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Just in case the two big belay anchors aren't obvious enough for you, here is where to find the belay station.


Member Since: Aug 9, 2010
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Peter Jackson


Point Rank: # 1,150
Total Points: 508
Last Year: 134
Last 30 Days: 2
11 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Peter Jackson been climbing?










Contributions


All (352) | Routes (24) | Areas (6) | Photos (22) | Comments (68) | Posts (135) | Stars (75) | Ratings (22)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Solar Collector/Gold Coast : Rebar (5.11a) : Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Phil! The route is really aesthetic. Hard to take a bad picture of it, really!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Anonymity (5.9)
By: Peter Jackson When: Mar 29, 2014

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Comments: I tightened the left anchor bolt today, but it'll continue to work loose until someone hangs chains on the hangers: when you thread the hangers and rap, it torques the hanger counterclockwise. I'm visiting from Rumney, so I didn't bring the gear to fix it right. If you want to climb this route and there aren't chains on it, bring a wrench or a medium stopper to back up with in the crack.

All that said, it was a nice route if you stay off the rotten stuff to the right.


Location: VA : Great Falls : Romeo's Ladder : Romeo's Ladder (5.6)
By: Peter Jackson When: Feb 3, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Michael. I updated the text to reflect the longer walk.


Location: NJ : Delaware Water Gap NRA, NJ ... : Triumverate Wall : The Rib (5.3 PG13) : Comment : Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: Whoa. Yes, a touch sketchy. :)


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Lady and the Tramp (5.4) : Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Dec 14, 2013

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Comments: Nice shot! Shyla has skills.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Left Field : Lowered Expectations (5.5)
By: Peter Jackson When: Dec 6, 2013

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Comments: While this route is a really easy romp, it was a great way to get a pitch in and start shaking off the cobwebs (since it's not *quite* a warm-up) while my friends were all looking in the guidebook and trying to decide what to climb first.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Rubicon (5.10b)
By: Peter Jackson When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: I noticed that the left anchor nut tends to come loose because the tension from a rappel on the rings turns the nut and hanger counter-clockwise. It's been loose every time I've topped out on this route, so I extended it with a couple quicklinks and put clips on it.

Hopefully that keeps things a bit more snug and keeps your ropes happy! Please don't TR on the quick clips. Thanks!


Location: MN : Robinson Park (Sandstone) : rock climbs : Relationship Wall : Stage Fright (5.12c)
By: Peter Jackson When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: Excellent name for a route. There's a scary route in NH called Stage Fright that has been repeated once. I figured I'd share: www.mountainproject.com/v/stage-fright/106820371 and a picture: www.mountainproject.com/v/106470046


Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : Tree Keys (5.6)
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Edited the grade to reflect the new guidebook rating and the consensus rating. My original post used the grade from NEClimbs.

Be careful when starting up the face above the blocky, broken ledge. Some loose stuff has pulled off of there recently.


Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : Anniversry (5.8)
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: I like this route, but it doesn't get a star. My wife and I climbed it this weekend for our anniversary. We'll probably climb it again.

The gear under the nose (before bolt 3) is not confidence inspiring: very rotten and shallow. If 5.8-5.9 is your top grade, I suggest a rehearsal on TR. This should be possible by climbing Gaggle of Geese first.

Guidebook says 5.9 but I think its either soft or upgraded because of the pro.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Orange Crush (retro-bolted) (5.9)
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Near the top, there is 9mm accessory cord coming out of a horizontal crack on the left. Is there a nut buried in there somewhere, or is it a thread? Super cool. Next time, I'm clipping it anyway. :)

EDITED TO ADD: Sneoh is correct: Citrasolve follows the line to the LEFT of Orange Crush. If you hop on the line to the right expecting a 5.10c, you'll find the climbing a little stiff for the grade (it's Tropicana, at 5.11a).


Location: NH : Rumney : Venus Wall : Venus Envy (5.10a) : Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: They look plenty strong: the corrosion is a bummer, though. Stainless would have been prettier, and would have lasted longer.

The new anchor is all stainless and looks solid.

EDIT TO ADD: Although I wish the person who replaced it had used chain or more quick-links. The rap ring and link configuration is a rope twister.


Location: NH : Rumney : Venus Wall : Venus Envy (5.10a)
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: I climbed this today and really liked it. The bottom was very sharp, but the business up top had more comfortable holds. Don't bail because of the sharp stuff! (It left me very bloody handed, though.)

Not sure who did the job, but the anchors have been replaced with all-stainless gear. They looked good to me today (although the corroded stuff in the photos also looked OK to me: plenty strong in spite of the rust). Galvanic corrosion was certainly part of the equation, but I suspect it had more ... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : Liquid Sky (5.13b) : Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Only if they are skin-tight.


Location: Evan Anderson : East Coast Craggin : Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: Looks like RhinoBuckets to me, kind of a ho-hum route. If you didn't walk too far uphill, you missed most of the good stuff. The Meadows doesn't have many classic routes at the 5.10 grade, but Bonsai, Darth Vader, Jimmy Cliff, Triple Corners, and Waimea do.

In any case, I do hope you had fun while you were here!


Location: VA : Great Falls : Dihedrals : Go Directly to Jail - aka P... (5.7)
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: Why is this AKA photo-op arete? Does anyone have pictures that illustrate the photogenic nature of the route?


Location: VA : Great Falls : Aid Box : Dark Corner (5.5)
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: This was my very very very first trad lead, back when I had no idea what I was doing. Plenty of trees for TR, but I made the mistake of leading on gear as a complete noob.

Fortunately, 23 years later, I am still alive and climbing much smarter. :)


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Sun Bowl (5.8)
By: Peter Jackson When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: "I am not sure what I did wrong on this route but it felt wayyy harder than 5.8."

You probably missed the dynamic move. (Or, if you're not tall, the dyno.) Give it another go! The hold you're gunning for is bomber.


Location: NH : Rumney : Darth Vader : Yoda (5.9) : Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: Heh. I always keep locker gates aligned when doubling them up (too complicated to explain why, but I'll show you the reason sometime). My wife and I could never agree on which way was better, so we compromised. One draw gets a locker, the other gets a wiregate, and the gates are opposed. :)

I think no matter which way you set your gates, the anchors here are a very welcome sight after the high crux sequence!

I like this angle on the route: don't see this perspective often.


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Granny's Route (5.4)
By: Peter Jackson When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: "The guidebook gives this an "R" for the protection rating"

I think if you somehow fell while clipping the second bolt, you'd get hurt. But honestly, the stance is like a ledge there, so it's unlikely to happen. Like many of Shim's routes, it's bolted safely-but-sparsely.


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Moe Pup Sensation (5.8)
By: Peter Jackson When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: One of my favorites. Nice climbing down low on ledges that look a litttle bit better than they are, to a balance crux with interesting one and two finger pockets. Topped off with an easy, but thoughtful and fun finish. If this climb is open and I'm walking past it, I always stop to climb it.

Also, though it's a mellow grade and the first bolt is down low, I usually stick clip: that landing is ugly and the start can be tricky!


Location: NH : Rumney : Left of Venus Wall (The Bra...
By: Peter Jackson When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: Matt if you are still interested (or if anyone else wants to know where these routes are), I have a hand-drawn topo I'd be happy to share with you.


Location: NH : Rumney : The North West Territories : Hocus Focus (5.12c)
By: Peter Jackson When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: Sounds good. Will PM you.


Location: NH : Crawford Notch : Lost in the Sun (5.5) : Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: The anchors above and to the right are for the adjacent climb "A Bit Short".

EDITED TO ADD: Also, I thought the tiny headwall on the last pitch was really fun, and the routefinding through the water streaks wasn't too terrible.


Location: NH : Rumney : The North West Territories : Hocus Focus (5.12c)
By: Peter Jackson When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: Lee is this anchor still a mank-show or did you zap in a new one? If it's still dangerous we can ask the landowner for permission to fix it.


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