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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Area A : ... : Public Execution (V9-10 PG13)
By: Peter Beal When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chip,
Who cares about Evans? Finish up Flagstaff already!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : The Industrial Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.13b)
By: Peter Beal When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Hank. I remember a quite positive edge/pocket that looked suspicious but if you know otherwise, that's fine with me.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : The Industrial Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.13b)
By: Peter Beal When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My recollection is that this route was chipped down low.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Eternal Recurrence (5.14a)
By: Peter Beal When: Oct 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good luck, Luke. I think with this snow it may take a while to dry. Let me know of you need any beta.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : RMNP Bouldering Miscellaneo... : ... : The Kind (V5)
By: Peter Beal When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps "Standard Overhang" was not the most original or memorable name to choose. I have always heard this called The Kind.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Hardboiled (V11)
By: Peter Beal When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Start matched on the low fin, RH to a pinchy crimp on the obvious little block, punch left to a small incut edge, RH to the obvious edge just over the lip, reach LH to a bad sloping, pockety edge, move right to the horizontal crimps, match, left foot over, reach for the sidepull LH and stand up.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Hardboiled (V11)
By: Peter Beal When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wonder which sidepull you are talking about. Most ascents go RH to the lip. I easily pulled off the original LH hold leaving a very solid small LH edge/undercling. I'm surprised to hear that might be flexing and wonder if it is actually the same one.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Central Wall : Forest of Fangorn (5.6 A3)
By: Peter Beal When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's Fangorn, translated as Treebeard in the Common Speech...
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : The Flagstaff Amphitheatre : Overhanging Hand Traverse (V1)
By: Peter Beal When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rating this problem is not easy but comparing it to the Red Wall "V3s" is even more difficult as none of them are actually V3 except in Phil Benningfield's imagination/guidebook. I wouldn't call OHT V3 either but V1 is a bit stiff. However that is typical for Flag.
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Banana Head (5.13b/c)
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't think it was b/c, doing it to the anchor 2nd try back in 1997. The low boulder problem off the ledge is really the meat of the climb. However that's just an opinion.
I don't see why an extension wouldn't go somehow up there. The rock is pretty featured; it's the quality of it that's the problem.
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Banana Head (5.13b/c)
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice addition Jay. Is the big bolt-on hold still in place?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : Chaos Canyon Bouldering : ... : The Potato Chip Boulder
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think you are referring to Geeks of the Industry, V7.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : Chaos Canyon Bouldering : Lower Chaos Canyon
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 800 feet is not much rise, especially given how mellow the trail is. The hike to the Satellites in Boulder is the same elevation gain a but much steeper hike to get to bouldering that is not nearly as good.
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Yellow Matter Custard (5.13a)
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember the anchor being over the lip but that was in the early 90s so things may have changed since then. I think the Big Pickle does what you describe but I was never interested so I have no firsthand knowledge.
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Yellow Matter Custard (5.13a)
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbers on this route may find a medium-sized stopper or Friend useful for the last 15 feet or so on the flake. The yellow line in the photo goes a bit too far left at the top IMO but anyone climbing this will realize the right way to go. Both this and Pastryworks can be readily inspected by climbing Frigid Relations which I believe joins Pastry Works' final flake. You can also slide over from the top of Romper Room.
There is also a more direct finish to YMC called the Big Pickle.
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Pastryworks (5.13b)
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great write-up Jay. I thought this route was one of the best 13s in New England.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great pitch but no harder than the first pitch of Buried Treasure. The link-up of the two is a pretty good outing for sure.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the consensus has changed towards providing accurate helpful information, especially after the Horan guide was published. I agree that the impact was substantial enough with just word of mouth, but I don't see the traffic really getting much worse with MP's info being added. Both Evans and RMNP (which I wrote up) are now pretty much out of fashion at this point, and I am fairly sure that nobody approves of pad stashing anywhere anymore. I think now it's better to have accurate descriptio... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Hobo Cave
By: Peter Beal When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Go to http://www.flagstaffmountainbouldering.blogspot.com/ for the full beta on this esoteric spot.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : Chaos Canyon Bouldering : ... : Warm-Up Boulder
By: Peter Beal When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I added the Potato Chip Boulder as a separate area.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : Chaos Canyon Bouldering : ... : Warm-Up Boulder
By: Peter Beal When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Re: +/- grades, the vast majority of guidebooks and boulderers have never used that system in bouldering, not least because of the super-specific nature of some problems with reference to height, reach etc. Thus what seems like a V7- to you may be V7+ to me and so on. My hunch is that most boulderers don't care for that level of detail and at most may opt for a slash grade. If the Potato Chip feels V6 rate it V6. 50 plus 8a entries call it 7a+ or 7b so V7 should cover it.
The Font grade idea h... more >>
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Pygmy Mastodon Boner (5.12a/b)
By: Peter Beal When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A lot of routes at Rifle seem to end like that whether you wanted it to work out that way or not.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Area A : ... : Clear Blue Skies (V12)
By: Peter Beal When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Clear Blue Skies is updated and I will change NMGG as that is how Luke Parady put in on his 8a scorecard.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering
By: Peter Beal When: Jul 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: great work on writing up these boulders!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : Chaos Canyon Bouldering : ... : Warm-Up Boulder
By: Peter Beal When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Potato Chip is on a totally different boulder/wall which should have its own write-up. I have no idea what the formation should be called but it is not the Warm-up Boulder. Also a suggestion about grades at RMNP: please don't use +/- on bouldering grades. Most of the ratings I have seen for PC are solid 7 so maybe the minus isn't appropriate anyway but in general it just confuses things. I would love MP to remove the +/- option for bouldering grades if possible.
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