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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: May 19, 2014
Contact Peter Franzen


Point Rank: # 108
Total Points: 4,021
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 0
375 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Peter Franzen been climbing?










Contributions


All 1865 | Routes 162 | Areas 86 | Photos 174 | Page Improvements | Comments 186 | Posts 642 | Stars 423 | Ratings 192
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Stegasaur, The : Stegasaur (V8)
By: Peter Franzen When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: It might feel more like V8 if you start with your feet towards the cave. With feet facing out it feels more like a 5 or a 6.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon
By: Peter Franzen When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: I was there over the weekend and didn't notice any mosquitoes.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: This is quite possibly the most serene and wonderful sport climbing area I've ever been to. We had it to ourselves on a stormy holiday weekend. Wonderful, wonderful place.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Headache Area : The Headache (5.10+)
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: Magnificent route! Despite rapping off in an exciting thunder storm we had a great time on all 3 pitches. Our rack consisted of:

- A handful of sub-finger Metolius Mastercams and 2 BD .5s
- 3 each of: BD 0.75, 1, 2
- 2 BD #3s
- A medium Metolius Super cam (great for the wide-ish spots)
- A set of nuts

Superb climbing throughout, although we both agreed that P2 was the most fun.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Bouldering Northern Arizona : The Anvil Boulders : Alien Baby Right (V9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: This has been completely defaced with scratched-in graffiti. Lovely.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Cracker Jack Cliffs : Hijacked (5.12b)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: I also got on this because of the guidebook's recommendation. The bottom section was fun, but the crux section wasn't enjoyable. Meh.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles
By: Peter Franzen When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: A few helpful hints for anyone heading up here for the first time:

- There is no cell phone service anywhere close to The Needles
- The nearest place that reliably has gas is Camp Nelson. Even on Memorial Day weekend the Ponderosa was out, so make sure you have plenty before heading up
- The road was no problem for a Subaru with AWD, but you might have trouble in a couple of spots with something less capable

And we thought that driving up Hot Springs Road (M-56) from Ducor, CA was a much bett... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Igor Unchained (5.9+)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Triple #1s and #2s would be good, but I wouldn't bring more than 2 of anything else. Great route.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Guacamole (5.11-)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 28, 2013

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Comments: I ripped a good sized plate out of the bottom of this today. I don't think there was any other loose rock in there, but be careful nonetheless.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Fall Line (5.13-) : Photo
By: Peter Franzen When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments: Great picture. Did you take this with a true tilt/shift lens?


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Paradise Lost (5.12- PG13)
By: Peter Franzen When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Awesome route, but I thought it felt hard for the grade. If Davidson's Dihedral is 11+ I don't see how this is just a fraction of a grade harder at 12-.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : The Fortress
By: Peter Franzen When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: Just chiming in here because I'd love to see some organization for this area as well. I was up there yesterday for the first time, and between this site and Squeezing The Lemmon II there was essentially no useful information for The Fortress. We found some cool climbs (a bunch of nice vertical sport climbs at the base of the Right Fortress) but I have no idea what they were.

Putting "dead tree" on a topo is f'ing useless if I can see 15 dead trees from any given place at the base of a wall.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rat Cave
By: Peter Franzen When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: AKA "The Office" and "The Matt Cave"


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : Sky Valley
By: Peter Franzen When: May 27, 2012

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Comments: The directions to this crag (or lack thereof-- there's only a misleading map or two) in the Squeezing the Lemon book are terrible. I guess if you're on this page that doesn't really matter, but we tried to follow the book and ended up totally turned around.

The book doesn't mention that you should park at the San Pedro pullout, and it shows the trails leading up from somewhere further up the road.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Space Cowboy (5.9+)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 27, 2012

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Comments: This route is abysmally bad, and I found virtually nothing redeeming about it. The rock is solid, so I guess that's good.

The movement is terrible, the bolt placements are bad, the protection isn't great, and it's just not fun. I'd avoid it if at all possible.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Surrender Dorothy (5.10+)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 27, 2012

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Comments: I agree with the previous comments. Punishing start with wonderful climbing above.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Shalaylay Direct (5.11c)
By: Peter Franzen When: May 8, 2012

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Comments: The last bit is cruxy, but unfortunately the rock up there is pretty mungy. It would be a lot more fun if the crux slab moves were on the high-quality grainy granite found elsewhere at PP instead of the baked crusty stuff.

Still a fun route though, with a very cool position.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sweet Pain (5.12a)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: Definitely not a 5.12, but fun all the same.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: This is nice and shady when the rest of the 2nd pullout is in the sun in the afternoon.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Y-Crack Boulder : Y Crack (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 19, 2012

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Comments: Big bros? It would be a lot easier to just slide a #6 with you for the first 15 feet before leaving it and placing a #5.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Silhouette (5.8)
By: Peter Franzen When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments: Nice slab! Pecker Party and Silhouette made for a nice trip to the top.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Owl Rock : Nightstalker (5.9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Feb 20, 2012

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Comments: This was a lot of fun. I placed a #0.5 a bit above the first bolt, then a #4, a #2, and a few slung chickenheads above that.

The technical crux is up higher, but the most intense move is probably clipping that first bolt.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte
By: Peter Franzen When: Feb 9, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, the scars are definitely from dry-tooling. It's pretty easy to tell the difference between axe/crampon scars and bullet scars.

And wow-- that statement sure says something about this place, doesn't it!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Sullivan's Canyon
By: Peter Franzen When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: Fun place as long as you can ignore the attitude thrown about by the Flagstaff "locals".


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Bouldering Northern Arizona : The Anvil Boulders : Mars Attacks (V9)
By: Peter Franzen When: Jan 11, 2012

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Comments: A bunch of people were calling this problem "Pinch Test" this weekend.


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