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Member Since: Mar 5, 2006
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 9,990
Total Points: 24
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 185 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 24 | Posts 152 | Stars 4 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Winslow Wall : West Side : Barracuda (5.12b/c)
By: Peter When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: Probably not "Winslow classic", but still awesome. Looks like there is a potential of ground fall while making the 3rd clip. You have a pretty good rail for hands when clipping, but sort of crappy slopy feet. So just pay attention.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Winslow Wall : West Side : Vanilla Voodoo (5.11c)
By: Peter When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: A good warm up for routes downstream.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Winslow Wall : West Side : Beer Snake (5.12a)
By: Peter When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Crimpy and awesome. 4 out 4 stars by Winslow standarts, which means you have to get on it.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Double Clutching Wall : The Chronic (5.11+)
By: Peter When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Again, Waterfall does not disappoint. 4 stars out of 4


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Central Scrutinizer (5.11)
By: Peter When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: The blocks at the start are probably OK. But I would not want to fall before reaching the crack. Though climbing is easy. The crack section of the route is fantastic.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Winslow Wall : West Side : Slap My Fro (5.12b)
By: Peter When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: One of the best routes I have ever climbed. Probably 12b


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Bishop Crack (5.12c)
By: Peter When: Oct 20, 2012

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Comments: You most probably don't need a #6 Camalot for the chimney.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Wunsch's Dihedral (5.11)
By: Peter When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: There was a fixed BD #9 right before the awkward slot on Breashear's. I removed it yesterday. I can give it back to the owner in exchange for a beer or for free if you live in Boulder. I only TR'ed it, and all I can say it feels slightly harder than Gill Crack (on TR). Any other thoughts?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Max Factor (5.11c)
By: Peter When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: Someone compared this route to the headwall pitch of J Crack at Lumpy. If that pitch is 11c, than Max Factor is somewhere around 11b. The hard climbing section on this one is a little longer than on J Crack crux, but the moves seem to be easier. At least finger locks are much easier. This is one of my favorite route at Vedauwoo.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Puma (5.12-)
By: Peter When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: I was wondering, who called this a 12- in the first place? This climb is significantly easier than Maxfactor at Vedauwoo, which is 11b or so. Seems like some of the routes at Indian Creek have pretty soft rating. but what do I know? I got good tips locks at the crux, and this climb is harder for people with big fingers


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Fantasia (5.11c)
By: Peter When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: So are you supposed to climb directly up the bolt line after a big ledge? It seems pretty obvious to use crack on the left, and climbing is very enjoyable.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Taping Tendons (5.11c/d)
By: Peter When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Agree with the previous comment. The crux on this is after the second bolt, and it felt similar in difficulty to the crux on LPA, which is also after the second bolt. The rest of the route is a little less sustained. Both routes are 4 stars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Storming the Castle (5.11)
By: Peter When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: It is NOT a squeeze job or whatever. It is a pretty good route, pretty well bolted. Does not need any more or any less bolts. Definitely a good addition to Castle Rock. "One can easily toprope this line".... I am sorry, but this is dumb. One can easily toprope Gill Crack, but many people actually lead it or boulder.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Gill Crack (5.12a)
By: Peter When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: 11c/d if you know the beta?... I have to admit I led this one after numerous times on TR and figuring out the best way to place gear. So, it is probably a 12a grade for onsight, or something. Placed a 0.75 BD at the beginning, yellow C3 in the middle, and green C3 just before pulling what seems like the crux. I have not yet tried it, but probably bouldering it might be significantly easier than leading and placing gear. But you need two mats and a good spotter for it.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d)
By: Peter When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: I think the crux was the beginning of a long 5.10 pitch, right after you climb into a sort of dihedral with finger crack. But probably not harder than 10c. Traverse pitch is not bad, maybe 9+? And the pitch after traverse is definitely easier than the first long 5.10 pitch. Awesome climb. We also climbed it in 9 pitches with a 70m rope.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Blade Runner (5.12a)
By: Peter When: Oct 4, 2010

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Comments: I broke a hold on the lower section of this climb that resuled in a new foothold.... It seems like the route got slightly easier after this (better rest before going into the first lower crux).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Peter When: Mar 14, 2009

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Comments: For me the last pitch was definitely the crux, balancy and thin. I placed green Alien in some slot to the right of dihedral (I would not want to fall on it though), and then a black Alien a little higher. SPICY. and just don't fall....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Directissima (5.10b)
By: Peter When: Aug 4, 2008

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Comments: Is the 10c variation to the right of the first pitch done often? We climbed this variation and I had to clean cracks from dirt...but otherwise it is an excellent pitch. The old bolt near the crux at the 10c pitch looks very interesting from historical point of view.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Practice Rock : Regular Route (5.11b)
By: Peter When: Aug 1, 2008

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Comments: I am from Ukraine, climbed it with Paul in the evening, and also did not notice any grease....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Capitol Peak : Northwest Buttress (5.9)
By: Peter When: Aug 27, 2007

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Comments: You don't need a #4 Camalot on this route, unless you want to carry extra weight. the wide section is easy, and, anyway, it is too wide for #4.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : Southwest Corner (5.9)
By: Peter When: Jun 25, 2007

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Comments: Great route. If you want to get a free gear go do it. I found red Alien with a biner (both in very good shape) on the crux, the cam was not even stuck in the crack :-))
Crux feels easier than some 5.8s in Eldo, IMO. You climb on jugs. And it is VERY well protected.
Also, I am not quite sure whether new rappel description is accurate. We did one 160ft rappel (from bolts on climber's right side), then one 200ft to a grassy ledge. At the very end of that second rappel you will see some slings on yo... more >>


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Main Face
By: Peter When: Jan 21, 2007

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Comments: A wonderful line. Now, after I moved to Boulder, Colorado, I can compare some routes in Crow Hill to Eldorado Canyon, for example.
Intertwine, Cromagnon are better than some of the classics here in Colorado, for sure..



Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Positively Fourth Street (5.10a)
By: Peter When: Oct 8, 2006

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Comments: Led this route yesterday. I suspect it is not 5.9+ at all, better grade is probably 5.9- and really the direct finish is no harder than the rest of the route. It felt MUCH easier than the first pitch of Werk Supp, for example. Anyway, good climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : V3 (5.8)
By: Peter When: May 21, 2006

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Comments: Led this route today just after leading the first pitch of Gonzo. It felt definitely harder than Gonzo P1. Long, very sustained, and it looks like there are several cruxes on the route. IMHO, it is better not to use the anchor at the top at all, it looks quite shitty and hard to reach.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Possibly moving to Phoenix/ScottsdaleArizona & New MexicoPeterNov 4, 2014
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