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Crux Move


Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Phil Lauffen
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Point Rank: # 274
Total Points: 2,113
Last Year: 225
Last 30 Days: 1
99 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Phil Lauffen been climbing?










Contributions


All 2627 | Routes 34 | Areas 5 | Photos 252 | Page Improvements | Comments 438 | Posts 1385 | Stars 392 | Ratings 121
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : Redneck Hero (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: In regards to catching a fall, it ain't so bad. You just get yanked a little. I would recommend a grigri if you are worried about it.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Top Feeder (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: Drilled holds suck. The movement was good though. And the mind control required to keep it together 35m up made it worth it.

Also, this is Rifle. What is the frequency of comfortized holds? Probably greater than 90% of the routes are at least slightly modified.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : Adventure Kayak Trundle (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 30, 2012

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Comments: I did not think it was that good. The top half is good, but the bottom half has some crumbly rock and an awkward and dangerous crux.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Grenadiers : Mt. Silex : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 20, 2012

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Comments: nuts are so tedious.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Patience Face (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 22, 2012

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Comments: Patience Face is an accurate name. Be patient when resting and deciphering beta and success will be yours.

I hate to say it, but we did it with a 60m. We got down to the top of the large rock to the right of the start with about 1 foot to spare.... Be careful out there and use a 70m.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Man Chowder (5.11d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: Excellent pitch. Throws a little bit of everything at you.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 26, 2012

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Comments: We climb up rocks, then we come down. Sometimes there are bolts in the rocks already, sometimes there aren't.

Some people like climbing up rocks in a particular place so much that they write a book about it.

Surely we all have better things to do than argue about which book about climbing up rocks with or without bolts in it already is better.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Ride The Snake (5.11a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: I thought this route was good. Sorry you got shut down.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Knot Carrot (5.11a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 8, 2012

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Comments: The nut on the first bolt was loose today, and the hanger freely spins. While I understand that this does not totally compromise the strength of the bolt, it sure didn't help my head with that as the only pro between me and the deck. Bring a wrench.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Pink Man's Burden (5.11d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 8, 2012

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Comments: Cleaned up the first pitch today. Ripped two holds off, both resulting in falls.

2nd pitch is sweet though!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 31, 2012

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Comments: I'd be more worried about a slip-down


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Blue Sky Mining (5.11d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 21, 2012

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Comments: Poorly bolted route that poses a risk for injury at the start.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Prince of Darkness (5.11a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 8, 2011

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Comments: I guess it's time for me to accept that gym ability has nothing to do with the ability to climb slab on slippery Eldo rock... and that I'm a punter.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Prince of Darkness (5.11a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: Felt harder than 11a to me. Everyone on here calling it 11a onsite it?! Or did you do it with beta?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Rise and Shine (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: If it weren't for the crappy rock and blocky, awkward climbing down low ,this would be a 3 star route. It's worth the time though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Magnetism (5.11c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 14, 2011

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Comments: Best sport climbing pitch in the canyon? I think yes.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : A Shadow Sickness (5.10)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: The slings were gone, so we added another. Please discuss the issue on this site before you take established anchors.... It was probably some newb excited at finding some gear.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Fluorescent Gray (5.11c R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: Great climb. The combination of powerful arete pulls and delicate footwork make this a fun climb. It feels a little heady as you have to make hard moves a ways above bolts, and reaching the first bolt is tough. The beginning crack is burly, punch through it for the best chance of success.

Thank you for updating the bolts!


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : Cave Rock : Main Cave
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 24, 2011

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Comments: A reminder of how delicate access really is. A group that deems itself the owner of a swath of land can decide that a particular activity is unacceptable at any time. Tread lightly.

"How can you buy or sell the sky, the warmth of the land? The idea is strange to us. If we do not own the freshness of the air and the sparkle of the water, how can you buy them? "~Guy named Ted Perry making up a speech never actually said by Chief Seattle


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Pretty in Pinkler (5.11c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 18, 2011

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Comments: Fun climbing. Crux low down at the third bolt right traverse, then fun, interesting crimping over bulges.

I'd say this is easier than April Fool's (11b!!), but April Fool's is a sandbag....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Pony Express (5.11c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 11, 2011

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Comments: A few wasps today, but nothing bad. I think it's good to go for the fall season!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Cryogenics (5.10a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: This route is ok... all right, it's pretty good. I don't understand the hype about it though. The first bit is awkward thrutchiness up a wide, rather rotten crack. Pro is less than inspiring because it depends upon small, cracked flakes.

Then after a squirmy no hands rest, it's a few moves of lieback to jugs. Classic? Maybe the most classic trad 5.10a at Independence Pass. But let's not get carried away....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: This route isn't in the same league of difficulty as Coffee Achievers. Kind of like the difference between the Barb and Pervertical, even though both are technically rated the same. Good Evans has some techy difficulties, but not the same gaspy, strenuous climbing that CA has.

Overall, great route. I had my crack climbing noob friend lead the 2nd pitch and he did fine with two 3s and a 4. There are other options for gear. Two fixed wires on the crux pitch, unfortunately.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Coffee Achievers (5.10+)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 4, 2011

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Comments: Fun route, though I wouldn't run back to do it again. Rob and I did it in 4 pitches w/ a 70m: Combine P1 and P2, P3 in the original description (I didn't encounter an overhanging hand crack...? This combo is interesting because there is a .10 section at the end of P2, right at 70m, so if you blow it you're falling on 70M of rope stretch into space...), a pitch up to the ledge under the crux, crux pitch to piton belay, then chimney to the top. The chimney isn't too bad, the worst part was the net... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Curve of Binding Energy (5.12a/b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 30, 2011

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Comments: Massive, drilled jug holds at the beginning. Way lame, and also completely unnecessary.


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