbing Edition 242 there is an omega pacific link cam ad on p. 52 with a picture of Unknown 10+, and the description states the climb is Desert Sunset, 11. Pretty funny.


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