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Crux Move


Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Phil Lauffen
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Total Points: 2,193
Last Year: 297
Last 30 Days: 60
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Phil Lauffen been climbing?










Contributions


All 2639 | Routes 35 | Areas 8 | Photos 257 | Page Improvements | Comments 438 | Posts 1387 | Stars 393 | Ratings 121
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Overhung Wall : Warm Up (5.11)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 27, 2011

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Comments: This is tough! What are short people doing at the second to last bolt? I was attempting a pretty desperate dyno. My friend who is 6'3" made it look pretty casual.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Overhung Wall : Warf Factor (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 27, 2011

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Comments: I didn't heed the advice for pants/kneepads, 'cause I thought I was tough. Turns out I'm not. On my OS attempt the kneebar cut me up enough that on my redpoint burn I taped over it. I recommend pants, kneepads, or being tougher than I.

Fun route!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Scorpions (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 26, 2011

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Comments: A good route, and I was more nervous going into it than I should have been. It is a safe route as long as the pin holds (but you probably won't be falling onto it).

Apparently I went the wrong way at the first bolt and climbed straight up the edgy face to the left of the bolt, instead of staying in the shallow dihedral to the right. I would say it's about 5.11 still, but if you think that is the route, the bolt placements seem really goofy, and the second bolt is really hard to clip.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Interceptor (5.11b R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 26, 2011

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Comments: I fell a good ways several times onto a red C3 in the green Alien placement mentioned above. I bent the $&%# out of it. I recommend either a flexible cam, like an Alien, or just going with the red C4 that's about a foot below that (I tested the red C4, it's good!).

The beginning is a little scary, and I did a lot of traversing around. It looks like there are two possible ways to go, and of course the other way looks easier than the way you are attempting at the time... a little sketchy. Y... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : 5.11 Crack (5.9+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: I found small Metolius offset cams to be useful on this climb.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Middle Parallel Space (5.9)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 22, 2011

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Comments: DO THIS CLIMB! Both pitches.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Max Factor (5.11c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 22, 2011

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Comments: Excellent climb. Easy for 11c 'voo, but maybe I just suck at anything wider than hands.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Touch Monkey (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 13, 2011

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Comments: The first bolt isn't a ring bolt anymore, but it still seems like it could unclip itself. The bolt is your only stop before the ground, so this is one of the few times I just put two opposing quickdraws on the first bolt. I'm probably just paranoid. WAAAAYYY easier than April Fools, but really fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : April Fools (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 13, 2011

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Comments: I think the name "April Fool's" is a direct reference to the grade. Also be careful between the second and third to last bolts, as mentioned above. My friend took two repeated ~30 footers right before the second to last bolt. It is solid 5.10 climbing there, and you are pumped from the insecure, slopey crux. It's all air, but my pinky jammed into my ATC :'(. He was probably 20 feet from the deck still, but the FA wasn't messing around with how the bolts are placed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Rain (5.10d R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 13, 2011

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Comments: Not 'R' rated without the direct finish, but be a solid 5.10 climber so you don't get freaked by the 5.8 and 5.9 sections with sparse gear.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : The Ice Plant : Super X-Ray Spectacles (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 12, 2011

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Comments: This climb has a short, sequency crux. I think this would be a good first 12a(and yes I think it is 12a).


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 12, 2011

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Comments: This place had the best climbing I did in 4 days at tensleep. If you go to tensleep... go here!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : July Jihad (5.12b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 12, 2011

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Comments: I thought the crux clip was... the crux! I think taller people should have an easier time of it.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Dream Land : Hooray for Boobies (5.10b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 12, 2011

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Comments: It almost feels mandatory to go for the one-handed anchor clip on this. Try it! Its a ton of fun!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Violet Blue (5.11c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 4, 2011

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Comments: Excellent climbing and position. If the rock were better on the lower portion of the 2nd pitch, and there wasn't such potential for a factor two onto the 2nd pitch belay, this would be a 4 star classic.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - left buttress : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 3, 2011

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Comments: This picture really tells me a lot about the route.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : South Howser Tower
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 29, 2011

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Comments: You cannot sleep anywhere except for the boulder campsite, appleby campsite, or Kain hut now. Be prepared for a big one day push.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : The Temple
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 28, 2011

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Comments: If you come in from old tensleep canyon highway, don't expect a 30 min approach. It was more like 1.5 hours of bushwhacking, with no stopping.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : The Ice Plant : Ice Station Zebra (5.10c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 27, 2011

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Comments: Its funny climbing these crack routes at tensleep and seeing the tick marks and chalk on the tiny crimps beside the perfect hand crack...


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : Atheist Childhood (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 27, 2011

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Comments: Easy for 11b if you have any semblance of endurance.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : Joy of Heresy (5.11d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 27, 2011

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Comments: excellent route. The most memorable send for me in my trip to ten sleep.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Upper Great Face : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: I may have pissed myself a little when I stepped onto that flake....


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Upper Great Face : The Big Steep (5.10)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments: Wow, really good climb, especially with the monkey finish. I went up there expecting tons of loose rock (as the crags look chossy from the road), but I was pleasantly surprised when I didn't pull anything off.

There is one suspect flake about 40 feet off the ground on the first pitch. It looks like it's attached by some lichen, but I really yarded on it on rappel, and it didn't move or sound hollow at all. The second pitch was extraordinarily scary, as after you clip the last bolt you have to s... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: For beta on the approach, Rob showed me a way that is a little easier than the 5.5 handcrack fs off the ramp. Keeping going along the ramp past the handcrack about 50 feet (20 feet past Touch 'n Go) to a large flake. Climb up this and exit to the right up juggy ledges. It is quite a bit easier than the cracks, and there is a bit of a ledge at the base that you may land on if you blow the moves:)

Or just be smart and rope up one of the many excellent pitches leading to the lower ramp.

Currently... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 5, 2011

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Comments: It is weird looking at this as the first pitch. Because of the snow we started up at the dihedral.


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