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RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan


Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Phil Lauffen


Point Rank: # 288
Total Points: 1,896
Last Year: 93
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Phil Lauffen been climbing?










Contributions


All 2563 | Routes 21 | Areas 3 | Photos 242 | Page Improvments | Comments 431 | Posts 1374 | Stars 373 | Ratings 119
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 4, 2008

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Comments: Incredible. The pitch after you belay at the tree is phenomenal. I was euphoric while leading it, managed to get a tricam, and a cam in along with the two or three pins I clipped along the way. Stay a minute and appreciate the EXPOSURE below. Not for the faint of heart, as a fall on the pitch after The Crow's Nest has the potential for some broken bones if you screw up. The rap can be done with a 60M rope, and in the wind. After watching the ends of our rope flail wildly about for a few minutes,... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Pine Tree Route (5.5)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 3, 2008

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Comments: Multiple slings and a rap ring on this tree as of today.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Whale's Tail : Jason's Argonaut (5.10a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 1, 2008

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Comments: I've led this about three times and agree that it is comparable with [Pockets a' Plenty]. However, I think if you stick to the right instead of crossing over to the left down below the crux it may cross over into the RRCOS .10- range...IMO.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : Smoother (5.7 X)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Sep 1, 2008

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Comments: Interesting climb. After bushwhacking around the area, we actually ended up behind the West Ironing Board. After some discussion, we decided to just go up a likely looking crack on the back. After the first ascent of Cobra Fang Power(5.7+), as christened by my partner that lead it (Probably not a FA but it's fun to pretend), we ended up on Smoother pretty much right below the two bolt anchor. So we skipped most of the hard, runout part for a juggy overhang with decent pro. After that it was pret... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 29, 2008

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Comments: I want to go!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Friday's Folly Direct (5.7 R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 26, 2008

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Comments: This isn't a climb to approach lightly. There is one 30 footish section where it is imposible to place pro and serious fall could result. This same section also contains the hardest parts of the climb. As soon as I finished the unprotectable part, I jammed about three pieces in within a five foot span to make myself feel better. Be confident at the grade and be prepared for what feels like a free solo. Come equipped with big cahones or lack of grey matter.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Baker's Way (5.3)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 25, 2008

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Comments: I definitely missed the step up and then the gully....but the gully I found farther up wasn't bad t'all. I feel this is simply a rising traverse of the First Flatiron. Don't worry too much about getting 'off route', unless it leads you into dangerous territory.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : First Buttress : Flash Dihedral (Knapp Versi... (5.7)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 24, 2008

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Comments: This felt really easy. I would rate it 5.6 at the most, maybe 5.5... I had to go back and do it straight up all the slabs without using the big cracks (on TR) to make it feel like a 5.8


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Direct North Face (5.9 R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 22, 2008

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Comments: I climbed this today, and was slightly repulsed and amused at grasping at a pile of bird crap for a hold. It was very solid, keep in mind. (Interesting question: what if an animal alters a climb in this way?). I went to the top and set up a TR by scrambling some fourth class terrain to the top and using about 20 foot runners. It worked well. I had a 60 meter rope and found that it was plenty long enough to reach the ground on the north side (though just barely if attached by single-length runner... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge : Don't Tell Mom (5.11a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 20, 2008

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Comments: Isn't this the same route as "Trail Route." This post contains the correct name and grade, but I was just wondering if there was one sport route at Ute that I was unaware of.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Inside S. Face (1st pinnacl... (5.9 R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 17, 2008

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Comments: Fun TR. Easy to get to the anchors from the west.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Second Pinnacle East Face (5.7 R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 17, 2008

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Comments: Zig zag. I slung the tree branch and grimly laughed about the probability of it doing any good. It was hard to find the 1st belay anchorage in my opinion. Kind of run out in sections. At one point on the face climbing in P2, I knew if I fell I would deck on a nasty ledge. This is why I climb....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 11, 2008

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Comments: Actually after looking at the picture again I realize I wasn't really on a ROUTE. We ended up chimneying up the crack kinda directly between the 1st and 2nd buttress, then squirming up the crack on the right. Weird route. Anyone know if it's got a name?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 11, 2008

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Comments: Ok, I feel kinda dumb for asking this but I was at the Elephant Buttress this night and we headed up a chimney onsight somewhere in the vicinity of the 1st maybe 2nd pinnacle, but I don't think it was the chimney listed in the 2nd pinnacle's list. We headed up a chimney until it got too wide then climbed up a crack on the south side of the chimney. The chimney itself was probably .7- but the crack was reaching into the .9 territory. Does this sound familiar?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Royal Arch : East Face/Royal Arch (5.4)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 8, 2008

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Comments: This is an easy climb. I soloed it with very little hesitation and it was fun to impress the female hikers I was with;)


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Grenadiers : Vestal Peak
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 7, 2008

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Comments: Me and my bud hiked out on the RR tracks yesterday to exit. We were seen only by one cart and the guy inside was chill enough to inform us how far we had left to go. So I guess its not illegal, but maybe if swarms of climbers start going out this way they'll crack down. Keep a low profile.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : North Side : The Ridge
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 3, 2008

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Comments: Where is this area? I find it hard to believe that the guidebook missed a bunch of three and four star climbs....


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : West Face [2nd Flatiron] (5.1)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 2, 2008

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Comments: Much like Andrew last year when I had no climbing equipment my tripping roomate and I would do laps on the Second Flatiron. The first move of the downclimb is the hardest. It's best to possibly ask a friend down below to spot your feet and just stretch out over empty space. Know what you're getting into before you free solo this route.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Side : West Point Crack (5.8 R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 30, 2008

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Comments: The third pitch IMO is a ton of fun. Much harder than the rest of the climb, probably 5.9 or so I would guess. Just be sure you get that drilled angle clipped!


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 21, 2008

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Comments: Is there any beta for Ormes chimney? Or is it not even worth it?


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Keyhole Rock : East Face - 2nd Tier : Water Gully (5.7 R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 17, 2008

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Comments: Led this today. I'd highly recommend you TR it, as the first bolt is high enough to lead to some broken ankles if you miss some of those first difficult moves. Fun route altogether, if short.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Southwest Face / Finger Fac... : Lower Finger Traverse (5.7)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 16, 2008

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Comments: I feel that this has become harder than a .7-- sketchy to the first bolt and then for the follower after clearing the last bolt. My second took a nasty pendulum fall!!


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : New Era (5.7)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 10, 2008

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Comments: Almost a year after the last post and I still feel that P1 anchor is solid. My buddy leaned back on those while I climbed. The pinhead below the crux made me nervous. I wouldn't want to take a fall on it, so I shoved a cam in as soon as I felt the need. Epic climb.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower : North Ridge (5.7)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 3, 2008

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Comments: Climbed this route this morning. Awesome exposure/climb. At the top me and my partner couldn't find a definite rappel anchor....Just two bolts and chains. No Rap rings or carabiners located on the end of the chains. We ended up simply creating our own system with a rap ring and sling. If someone gets up there and knows how to rap it without our junk and ends up with an extra ring, I guess it's just good climbing karma for us..... Don't know how long that sling will last with UV exposure. Be caut... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Three Graces : The Window (5.2)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 1, 2008

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Comments: Climbed this route this morning. managed to place some tri cams and some slings around a couple flakes. Also used a #2 and 0.75 cam. Good route, lots of exposure on top. There's a lot of ways to through/around the window, but we found it was good to belay the second up after the crux. Reduces rope drag. Airy straddle on the ridge. Both me and my partner thought it felt harder than a 5.2-- Maybe 5.4. The rock is crumbly and there aren't bomb proof holds.


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