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Member Since: Apr 30, 2012
Last Visit: 32 mins ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 33 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 2 | Posts 31 | Stars | Ratings

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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Rock Warrior (5.10b R)
By: pete cutler When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: The first pitch is the only scary one. and it is scary. I remember it having slab moves on poor rock with 60 foot ground fall potential. The rest of the route however was kick ass - enough pro to be safe but runout enough to keep your attention and keep the excitement level high

I remember thinking that you could climb the first pitch of Dream of Wild Turkeys and then traverse like 8 feet over the the first bolt on Rock warrior. You skip the dangerous climbing and don't miss any of the good ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)
By: pete cutler When: Jan 27, 2013

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Comments: climbed the route in november and agree with the above poster. The first pitch has serious runouts and some real climbing in the 'no fall zone,' be sure to be very solid on 5.9 OW / squeeze.

That said, its a desert tower so maybe that is to be expected anyways. I highly recommended the route if you're comfortable with runouts at the grade. And leave most of the rack behind. a few finger to hand cams cover the few gear placements on the route - don't haul a heavy rack through the chimneys!