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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (north) : Head of Sinbad North : Annakenna Tower (5.8 C1)
By: Peter Gram When: Mar 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this tower on 3/17/07. Good route, but a bit of loose rock to contend with still. The climbing is not bad to do french free instead of aiding at about 5.8 C0.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Northeast Face (5.8+)
By: Peter Gram When: Aug 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also didn't think the #4 camalot was necessary, or even useful. I think I placed it in an anchor at one point, but never needed it during the wide pitch.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: Peter Gram When: Jul 10, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This flake is bomber, I didn't find it freaky at all. If you want to see the definition of thin scary flake, check out Arm and Hammer in Bells Canyon!
Really great route!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Sinocranium (5.8)
By: Peter Gram When: Jun 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb works great as a simul-climb in 4 pitches. Combine P1 & P2 (~ 350 feet), P3 & P4 (~ 200 feet), P5 by itself, and P6 & P7 (short, 5.easy climbing).It took us just over an hour to reach the top with these linkups.
Also, there is a walkoff possible. It is somewhat length (45 minutes), but then you can leave the second rope behind. Continue along the summit ridge for a bit until a steep gully that looks doable drops to the climber's right. There are a few tricky spots and one rappe... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Hornet's Rest (5.8+)
By: Peter Gram When: Jun 17, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hornet's Rest is the crack system above all the other dihedral routes in the beta photo. It climbs up the right facing dihedral seen in the picture, then traverses the roof (shaded) rightward.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation
By: Peter Gram When: Jun 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not a local to the Black Hills anymore, so this maybe is common knowledge, but was news to me... As of 5/28/05, there were area closed signs on all the trees surrounding Emancipation. Anybody know any more info about this? Thanks!
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Bull Rock
By: Peter Gram When: Jun 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are 3 new routes on this rock, all near each other facing the old road through South Seas. Does anybody know the route names or ratings for these climbs? I found them all to be really good additions to South Seas. The bolt placements were smart and the climbing enjoyable.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : A Kat That Grumps (5.7)
By: Peter Gram When: Apr 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is easy to find. It is a continuous (although weird) crack system. It is the first protectable chunk of rock right of Parapalegic Ward. I just hit it by climbing Mexican and then scrambling up the low angle stuff above.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Barefoot in Barbados (5.10a)
By: Peter Gram When: Dec 6, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A red alien is bomber in the small left facing corner after bolt 1. Agreed, bolt 2 is a joke.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Monster : Picture Window : Gossamer (5.7)
By: Peter Gram When: Oct 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool photo Greg! That's an interesting perspective.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Sweet and Low (5.5)
By: Peter Gram When: Sep 11, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anybody know anything about this route? My guess is that the rating is 5.4 or 5.5. Fun route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Hollow Man (5.9)
By: Peter Gram When: Aug 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a 5.9 move on this route. Pretty sustained at 5.8, however, which warrants giving the overall grade of around 5.9. Lots of fun moves with jugs the whole way.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curve - Lower Wall : Melting Point (5.10b)
By: Peter Gram When: Aug 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has some really cool moves, but is not sustained at all. A tricky opening sequence leads to a long section of easy rock. The upper wall (bolts 5 through 7) is really good. Steep jug haul that makes this route.
Make sure to have a 60m rope for the rap. Otherwise, use the intermediate rap station just to the right for 2 rappels.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Breadloaves : Lower Breadloaf Rock
By: Peter Gram When: Jul 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe that there are actually 50+ established routes on the Lower Breadloaf.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Cavity : Stormy Night (5.7)
By: Peter Gram When: Jul 21, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route to the right of Stormy Night is Tranquil Evening (5.10a).
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : The Hook (5.8 R)
By: Peter Gram When: Jun 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just like the Hook Variation, the other 2 possible approaches to this climb are Schoolroom or Schoolroom Direct.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : Jam Crack Route (5.6)
By: Peter Gram When: Jun 13, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Apparently, there is now a rap route (2 ropes probably necessary) down this route. Chain anchors are in place approx. 150 feet up, and again up higher. Also, a big horn after 100 feet has rap slings to get to the ground with a 60m rope.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall
By: Peter Gram When: Jun 13, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last part of the approach is a little tedious. I had a bit of trouble finding the side trail up to the wall, but eventually figured it out. Along the way, there are 2 cairns along the left side of the trail. Take the somewhat obscure spur at the second cairn. This is right before a stream crossing. Follow the trail up through talus and maybe some bushwhacking to get to the wall.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation : White House Wall : Chemical Wire (5.11d)
By: Peter Gram When: May 28, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice pics... this looks like a great climb!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Hatchet Crack (5.7)
By: Peter Gram When: May 25, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor now has a bomber bolt, plus the webbing around the horn. It would be possible to rap from here, but it might take 2 ropes? From the anchor, a medium length pitch tops out Schoolroom using either Movie Variation or Schoolroom P5.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Goodro's Wall (5.10c)
By: Peter Gram When: May 24, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is one piton at the base of the roof, and another a short ways above on the face slightly to the right of the main crack. Neither one is probably worth clipping - bomber gear right near both.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area
By: Peter Gram When: May 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: No pitons on Pentapitch currently in May 2004.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : The Coffin (5.9)
By: Peter Gram When: May 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this climb again today. A couple of notes on gear. Where I mentioned a possible yellow alien in the description requires a green alien. Better yet use a comparable tcu because it is a narrow pin scar. And above, I recommend bringing mostly finger sized cams (.5 camalot or equivalent and smaller). Anything bigger generally doesn't fit.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress
By: Peter Gram When: May 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to clarify on the Coffin Buttress approach. Start as for Crescent Crack from the highway. A fork is encountered a ways up which has the right branch go into a water drainage (left goes through overgrown trees to Crescent Crack). This drainage is the trail. Follow this, eventually leading to scrambling across slabs to the base of the Coffin.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs : The West Slabs (5.5)
By: Peter Gram When: May 9, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I decided to give this 3 stars due to the overall experience of climbing this route. Cruising up the couloir is fun at the beginning of the day, and pitches 2, 3, and 4 are really good. The rest of the climbing is of lower quality, but the rock is generally really solid and the views of SLC are great.
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