Comments: Wow, really good climb, especially with the monkey finish. I went up there expecting tons of loose rock (as the crags look chossy from the road), but I was pleasantly surprised when I didn't pull anything off.
There is one suspect flake about 40 feet off the ground on the first pitch. It looks like it's attached by some lichen, but I really yarded on it on rappel, and it didn't move or sound hollow at all. The second pitch was extraordinarily scary, as after you clip the last bolt you have to s... more >>
Comments: For beta on the approach, Rob showed me a way that is a little easier than the 5.5 handcrack fs off the ramp. Keeping going along the ramp past the handcrack about 50 feet (20 feet past Touch 'n Go) to a large flake. Climb up this and exit to the right up juggy ledges. It is quite a bit easier than the cracks, and there is a bit of a ledge at the base that you may land on if you blow the moves:)
Or just be smart and rope up one of the many excellent pitches leading to the lower ramp.
Comments: Link this from the second pitch of FCC for a four star pitch. The RP seam is a little nerve racking (bring long slings, so you don't pull 'em out!), but worst case none of them hold and you take a massive but clean whip onto the bombproof gear, you have at the FCC roof. Excellent climbing.
Comments: Awesome climb. To belay we stood on the small ledge to the left of the first bolt. The first bolt had a long draw with a locker on it, so the belayer cloved into the locker until the climber had climbed past a few draws. To get the climber back onto the belay ledge after lowering, the belayer tossed the climber a length of rope and hauled them in.
Comments: Very fun. There are still some creaky holds, so watch out! I noticed in general the underclings are sketchy, while the crimps and sidepulls are solid. Sporty bolting. We couldn't figure out where the 3rd pitch was, so we bailed.
Comments: I think the crux move to the manta ray is pretty height dependent. At 5'9" I could not figure out how to do it for the life of me. My 6'3" friend with a +5 ape index got the move really quick. Or maybe I'm just weak.
There is currently a sling draped around a horn right above the last bolt that allows for easy lowering.
Comments: I see people are going right of the bolt on this climb.... I went left and thought it was at least .11+ if not .12- (compared to other routes at T-Ridge). Pretty desperate moves off of an undercling and terrible side-pull to a bad side-pull to slopers.
BETA: a BD #0.75 and #0.5 protect the moves to the bolt nicely. I was able to climb up real fast in tennis shoes, place the #0.75 in a bomber placement and then jump back down.
Comments: What is the route maybe three routes to the right of Powder Monkey? There are some nice vertical cracks (BD #0.5~0.75 size) to a single bolt crux (maybe easy twelve) to a cool finger and hand crack?
Comments: I had more success on this climb than on many other routes at Thunder Ridge. I think it may have been because I was terrified of falling! My belayer was purposefully not looking at me, doing so would have caused him to stare directly into the sun! This is a good one for crisp temps.