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Leading The Nose @ Looking Glass Rock, North Carolina


Member Since: Jan 27, 2008
Last Visit: Sep 8, 2014
Contact Pete Hunt


Point Rank: # 710
Total Points: 900
Last Year: 100
Last 30 Days: 0
23 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Pete Hunt been climbing?










Contributions


All 353 | Routes 39 | Areas 5 | Photos 80 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts 6 | Stars 188 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne)
By: Pete Hunt When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: To anyone planning to climb at Blue Mounds in the near future, the park is officially closed through July 13 due to flood damage. A park ranger we spoke with said this includes climbing, not just camping.

The DNR Blue Mounds page can be found here:
dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/bl...


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : Orc Wall : First Blood Part II (Shoshi... (5.10a)
By: Pete Hunt When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Right on Doug, I agree that it should be pulled. Kinda weird how it just popped up on a relatively low traffic route. I'll keep my eye out for any other bolts being added to the area but my guess is it will be an "isolated incident" as you put it.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : Orc Wall : First Blood Part II (Shoshi... (5.10a)
By: Pete Hunt When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: Here are pics of the said bolt. At least it's in a spot that as far as I remember was previously unprotectable.

Bolt zoomed in
Bolt zoomed in


Bolt zoomed out
Bolt zoomed out



Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : Orc Wall : First Blood Part II (Shoshi... (5.10a)
By: Pete Hunt When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: Whoa, really? That's unfortunate. Bolting is not allowed at Blue Mounds and to my knowledge that is the first one in the whole park (not for you Doug obviously but to new visitors of the area.)


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : Kanaranzi Buttress (South F... : Kanaranzi Corner (5.7)
By: Pete Hunt When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: I wasn't super psyched on this lead. The crux at the top is difficult to protect and would be kinda ugly even if your pro held. Good route, but maybe better as a top rope.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : Kanaranzi Buttress (East Fa... : Purgatory (5.11a) : ... : Photo
By: Pete Hunt When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: Right on, I hope you get the chance to get back on it for the send!!


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : Kanaranzi Buttress (East Fa... : Purgatory (5.11a) : ... : Photo
By: Pete Hunt When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Yes, thanks Doug! My friend Jesse led it and I did a grand job of belaying him. The pro is good the whole way, except a bit run out at the top, but from what I remember it was a bomber horizontal cam as the last piece and you're far off the ground. There's also a somewhat committing section near the middle, getting fairly high above a micro nut before placing the next gear. Overall I think it's a reasonable lead for the 5.11 trad leader.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : Kanaranzi Buttress (East Fa... : Purgatory (5.11a)
By: Pete Hunt When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: Here is the rack you'll need for leading Purgatory. Notice the crucial micro nut. Replace the #1 Camalot with a 0.75 (for a total of two 0.75's). Big fall potential at top but would be pretty clean. Photo courtesy Jesse Littleton.

Here is the rack you'll need for leading Purgatory.  Notice the crucial micro nut.  Replace the #1 Camalot with a 0.75 (for a  total of two 0.75's).  Big fall potential at top but would be pretty clean.  Photo courtesy Jesse Littleton.
Here is the rack you'll need for leading Purgatory. Notice the crucial micro nut. Replace the #1 Camalot with a 0.75 (for a total of two 0.75's). Big fall potential at top but would be pretty clean. Photo courtesy Jesse Littleton.



Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Mini Fortress Area : Square Block Buttress : Watch My Monkey (5.11-)
By: Pete Hunt When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: This thing is super fun! It's almost doable as a highball V2/V3 by someone really solid at the grade, though just about everyone (including me) would want to rope up.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Mini Fortress Area : Square Block Buttress : Nemesis (5.9)
By: Pete Hunt When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Just a heads up that this is 5.10b in Mike's new guidebook. I thought it felt harder than that.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Prairie Walls Area : 9. Chimney Buttress : Poika (5.11a) : Photo
By: Pete Hunt When: Mar 22, 2013

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Comments: Hahah, if only it were true.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Mini Fortress Area : L-Buttress : Loose Rock (5.8)
By: Pete Hunt When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: Cool, thanks for your input Roy and nice job on the lead!


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : Primitive Buttress : Death Scream (5.10c/d)
By: Pete Hunt When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, it's brutal! I also can't deny that your description in your original comment is pretty accurate.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Prairie Walls Area : 6. Midnight Buttress : Easy Street (5.6)
By: Pete Hunt When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: If you follow the crack which goes straight up from the ground to the top (known as The Obvious Crack, 5.7 - different first half as Easy Street, same finish... really a better line overall) it makes for a decent lead. You'll need a big piece such as a 5" cam to protect the final moves. A 4" cam also works great for the bottom part.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : Primitive Buttress : Death Scream (5.10c/d)
By: Pete Hunt When: Mar 4, 2012

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Comments: I agree that the climbing isn't elegant, but I enjoy the grunting required to send this thing. And I think most would agree that it is tough for the rating. When I'm the first to contribute a route I generally just put the established (guidebook) rating.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Prairie Walls Area : 2. Yellow Lichen Buttress : Yellow Lichen Crack (5.9)
By: Pete Hunt When: Mar 4, 2012

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Comments: Hey Taylor, I think we were right around the corner from you guys when you led this last spring. Must have been hard to stop and find stances to place gear on this thing, nice work!


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Prairie Walls Area : 9. Chimney Buttress : X (5.8)
By: Pete Hunt When: Jan 13, 2012

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Comments: Nice lead with good pro. Bring a set of nuts for the numerous constrictions in the crack. Cams from .75" to 1" are also useful.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : Kanaranzi Buttress (East Fa... : Crazy Crack (5.7)
By: Pete Hunt When: Jan 6, 2012

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Comments: Great lead... bring #2 and #3 Camalots if you have them. The #3's are great higher up. Those two sizes alone will protect the second half of the climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Owl Prow : ... : Photo
By: Pete Hunt When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: This should be published! Oh, wait...


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : Primitive Buttress : Old World Monkey (5.10c)
By: Pete Hunt When: May 11, 2011

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Comments: Hey Doug,

I think it's a cool route and worth doing. It's a bit licheny higher up, but with a little bit of traffic it should clean up. Let me know what you think if you get on it, and I'd be curious about any rating input as well.


Location: MN : Mankato Area (Mankato)
By: Pete Hunt When: Feb 19, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for adding all the ice routes Brendan! My buddy and I may try to get out once more this season if it cools down again. If so, we'll give you a heads up.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : Kanaranzi Buttress (East Fa... : Kanaranzi Right (5.9+)
By: Pete Hunt When: Feb 19, 2011

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Comments: Thanks Blake! I've always been curious what Mike and the route contributor on here meant by it, though I have a few ideas and I think one of them must be it.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne)
By: Pete Hunt When: Feb 19, 2011

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Comments: I agree with Doug about the long webbing! It is very useful for building anchors at Blue Mounds since you'll often have to go far back from the cliff edge for placements. Bring plenty if you want to make things easier on yourself or create multiple anchors.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Prairie Walls Area : 9. Chimney Buttress : Bushmaster (5.8)
By: Pete Hunt When: Feb 19, 2011

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Comments: I agree, it is a lot of fun to finish this climb by working right once at the big ledge, finishing on the massive block at the top. I also think this is necessary to earn the 5.8 rating. Also, the juggy roof can feel like 5.6 with the effective use of a drop-knee and the move feels great.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Fantasia (5.9) : Photo
By: Pete Hunt When: Aug 28, 2010

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Comments: Thanks!


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