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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: May 19, 2014
Contact Peter Franzen


Point Rank: # 106
Total Points: 4,021
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 0
372 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Peter Franzen been climbing?










Contributions


All 1868 | Routes 162 | Areas 86 | Photos 176 | Page Improvements | Comments 187 | Posts 642 | Stars 423 | Ratings 192
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : New Land : The Obelisk (V9 PG13)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: This would be an all-out classic were it not for the annoying boulder just to the right that's just asking for a dab.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : New Land : Groundation (V9 PG13)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: Awesome, awesome problem. A quick campus move and a long deadpoint get things started. The crux is low, but don't underestimate the top even though it looks straightforward.


Location: UT : Ibex : Bouldering : Red Monster Area : The Red Monster
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: This is one of the more remarkable boulders that I have seen in my climbing career. Perfectly flat landings for all of the problems, and all of the problems are classics; even the traverse on the front of the boulder is great.

The topouts though... wow. You'd better be mantling at V7 if you want any hope of actually finishing a problem on this beast; prepare to be humbled if all you can do is pull down.


Location: UT : Ibex
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: The sign seems to be missing at the turnoff from Hwy 6, but the road is pretty obvious (first left after the roadcut if you're coming from Delta) and there are cairns at both the Hwy 6 turnofff and at the turn to get over to the main area.


Location: UT : Ibex : Bouldering : Topus Mountain : Topus Boulder : Topus Arete (V5)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: This is a truly fantastic problem. Don't miss it if you're out here!


Location: UT : Ibex : Bouldering : Red Monster Area : The Cow : Weigh Cattle (V2)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: I'd call this V3 in most any other bouldering area, but the standard Ibex sandbag rating would be a tough V2.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Northern End : Route 66 (5.7 PG13)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 23, 2010

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Comments: There is quite a bit of loose rock at the top of this route. It could use a good trundling before an unfortunate belayer gets tagged with a 20lb dinner plate.

Fun climb though.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Green Wall Essential (V2)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 9, 2010

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Comments: Agreed. Hardest V2 ever.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Happy Boulders : ... : Heavenly Path (V1 PG13)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 4, 2010

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Comments: What is the general feeling regarding whether this problem is chipped/manufactured?

I find it extremely unlikely that there is a perfectly spaced ladder of horizontal edges in the black patina (with a light scar above each one) right above the huge jug.

It's a great problem, but more than any other line here I suspect some manufacturing went into it.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte
By: Peter Franzen When: Feb 2, 2010

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Comments: There seems to be a lot of dry tooling going on out at the 'Butte. Some of the faces are scarred pretty badly.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rat Cave : Freakshow (5.14-)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 16, 2009

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Comments: Great send Ryan!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Monster (5.11+)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 4, 2009

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Comments: Well that makes me feel a little bit better about my effort. I thought that the opening moves were pretty burly for an 11.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : The Gift (5.12d)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 26, 2009

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Comments: There isn't a hard move on this thing, but it's still a tough redpoint since the smallest holds come at the very top. I give it 12c.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : The Glitch (5.12c)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 26, 2009

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Comments: I thought that this was a lot of fun up until the last 10 feet. The end is pretty out of character compared to the rest of the route.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : ** Bouldering in Icicle Cre... : Forestland Boulders : Busted (V8-9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 20, 2009

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Comments: That last little right-hand undercling is downright brutal. Super fun problem though!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 13, 2009

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Comments: This is an amazing area, and I want to thank all of the people who have worked on its development.

I was really struck by the rock here-- I came expecting the usual slick-as-ice basalt that we're used to in the Northwest, but I was surprised to see that it has an incredible texture that is reminiscent of the tuff at Smith Rock. Among other things, that tends to make the climbing a bit sportier than some other purely trad areas that you might visit; because of the abrasive texture the... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Gold Rush (5.10-)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 6, 2009

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Comments: Amazing route.

2 #3s, 5 #2s, and a #1 Camalot will sew it up.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : The Space Between (5.10+) : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 21, 2009

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Comments: Toprope photos don't usually do it for me, but this is a fantastic picture.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : The Sandbox : Worm Turns (V11 PG13)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 19, 2009

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Comments: V11 for sure, but I'm not so certain about that PG-13 rating. It's perfectly safe.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 18, 2009

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Comments: For me, that was the most exhilarating section of the entire route. Put in a couple of good pieces then punch it 15ft. to the chains.

Great shot!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 15, 2009

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Comments: A quick note for Squamish camping:

Camp sites at the Chief campground are no longer $10 each. It is now $10 per 2 people regardless of how many people are crammed onto one site. This makes camping quite a bit more expensive, and it is no longer advantageous for people to share their sites with others. Kind of a bummer, but I'm sure it's netting the campground quite a bit more money.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 10, 2009

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Comments: I ended up underclinging out around to the right on this section-- it was a nice little preview of the Sail Flake...


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Grand Wall (5.11a A0)
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 10, 2009

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Comments: What a fantastic route. I lead every pitch, and I agree with pretty much all of the comments here on the route. I nearly took a good whipper while hanging from the chains at the end of The Sword, and I think that Perry's Layback is by far the most strenuous pitch on the route; it can be aided pretty easily, although there are a couple of easier moves that need to be done at the top of the arch. I think that anybody who boulders at V4 or above won't have any problem with the crux on ... more >>


Location: OR : Willamette Valley : The Garden
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 1, 2009

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Comments: Steven,
There is a new bouldering guide for Carver coming out soon (it's done, and it should be released in the next month or so), but I'm not aware of a guide for all of Oregon's bouldering areas.


Location: OR
By: Peter Franzen When: Jun 23, 2009

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Comments: Thanks for the heads-up on that Jamie!


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