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Crux Move


Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Phil Lauffen
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Point Rank: # 276
Total Points: 2,113
Last Year: 224
Last 30 Days: 0
99 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Phil Lauffen been climbing?










Contributions


All 2627 | Routes 34 | Areas 5 | Photos 252 | Page Improvements | Comments 438 | Posts 1385 | Stars 392 | Ratings 121
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Bauhaus Wall : Squeal to Stihl (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: Someone (not me) busted off the glued-on tooth that made the kneebar after the crux more locker this weekend. It is still a pretty good kneebar, you just have to exert more calf-pressure.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Siurana : ... : L'Escamarla (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: This route kicks ass. Dyno leading to pumpy crack and traverse to a beautiful arete. Yesterday I sent this route and my friend belayed Sonnie Trotter on his send of Estado Critico. All climbers need to go to Spain.


Location: International : Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri : Alabalik (Salmon) : ... : Parallel Universe (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: "rig"


Location: International : Europe : Turkey : Olympos : Hörgüç Magara (Horguch Cave... : Sahte Budist (5.11d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: This thing felt way burlier than your 11d rating would imply... but I think that the conditions I climbed it in today made it feel more like a 7b/+ than the 7a you're giving it.

Some critical holds felt like they were coated with mud in the oppressive humidity.


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Arhi : Eros (5.12c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: I skipped the 4th draw as it is a very difficult clip if you aren't an apeman. I also took the fall... and it ain't nothin to sweat about, honey.


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Sikati Cave : Laurent...y' a Quelque' un (5.12d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: Wild route. O-dub skillz may assist you in your quest to the rings at the top... or not. Easy to back clean the first 3 or so draws, which is a capital idea if you want to "send".


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Aragon : Rodellar : ... : A Cravita (5.13b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: In the Kalandraka guidebook, this is called A Crabita.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Scene of the Crime (5.12c/d)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: I think the first 2 bolts were moved to make it safer. I took a couple of lobbers trying to get to the clipping underclean at the 3rd bolt and was not anywhere near the deck.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Strategic Defense (5.11c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: It was scary getting to the first bolt... but there are options to rap in to pre-clip it if necessary. The scary thing to me was having ONE qd between me and the ground... shit happens. Maybe use a double locker qd.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Kubrick's : Lord Bullingdon (5.11c)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: I thought this climb was licheny, scary, and not fun at all.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Scorpions (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: The bolts are in terrible locations and make the crux avoiding tangling the rope in your feet and clipping.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Home Free (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: Clipping the bolt is scary going straight off the flake.... I don't really understand where people usually go on this.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Sheer Terror (5.12c X)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: As the fearless belayer, it actually is.

Maybe it is second behind the manky anchor ripping while I am screaming TAKE on toprope.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Sheer Terror (5.12c X)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: Heads up on the poison ivy at the base of the route.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+) : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: ^It must suck being such a tightwad.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : It's Time to Drink Beer (5.12a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: Who sez there ain't slab climbing at el rito?


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : Whipper Wonderland (5.12a/b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: This climb is scary, George. It ain't that overhung! You're in for a literal whipping if your belayer doesn't give you a soft, but short, catch.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul... : Lost Cities (5.12- R)
By: Phil Lauffen When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Bailed off this Saturday. Good news is that it is quite easy to do in 4 raps with a 70m! Bad news is then you have to walk out the gully with your head hung low.

What killed the psych for me:

1) Started off kinda feeling lousy.
2) Wetness on the 5.8 pitch below the crux scared me quite a bit (turned 5.8 chimneying into low .10 stemming with poor protection).
3) Realizing that if I got scared by low .10 stemming with poor protection, what the hell was I doing on this route?
4) Seeing the awkwar... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Buster Brown (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: Does this route have a chipped hold? It looks like one, feels like one... kinda leads me to think it is one, which detracts one star from the quality.

I wonder if that move would go without it. I think it would, but bump the grade up a letter or two.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Double Dominatrix (5.13a)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Awesome climb! 13a... probably not. Everyone I saw on it on Saturday used some holds out left at the 2nd bolt with a delicate traverse back to the right to clip the 3rd bolt. Perhaps climbing straight up is much more difficult? Also, there is an uncomfortable "look ma, no-hands!" rest in the dihedral.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Downpressor Man (5.12b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Almost clocked my belayer with a cherry pie slice sized piece of rock after the crux. Just cuz it's been there awhile doesn't mean some dumbass like myself can't rip it off!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 27, 2014

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Comments: I've done it in two pitches with a 70m a few times. I linked 1+2, 3+4+5.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : Battlement Crag : In the Line of Fire (5.10)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: Weirdest route I'm never going to do again.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Wall : ... : Photo
By: Phil Lauffen When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: I get scared just looking at that picture, mad Mike.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Astro Turkey (5.11b)
By: Phil Lauffen When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: Little freaky deaky in the crux. There's a great, blind #1 RP placement instead of a pin, though!


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