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Just in case the two big belay anchors aren't obvious enough for you, here is where to find the belay station.


Member Since: Aug 9, 2010
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Peter Jackson


Point Rank: # 1,219
Total Points: 509
Last Year: 129
Last 30 Days: 1
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Peter Jackson been climbing?










Contributions


All 378 | Routes 23 | Areas 6 | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 79 | Posts 146 | Stars 76 | Ratings 26
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Rumney : Infinity Wall : Upper Right : Gettin' Started (5.6)
By: Peter Jackson When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: Sweet, thanks Tyler (and lee)!


Location: NH : Rumney : Infinity Wall : Upper Right : Gettin' Started (5.6)
By: Peter Jackson When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: Did they finally get around to putting in an anchor here? Or do you still need to use the alternate to the left?


Location: NH : Rumney : The North West Territories : California Chrome (5.9)
By: Peter Jackson When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: This is a great line, full of really interesting features and holds. After about 80 feet of cruiser terrain, the top was a welcome puzzler. Save some gas for the finish: it felt stout at the grade.

Very enjoyable. Now that there are two excellent routes right next to each other, I'd make a special trip just to climb this and B-b-buttress.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Arugula, Arugula (5.9+)
By: Peter Jackson When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Climbed Maltese Falcon, then FFF twice, then this route. AA felt harder than FFF to me. YMMV


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Far From Feral (5.10a)
By: Peter Jackson When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Not sure what I did differently, but I was able to clip the bolt in the roof from below without touching the crux holds. I stood further left and did have to downclimb a step to set up correctly for the crux. I'm 5'11" with a neutral index.

A 5'5" tall lady I was climbing with was also able to touch the bolt from below, but for her it was a stretch.

Maybe a body position issue for those having trouble?

All that said: wow, the crux killed me. Very hard for me to get the right position to make... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : No Money Down (Left) : Easy Terms (5.8)
By: Peter Jackson When: Jun 10, 2014

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Comments: Love the new glue-ins. Thanks Dave Q and Chris S for fixing them up!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Land Before Time Wall : Corprolite (5.8-)
By: Peter Jackson When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: It's been almost 4 years since I was there, so my guess is I either remembered wrong, or a bolt was added. Updated.

I can't speak to the grade, though I'll say that if I thought it was mislabeled when I climbed it, I'd have noted that in the description. There was a piece of notebook paper that listed the routes and grades posted on a stick when the area was being developed: I just listed the grade that was on the paper.

Given how loose the blocks on that end of the wall were when the routes... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Land Before Time Wall : Basilisk (5.7)
By: Peter Jackson When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: Super glad to hear it. The loose stuff was sketch-sketch-sketchy! I'll update the description.


Location: MD : Patapsco State Park : Ilchester : Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: He's not just on Blue Rose, he's getting the blue rose bruise on his right hand right now! Awesome shot.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Great Chimney (5.5 PG13)
By: Peter Jackson When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: Andy, I think you're right. When posting my comment above, I fell into the escalation trap. So for that, I apologize.

In any case, I left the mid-atlantic long ago, so I'm not familiar with where the noobs go these days. How about we edit the description to be a combination of my description and yours?

[ EDITED TO ADD ] I updated the description with your comments, bumped up the grade, and gave you credit in the description. If you'd like me to ping an admin to make you the route owner, lemm... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Great Chimney (5.5 PG13)
By: Peter Jackson When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: I have indeed climbed the great chimney. But at the time I submitted it to MP, I didn't know too much about writing a good route description.

[ inflammatory stuff edited out ]

When I climbed the route, the old guide listed it at 5.1. The new guide also lists it at 5.1. That doesn't make it suitable for a newb. The very best way to suggest an upgrade is to use the consensus rating on MP.

As the original poster of the route -- but not as the FA or guidebook author -- I felt it was important t... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Solar Collector/Gold Coast : Rebar (5.11a) : Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Phil! The route is really aesthetic. Hard to take a bad picture of it, really!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Anonymity (5.9)
By: Peter Jackson When: Mar 29, 2014

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Comments: I tightened the left anchor bolt today, but it'll continue to work loose until someone hangs chains on the hangers: when you thread the hangers and rap, it torques the hanger counterclockwise. I'm visiting from Rumney, so I didn't bring the gear to fix it right. If you want to climb this route and there aren't chains on it, bring a wrench or a medium stopper to back up with in the crack.

All that said, it was a nice route if you stay off the rotten stuff to the right.


Location: VA : Great Falls : Romeo's Ladder : Romeo's Ladder (5.6)
By: Peter Jackson When: Feb 3, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Michael. I updated the text to reflect the longer walk.


Location: NJ : Delaware Water Gap NRA, NJ ... : Triumverate Wall : The Rib (5.3 PG13) : Comment : Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: Whoa. Yes, a touch sketchy. :)


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Lady and the Tramp (5.4) : Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Dec 14, 2013

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Comments: Nice shot! Shyla has skills.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Left Field : Lowered Expectations (5.5)
By: Peter Jackson When: Dec 6, 2013

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Comments: While this route is a really easy romp, it was a great way to get a pitch in and start shaking off the cobwebs (since it's not *quite* a warm-up) while my friends were all looking in the guidebook and trying to decide what to climb first.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Rubicon (5.10b)
By: Peter Jackson When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: I noticed that the left anchor nut tends to come loose because the tension from a rappel on the rings turns the nut and hanger counter-clockwise. It's been loose every time I've topped out on this route, so I extended it with a couple quicklinks and put clips on it.

Hopefully that keeps things a bit more snug and keeps your ropes happy! Please don't TR on the quick clips. Thanks!


Location: MN : Sandstone : Robinson Park : rock climbs : Relationship Wall : Stage Fright (5.12c)
By: Peter Jackson When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: Excellent name for a route. There's a scary route in NH called Stage Fright that has been repeated once. I figured I'd share: mountainproject.com/v/stage-fr... and a picture: mountainproject.com/v/10647004...


Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : Tree Keys (5.6)
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Edited the grade to reflect the new guidebook rating and the consensus rating. My original post used the grade from NEClimbs.

Be careful when starting up the face above the blocky, broken ledge. Some loose stuff has pulled off of there recently.


Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : Anniversry (5.8)
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: I like this route, but it doesn't get a star. My wife and I climbed it this weekend for our anniversary. We'll probably climb it again.

The gear under the nose (before bolt 3) is not confidence inspiring: very rotten and shallow. If 5.8-5.9 is your top grade, I suggest a rehearsal on TR. This should be possible by climbing Gaggle of Geese first.

Guidebook says 5.9 but I think its either soft or upgraded because of the pro.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Orange Crush (retro-bolted) (5.9)
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Near the top, there is 9mm accessory cord coming out of a horizontal crack on the left. Is there a nut buried in there somewhere, or is it a thread? Super cool. Next time, I'm clipping it anyway. :)

EDITED TO ADD: Sneoh is correct: Citrasolve follows the line to the LEFT of Orange Crush. If you hop on the line to the right expecting a 5.10c, you'll find the climbing a little stiff for the grade (it's Tropicana, at 5.11a).


Location: NH : Rumney : Venus Wall : Venus Envy (5.10a) : Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: They look plenty strong: the corrosion is a bummer, though. Stainless would have been prettier, and would have lasted longer.

The new anchor is all stainless and looks solid.

EDIT TO ADD: Although I wish the person who replaced it had used chain or more quick-links. The rap ring and link configuration is a rope twister.


Location: NH : Rumney : Venus Wall : Venus Envy (5.10a)
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: I climbed this today and really liked it. The bottom was very sharp, but the business up top had more comfortable holds. Don't bail because of the sharp stuff! (It left me very bloody handed, though.)

Not sure who did the job, but the anchors have been replaced with all-stainless gear. They looked good to me today (although the corroded stuff in the photos also looked OK to me: plenty strong in spite of the rust). Galvanic corrosion was certainly part of the equation, but I suspect it had more ... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : Liquid Sky (5.13b) : Photo
By: Peter Jackson When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Only if they are skin-tight.


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