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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : Chek : The Well of Souls
By: Peter Spindloe When: Oct 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fixed, thanks.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : Ronin's Corner
By: Peter Spindloe When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok, figured it out thanks to Randy Atkinson's topo updates on Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/41284976@N04
The route right of MCM is Satellite Dish which he gives 5.10+. I'll add it as a route later.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : University Wall (5.12-)
By: Peter Spindloe When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great contribution Evan! I can only dream about this one.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Squaw
By: Peter Spindloe When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went up to The Squaw for the first time this weekend. It's a fantastic area! The routes tend to towards vertical cracks, but there are some overhangs and roofs, and the rock quality is great.
There was a laminated sheet with some new route information at the base. Mr. Barley has been at it again. It appears that there are two new routes starting just left of the first pitch of Birds of Prey. I don't remember the details (I'll try to get them), but at least one of them was another 4 pitch... more >>
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Perspective (5.11a)
By: Peter Spindloe When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Long, varied and stout! This one isn't likely on anyone's downgrade list. Highly recommended.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Claim Jumper (5.12a)
By: Peter Spindloe When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun climbing. While it had multiple cruxes, none felt as hard as Sentry Box.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Squaw : The Great Game (5.10c/d)
By: Peter Spindloe When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic climb! Three high-quality pitches in the 10c/d range (plus a short easier pitch), each with a completely different character. I don't usually disagree with many of the one-letter downgrades in Squamish, but for this one I feel that 10d is appropriate.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : The Ultimate Everything (5.10-)
By: Peter Spindloe When: Jul 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tough to say whether it's a two-star or three-star. The climbing itself is fun but probably not three-star (except maybe the 10b last pitch). But for being a route that can take you to the top of the Chief at 5.9+ (if you aid the 11b last pitch variation) and combine with a lower Apron route to get a huge route at a very accessible grade, it's three star.
Although the topos show 45m pitches and rappels, the number of trees on the route means that escape with a single rope would likely be poss... more >>
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : Chek : ... : Spider Bite (5.11b/c)
By: Peter Spindloe When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this again recently and liked it better than the first time so I upgraded from one star to two stars. The crux sequence has a number of interesting moves with some thinking and balance required.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Climb & Punishment (5.10d)
By: Peter Spindloe When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb. The crux just after the pin determines the grade; it's not sustained at the grade above or below that point.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Rock On (5.10a)
By: Peter Spindloe When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I combined the first two pitches with a 70m, but would definitely not have had enough left for the third pitch, even if the belayer scrambled up to the first little ledge.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : Skaha
By: Peter Spindloe When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This book is still the only one, I believe. When combined with the supplement and link to parking info, both listed above, you have everything you need.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : Skaha
By: Peter Spindloe When: May 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The approach from the new parking lot is now much more kid friendly than the old parking lot as it's more level. It probably takes about fifteen minutes to get to the Day Care crag. There are still some uphill sections, but nothing like the old staircase.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : Photo
By: Peter Spindloe When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like Flying Circus.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : Ronin's Corner
By: Peter Spindloe When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a new bolted route on the slab right of MCM. I'll check the new route binder at Climb On in Squamish and post the information if I find it. It's about 10b or 10c, around seven bolts with a two-bolt anchor. It's a pretty typical Squamish friction climb requiring some full-on friction moves and balance.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs
By: Peter Spindloe When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There have been many changes in the Smoke Bluffs recently. The trail from the parking lot now runs closer to the base of the cliffs, avoiding the steep gravel road. This helps climbers avoid getting plowed by mountain bikers as that road is part of very popular loop. It also brings people closer to some often overlooked crags like Crag X and Easter Island. Trail work on the Loop Trail has also been very positive.
There has also been a ton of scrubbing, entire crags have reappeared out from ... more >>
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Location: International : Canada
By: Peter Spindloe When: Apr 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cliff,
The time of year depends on what you want to do. The summer alpine season (all the classic north face ice routes) are best in August and September. Nice low altitude rock, mostly sport, can be found in the canyons around Canmore: Heart Creek, Cougar Canyon, Grassi Lakes, etc. The season for these is probably May to October. There are many moderate scrambles (Table Mtn., Cascade, Lady MacDonald) and climbs (Ha Ling, Yamnuska, etc.).
There are campgrounds in Banff and Lake Louise, and... more >>
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : Skaha : Blipvert Tower
By: Peter Spindloe When: Apr 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some recent new route action, and clean-up of old routes, has turned this into a destination for ultra-long hard sport pitches. The color-coded bolt hangers give it a bit of a gym feel, but they actually work pretty well for the situation. The downloadable supplement at skaha.org has details.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : Skaha : ... : Slices of Quince (5.10d)
By: Peter Spindloe When: Apr 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Technical and challenging the whole way, but interspersed with rests so you can figure out the moves.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Fraser Valley Area : Harrison Bluffs, Harrison H... : Tubby and His Pal (5.11)
By: Peter Spindloe When: Apr 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This sounds spectacular; I'd love to see a picture....
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Location: International : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Chinaman's Peak aka Ha Ling... : Photo
By: Peter Spindloe When: Mar 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot!
The NE Buttress pretty goes up the left sky line. Sysiphus Summits, formerly the longest sport-route north of Mexico (24 X 25m pitches, sustained and up to 5.10d), goes up the face a little right of the sky line. Lots of obscure, scary trad routes up the face to the right; I really wonder if those ever get repeated.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Fraser Valley Area : The Old Settler
By: Peter Spindloe When: Mar 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice contribution Dru! Looks like a great area.
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Location: International : Canada : Ontario
By: Peter Spindloe When: Jan 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: jaysquared, there are some well established climbs in Killarney Provincial Park. Some are documented in David Smart's book Ontario's Finest Rock Climbs. Beyond that, I'm sure there are tons of other areas, although the information is probably sparse.
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Location: International : Canada : Quebec : Mont Pinacle
By: Peter Spindloe When: Jan 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are some nice rock routes here in the summer, including one that reminded me of Thin Air in NH.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : ... : Photo
By: Peter Spindloe When: Jan 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Joseffa took the photo, and she's in it? That's amazing!
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