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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Peter Franzen


Point Rank: # 108
Total Points: 4,021
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 0
377 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Peter Franzen been climbing?










Contributions


All 1865 | Routes 162 | Areas 86 | Photos 174 | Page Improvements | Comments 186 | Posts 642 | Stars 423 | Ratings 192
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Time Share (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Dec 14, 2011

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Comments: I should add that if you're really going to be pulling hard on this route the belayer should wear a helmet.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Time Share (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: Do you like clipping off of holds that flex visibly and crumble under your feet?
Do you enjoy the feeling of knocking on a flake with your hand and feeling it vibrate in your toes?
Do you enjoy drilled-out and comfortized pockets in the only decent rock on an entire route?

Well if so, is this ever the route for you! This is the chossiest rock I have experienced yet at this area. The first 30 feet are actually quite fun, but as soon as the rock changes from red to white it rapidly degrades into ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: Patrick-- Yep, it sounds like we were the party in front of you; sorry if we held you up at that belay! We only stayed on the summit for a minute or two due to the wind.

The exposed class 3/4 section was at the very top, after the little downclimb that one would do from the top of the P6 tower. While we were making our way up it I was wondering if we took a wrong turn somewhere, but it did look like more than a few people had thrashed through the same shrubs that we were moving thro... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Desert Devil (5.13a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 26, 2011

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Comments: Pretty fun, with consistent difficulty all the way up. It's a shame it has been comfortized and drilled out though.

And thanks to the person who equipped this with nice shiny new chain draws!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : The Soft Parade (5.11b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 26, 2011

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Comments: I don't see any issue with how this was bolted. It seemed just fine while placing quickdraws on lead which is generally my litmus test.

Fun route, but the no-hands rests take a bit away from it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : The Pearl : The Pearl (V4)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 22, 2011

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Comments: V4, and probably the least-classic classic problem around.

Still fun though. :)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Monkey Bar Boulder : Monkey Bar Direct (V9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 22, 2011

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Comments: This is me on MBD. Kinda flailed on the finishing jugs, but I'll still take the send:





Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Great route. I did it in late November and we were in the sun all day; we left the Pine Creek lot at around 7am, took an hour and a half each way on the walk in/out, and were back at the car at 4:30pm. It was astonishingly windy at the top of the peak with gusts in the 40mph range, so the walk-off seemed like a better option than rappelling.

A few thoughts:

1. You could do the entire route on a double set of nuts and a bunch of slings & quickdraws. I had a single set of cams up to... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Mesa Verde Wall : Palo Verde (5.13a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 17, 2011

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Comments: This has been freed at 5.13a.

FA: Tim Garland


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 17, 2011

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Comments: Lots of rotten rock here, even on the more established routes.

Great place to get out of the sun though!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : The Mangler (5.11b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 15, 2011

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Comments: I found this to be a really nice route. I didn't have any issues with the bolting, but I'm 6'1" so the crux down low was not as much as an issue as it probably is with shorter people.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Pit (aka Le Petit Verdo... : The White Wall : Fruit Bowl (5.11)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: Marred only by the big loose blocks in the crack. Lots of fun otherwise!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 21, 2011

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Comments: Can some more basic info be added to this area? Is it a reasonable day trip from Phoenix, or does the drive & approach mean that a full weekend is a better way to climb here? Any updates on the road, or is a 4x4 still necessary?


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 Areas : Jacks Canyon : Casino Cliffs : High Roller (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: V4 to a 5.7 topout doesn't quite add up to 5.12 in my book. Still fun though.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 Areas : Jacks Canyon : Main Wall : Power Trip (5.11c)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: This is the single most manufactured route I've ever seen. Pretty sad.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Bouldering Northern Arizon... : Priest Draw : Priest Draw : ... : The Hermit (V5)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: Apparently this is also known as The Hobbit.


Location: WA
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: I have moved Beacon Rock to the Oregon section of MP. Please see its page for more details.

-Peter


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Bouldering
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 24, 2011

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Comments: I see no problem with adding the rest of Carver's boulder problems to the site. There was a guidebook being written a couple of years ago by a friend of mine, but it was never released; there's no need to worry about secrecy here as long as people realize that everything is on private property.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Mt Triumph
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 28, 2011

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Comments: Yep, absolutely right. It has been moved here to the North Cascades area.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Dec 14, 2010

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Comments: One of Portland's finest just managed to rip off a crux undercling this weekend.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Picnic Lunch Wall : Free Picnic Lunch Wall (5.12d PG13)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jul 15, 2010

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Comments: This sounds awesome!

Any hope that it will clean up significantly after a few seasons, or is it always going to have flaking/muddy/kitty litter sections?


Location: OR : Willamette Valley : The Garden
By: Peter Franzen When: Jun 29, 2010

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Comments: I'll approve the comments regarding the "real" names and grades for these problems, with one piece of Administrator advice:

If you write an "underground" guidebook, don't get all annoyed when people don't know about it and follow its conventions. Lots of people climb at The Garden who are totally unaware of any guidebooks, especially undergound/secret/low-profile ones..


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Northwest Face : ... : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Jun 17, 2010

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Comments: Best view in the park!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Northeast Face : White Satin (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 16, 2010

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Comments: The fantastic third pitch makes you forget all about the nasty first pitch. I recommend the .10c bolted variation for the 2nd pitch.

We rapped WIMR in 3 parts with one rope. Pretty casual.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : New Land
By: Peter Franzen When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: Any word on how that project just above Groundation is going? Has anybody sent it yet?


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