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Member Since: Aug 21, 2001
Last Visit: Feb 14, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 110 | Routes 29 | Areas 3 | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 46 | Posts 3 | Stars 29 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: pete cogan When: Oct 5, 2007

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Comments: Found pitch 2 arduous. Found that having a #4 was very helpful in protecting the last, awkward (for me) moves before anchors. Was very happy I had it with me.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Hummingbird Way aka Snively... (5.9)
By: pete cogan When: Sep 26, 2004

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Comments: You can also rap this route on a 60m rope. On the first pitch there's a wire cable around a huge rock. On the second pitch there are two bolts -- and now two equalized pieces of webbing and rap rings.

Difficult climb for the grade.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Hand Job Direct (5.9)
By: pete cogan When: Sep 6, 2004

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Comments: A couple of #3.5 Camalots could also help you here, along with the three larger hexes.

You can also rap the route with 2 ropes.

Terrific pitch.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Turf Spreader (5.11b)
By: pete cogan When: Aug 28, 2004

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Comments: The fixed gear and all the webbing are gone at the top of P3, the 5.8 crack. There's a new bolt up there with a rap ring, and we added some webbing/link so you have two pieces to rap from.

Great climbing.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Skull (5.10a)
By: pete cogan When: Aug 21, 2004

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Comments: This route can easily be done in one pitch. The only reason to set a belay is if you want to clip into bird-crap coated slings in a reeking, festering spot. Not a good enough reason.


Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : Pete and Benz (5.7)
By: pete cogan When: Aug 2, 2004

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Comments: There is a 2 bolt anchor at 100 feet. You can just rap it with a 60m rope. Fun route.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Lost in Space (5.9)
By: pete cogan When: Jul 27, 2004

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Comments: Did this today and did Not get lost in space, mainly because of all the helpful info above. Thanks.

A thought on P1: we went out about 150 feet, and set up an anchor that is at the same level as the big tree which will be 20 feet or so on your left. This puts you right below the crack that can start the second pitch.

Another descent option: head NW from the top, then cut hard E above a very large tree. Then you can head down a gully to the ground.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Leftovers : Too Much Crack (5.10-)
By: pete cogan When: Jun 2, 2004

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Comments: "2nd pitch" traverse: truly a dangerous, dumb idea. Your one piece pulls on the traverse, and now you are falling on anchors, 100 feet up, with very little rope out. Huge forces.

Better idea: run the first pitch past the crack, do the traverse, and if you do lose it on the traverse, you've got 100' of rope out and lots of gear backing you up.

It's good to have friends tell you when you do something stupid. Still learning.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Leftovers : Too Much Crack (5.10-)
By: pete cogan When: May 31, 2004

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Comments: We set a belay at 100' when the crack ran out. The second "pitch" is the traverse into the alcove; a red hex will help on the anchor here. The third pitch then is all the way to the top, walking off right.

Making the traverse the second pitch allowed me to see my second on what I thought was a lightly protected, airy traverse. It also eliminates any possibility of rope drag on both the first and third pitches.

Terrific route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Split Block : Ohmer's Odyssey (5.9)
By: pete cogan When: Oct 27, 2003

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Comments: The loose block is still there . . . a 3.5 was helpful, as were doubles in hand sizes as well as some hexes . . . leave the stoppers at home.

terrific route.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Oslund's Delight (5.8)
By: pete cogan When: Sep 6, 2003

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Comments: Fun route. Instead of walking off L, you can also walk about 40 feet to your right and rap off an anchor, coming down on the other side of the rock. 60 meter rope reaches easily.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Roadside Rock : Left Side (5.8)
By: pete cogan When: Aug 21, 2003

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Comments: The route is just to the right of a new bolted route. The bolted route, however, doesn't get close to the trad line.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Spire
By: pete cogan When: Aug 20, 2003

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Comments: No need to walk off The Spire: there are two new bolt lines and two new anchors at the top. One bolt line runs next to Dire Spire; the second is to the right of Blow Chow and heads up the arete.


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : The Main Pinecliffe Crag : Frenzy (5.10a)
By: pete cogan When: Aug 15, 2003

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Comments: An alternative finish: instead of going to the chains, head straight up the off width. At the top, you can traverse R to the bolted anchors on top of Crescent Moon and rap easily with a 60m. Also, the head-jam-rest is a must move. Fun route.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : The Cave Exit (5.7+)
By: pete cogan When: Aug 5, 2003

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Comments: This website is a terrific source of information. Unfortunately, I read about The Cave Exit AFTER we climbed Pear Buttress. Here is an alternative escape if you'd like a change of pace and if the weather is still holding for you. I don't think it's worth it, but it will get you to the top.

Instead of heading R all the way up the 5.4 ramp to the cave, we were intimidated by what looked like arduous climbing, so we headed left, up a 5.5 ramp, which I believe leads to Fang Ledge. From there, w... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Aprons : 2nd Apron Right Side (5.7)
By: pete cogan When: Aug 2, 2003

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Comments: Terrific route, and a very helpful picture. Many lines are possible here; this was ours: P1 goes to below the "M," on the right side. P2 heads right and stops at the top of a 40 foot or so R facing dihedral. P3 heads L and makes the big, obvious traverse and anchors perhaps 20 feet above this mini roof. P4 stretches it out 195' and ends at a huge rock garden. You are basically done. "Pitch 5" is easy scrambling up, about 140 feet.

All pitches are well over 100 feet. Some flar... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Left Side (5.9+)
By: pete cogan When: Jul 23, 2003

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Comments: Terrific route. One thought on P3: You can easily go past the statedbelay for P3 ("on the arete") another 30 feet or so. Go left throughthe roof, around the corner, and belay next to a big bush (tricams pink/brown;camalots 3/3.5). It makes it about a 90 foot pitch.

The advantage: you can see your leader on the last pitch.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: pete cogan When: Jun 28, 2003

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Comments: Regarding pro and the 2nd pitch: i thought it was easily protected with stoppers. This was not an easy pitch for me to lead, but I felt very comfortable slotting in medium and up stoppers along the way. No need for small ones.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
By: pete cogan When: Jun 28, 2003

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Comments: A note on the rap chains which have replaced the "dead tree" anchors. As you rap into the gully off these chains toward the left book, you'll note two slings and a biner as you are very close to running out of your 60M rope. We put these on 6/28/03 as what used to be there was gone.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon
By: pete cogan When: Jun 26, 2003

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Comments: Dream question: Above the anchors on Freedom [Lost Angel Wall] are two bolted routes which don't seem to be in Rossiter's guide or in this database . . . Anyone know what they are? Thanks.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: pete cogan When: May 17, 2003

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Comments: Re: the descent. From Rossiter: "downclimb ... north, down a steep gully to the sw" at which point you'll see a decent size tree with a sling/rope, rings ... You can reach the ground with double ropes from this tree. This way you avoid crossing the slab. Worked well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : You're Ugly and Your Mother... (5.8)
By: pete cogan When: Apr 13, 2003

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Comments: I'll second AC comment regarding being short: at 5'3", I thought that going over the roof was particularly difficult. Stemming was not an easy option. That was the crux for me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Zig Zag (5.7)
By: pete cogan When: Oct 26, 2002

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Comments: Terrific route despite some minor icefall! I found pink/blue/brown tricams were helpful.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Rush Buick (5.7)
By: pete cogan When: Oct 12, 2002

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Comments: New sling added 10/12/02. Fun route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : West Overhang (5.7)
By: pete cogan When: Oct 7, 2002

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Comments: The first move, right of the huge block, goes straight up a crack and seems a lot more difficult than 5.7. I placed a piece in the crack, but moved right and climbed up and over the bulge -- which had no pro, but was definitely moderate.


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