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Member Since: May 7, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact pfwein


Point Rank: # 4,541
Total Points: 89
Last Year: 7
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 573 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 54 | Posts 295 | Stars 188 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Milton

V4 6B (15)

Boulder

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Milton Boulder

Jul 19, 2009

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Bo precipitation.

Bo precipitation.

Colorado : Flooding : Post

Sep 15, 2013

on the traverse

on the traverse

CA : Inland Empire : ... : In the Picture (V4)

Dec 11, 2010

Matt above the crux after a good onsight.

Matt above the crux after a good onsight.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Art's Spar (5.10c)

May 9, 2010

up there

up there

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Botonga (5.9)

May 8, 2006

This is the route.  Real simple.

This is the route. Real simple.

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Botonga (5.9)

May 7, 2006

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Captain Beyond (5.10c)
By: pfwein When: Aug 30, 2014

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Comments: Warning detailed beta:
On the wide crux, I used my two big pieces (an old #4 Camalot and #4 C4) early in the wide section, got up to the sort of "rest" (with a foot out right) and saw I needed another similar sized cam to keep going. I was able to fit a very tipped out #3 C4 at my feet, lowered and retrieved my old #4. So, at least for me, you need either 3 similar sized big pieces, or space the 2 out better (which is what most people do I imagine; I put my fi... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : East Corner
By: pfwein When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: There are a couple other bolted climbs and at least one easy crack. Climbing was OK, not great. Hard for me to find the place--could have been user error, but I didn't find the info on this site or "The Voo" to be clear. This crag is not particularly close to Spectreman IMO, and I'm not sure why that's the reference point. Wish I had taken a GPS coordinate.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Rowdy Joe Bad (5.11c)
By: pfwein When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: I preinspected clipping stances on rappel, and they were all fine for my 5'7" self. I put a locker on each bolt, and it seemed intelligently bolted to me (although I had some concern doing the mantel below 3rd bolt, I don't *think* it was dangerous). Hard for me to say if anything has broken, but the crux edges were thin and seemed friable, and even though there was just one crux sequence, seemed solid 11 or a little harder to me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Gill Boulder : South Face (V2+)
By: pfwein When: Jun 14, 2014

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Comments: The rating may depend on how you finish it. I've never thought it was quite kosher to grab the "side" hold that is about straight left from the high right crimp, at least not for full credit. Instead, go up (and still somewhat left), and then sticking that move is the crux. Doing as I describe could be V2 I suppose, in the same way that Crystal Lift is V2.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Blows Against the Empire (5.11a)
By: pfwein When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: I put in purple Metolius in the crack I took to the big ledge before the first bolt, then a yellow Metolius on the ledge. The crack to the anchors takes pieces in something like 0.3 to 0.5 Camalot size.
As to the height-dependent nature, I'm 5'7" and could sorta reach the good hold, at least well enough to make the move. Seemed soft at 10d for me, but that's not to brag--I expect Eldo 10d to feel hard. I didn't feel getting to the first bolt was especially bold (in light of the good-sized hold... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Bidoigt (5.10a)
By: pfwein When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: My gear beta: yellow Mastercam (not blue, but I like 'em tight) after first bolt, then #7HB offset (i.e., a medium-sized nut) and 0.75 Camalot for above 2nd bolt. Braver climbers could probably just clip the 2 bolts and be fine (with an attentive belay), but if you're gonna bring gear, the above seemed good to me.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Two Jews Blues (5.10a)
By: pfwein When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Warning--climbing beta in post.
So I climbed pretty straight up between bolts 2-4 on P1; my partners went a little left there (where the face is somewhat less steep) and speculate that may be a little easier. I hesitate to add a rating as maybe it feels hard because of no warm up, and slabs can feel hard when you haven't done many recently. But, put me in the "no way is this easier than solid 5.10 camp." Beyond my subjective impression, I've been up there a few times and seen glum-l... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Steeple Peak : North Ridge (5.8)
By: pfwein When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Doing the chimney / tunnel "pitch" in one pitch seemed like a bad idea due to the way the rope would run--I agree with BruceB's comment.
Some topos I saw gave the tunnel an "R." I'm generally reluctant to say pro is good lest someone rely on that and get injured for whatever reason. But it seemed to me that solid gear was available with no terrifying runouts (no wide gear is necessary--nothing bigger than #3 C4--and it would take huge big bros, if that, to span the chimney/tunnel). To s... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : The Sun : Better Lock Next Time (5.10b)
By: pfwein When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: A few random comments, skip if you don't like info:

Description is good except to combine the first two pitches--that makes no sense to me. May be possible with extra long rope and/or simulclimbing (I think even longer than a 70m, although not sure about that) but only in the same way that almost any pitches can be combined. The "second pitch" (when splitting them up) is long and sustained, and not totally in line with the first.

Gear: an atomic rack would be something full set of nuts (did... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Dos Equis (5.10b)
By: pfwein When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: In case this isn't clear from the other comments, let me note that all bolts (to anchor atop P3) are "new" (actually 7 years old as I write this, but that's new enough). Much thanks for the work, see safeclimbing.org/areas/colorad....


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: pfwein When: Oct 20, 2012

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Comments: The trailhead is about 150 yards west of mile maker 73, and it is marked with cairn.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : The Flagstaff Amphitheatre : South Undercling (V3)
By: pfwein When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: Perhaps I just have this very wired, but it seems relatively easy for V3 compared to this area (e.g. Red Wall). 4 stars may be high, but it's got diverse moves, direct line, high but not too high. It's good!


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab
By: pfwein When: Sep 20, 2010

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Comments: Have no idea what the ownership of status of climbing here is, but I got a friendly wave from a sheriff who happened to drive by as I was hiking in with gear.
Whoever smashed the bolts has some real mental problems--other than injuries, one of the saddest things I've seen climbing.
Not a great place to climb on a hot, sunny day.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Golden Shower Wall : Pushing Two Hundred (5.11b/c)
By: pfwein When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: Eli H. wrote "Some public opinion polls have ranked climbing 3rd, behind mining and forestry as the most destructive activities on our public lands."

Do you have a link to those polls--I spent a bit of time trying to find them online and couldn't.
I don't have an opinion on the route one way or the other, but my experiences with non-climbing tourists is that they either don't care much one way or the other, or, more commonly, regard it as at least a mildly interesting activity (how do you get t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: pfwein When: Jul 25, 2010

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Comments: About the rating:
Pat Ament, Rossiter, and Levin's guides all give P2 a 9+ (Ament did the FA).
To the extent that any climb actually has a rating, Werk Supp does, and it's 9+, not 9.
If it feels easier than 9+, congratulations, you're climbing well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock
By: pfwein When: Jun 19, 2010

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Comments: Triple Threat = South Face (aka Jackson's Wall Direct), Country Club, and Athlete's Feet in 1 day. Needed some help from the rope on P2 of CCC and P1 of AF. All clean will be Boulder Canyon dream day.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Sunstar (5.9 R)
By: pfwein When: May 23, 2010

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Comments: I dunno, we did the first 3 pitches, I headed up the fourth about 50 feet or so, didn't like the looks of it above (the gear, not the climbing, which was no problem).
Downclimbed and cleaned my gear, then led out the gulley (exit on the right side), which worked out fine.

Levin gives it a PG, how about at least a PG13? Maybe I just wasn't in the right head space, but I'd say you should be ready for adventure climbing on this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : The Consideration (V4)
By: pfwein When: Nov 22, 2009

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Comments: Chip, my description was from an old timer, and it is a high quality problem as I describe it (I have done it, although not today). It's interesting that your guide doesn't seem to have the problem I describe: maybe I'm just not reading your guide right. I'd like to know the correct name, as it's a great problem, IMHO.
Peter W

Edit: What I describe is the same as "True Consideration" on Chip Phillips' website, except that you don't match on the "crimp rail," you go directly to it with your l... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : The Consideration (V4)
By: pfwein When: Nov 21, 2009

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Comments: Someone should add Reverse Consideration: I'll try to do that when I take a camera there. Basically you go up to the first ledge with your left hand, and then directly to the "left trending rail" with your right hand. You don't use what is described as the bad crimp. Getting your feet arranged properly is important.


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