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Member Since: Dec 30, 2006
Last Visit: Mar 27, 2013
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Point Rank: # 8,721
Total Points: 30
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Pete Bresciani been climbing?










Contributions


All 47 | Routes | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 20 | Posts 4 | Stars 12 | Ratings 9

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Brass Balls (5.10)
By: Pete Bresciani When: Mar 15, 2012

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Comments: I believe Gary Fike and Don Burroughs did the first ascent.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Hot Fudge Thursday (5.9)
By: Pete Bresciani When: Nov 23, 2011

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Comments: This is a fun route! Pitches 1 and 2 were very engaging. Pitch 2 felt slightly run out in spots, but it's not so steep so there's plenty of time to plan your moves. RP's came in handy. At the top of the crack traverse 6 feet right to the belay. This did feel 5.9.

I'm not sure what part of pitch 3 was 5.8, maybe after the easy apron, the initial part of the crack getting to the bolt. Anyway, that's a very short section and after clipping the bolt, traverse to the left 6 feet or so and then strai... more >>


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Cathedral Rock : The Cathedral Route Wall : The Cathedral Route (5.11c)
By: Pete Bresciani When: Jul 15, 2011

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Comments: Keone and I climbed this today and felt the whole route was heady! :-) We both felt the last pitch was the hardest with it's awkward first 3 bolts, then intimidating bulge to slab move that turned out to be relatively easy, but it steepens again and after some poorer holds in a section of less than stellar white rock (crux), it turns into a pinchfest! Seemed quite a bit harder than 11a!

1) The first pitch has 9 bolts.

2) We rapped with one 70m rope - close, but no dangling.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Black Widow Hollow (5.9)
By: Pete Bresciani When: Oct 13, 2010

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Comments: Michelle and I did this route today. I should have read the description here instead of just the Handren guide. All I saw was "5.9" and "great warm up for Epinephrine". Epinephrine is the perfect size for tall climbers. Easy and secure. Somehow I didn't see the name "Joe Herbst" and "harder than Epinephrine!". Still a great day but for the tall person, these are VERY narrow squeeze chimneys! I think a better description would be "a good warm up for Unfinished Symphony". :-)

We also used the 70m... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock
By: Pete Bresciani When: Sep 20, 2010

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Comments: For aid practice in Red Rocks, a good little climb is the first part of Plan F on Ragged Edges wall.

www.mountainproject.com/v/nevada/red_rock/willow_spring/105733169

It's steep enough and you can practice jumaring too. September is the perfect time to climb Prodigal Sun. I would say Moonlight Buttress is an easier aid climb than Prodigal Sun, but October might be better for that one.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Yellow Pine : Unknown (5.10)
By: Pete Bresciani When: Jul 17, 2010

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Comments: Really fun route, slightly scary as mentioned previously. Might have been put up on rappel.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Yellow Pine : No Name (5.10b)
By: Pete Bresciani When: Jul 17, 2010

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Comments: This climb is OK. Fun but dirty and still a little loose in places.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Yellow Pine
By: Pete Bresciani When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: To get to this crag, follow the trail towards Mary Jane Falls. After about 15 minutes of hiking you'll come across a big cairn sitting on top of a tree stump on your left hand side. Turn left here and head straight across the wash where you'll soon come across more big cairns and eventually the hillside with the crag a short distance up a little trail.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Yellow Pine : 1057 (5.10)
By: Pete Bresciani When: Jul 15, 2010

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Comments: This is a great climb that reminded me of Owens River Gorge. Big holds that are easy on the hands. Interestingly there are now 9 bolts on this climb with 2 open shuts at the top.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Aeolian Wall (Original Rout... (5.9 A3)
By: Pete Bresciani When: May 25, 2010

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Comments: Back in the 90's, Dan McQuade made an attempt to free this route, hence the new anchors atop pitch one.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Stilgar's Wild Ride (5.8)
By: Pete Bresciani When: May 29, 2009

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Comments: Sebastien Jean and I did Stilgar's on Memorial Day 2009. Starting at 2pm we were in the shade the whole day. We used a 70m rope and did 4 pitches as follows. I don't know the exact pitch lengths so tried to describe the belays as best I could.

Pitch 1: Start up Tunnel Vision passing the first belay slings. Soon you'll see the next 3' wide Tunnel Vision chimney. To the right of it will be a 12' high vertical crack. Take this (5.8-) and belay on top of it from a bunch of slings wrapped around a ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Sumo Greatness Slab
By: Pete Bresciani When: Apr 17, 2009

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Comments: Those anchors left of the slab are at the top of a climb called 22 Minutes till Closing (5.6) and are probably only suitable for toproping that climb. Sumo Greatness' anchor has a bolt and an open shut you could use for toproping. Ice Climb and Dean's List can be toproped off a tree.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Slot Club Wall : Pinball Crack (5.9+) : Photo
By: Pete Bresciani When: Apr 16, 2009

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Comments: What a great shot! Send it in to climbing magazine. You might win something!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Running Man Wall : Vile Pile (5.10b/c PG13)
By: Pete Bresciani When: Feb 17, 2009

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Comments: This route is aptly named! I had to post a comment just because it deserves a bomb rating instead of one star. :-)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mud Spring Canyon : Chuckwalla 21 (5.9 PG13)
By: Pete Bresciani When: May 28, 2008

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Comments: Jon Cheney (aka The Cat) and Michelle Onsaga and I did this awesome route Memorial Day 5/26/08. The route was in the sun all day until probably 3pm when we were rappeling.

The first 2 pitches are a tad runout, but the few 5.9 moves are all right next to bolts or great pro. The third pitch is more like 110' and the last two pitches are mostly scrambling so with all the bolted belays, the route goes VERY fast.

The main difficulty of the route is the tricky route finding of the approach, which i... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: Pete Bresciani When: Apr 12, 2008

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Comments: The Cat and I climbed this route today, April 12, 2008. We had a great time. The rock quality wasn't as horrible as we were anticipating and the weather was perfect. It's too bad the initial poster for this used Roxanne's guidebook as a reference because the description is poor. Here is what we found:

Pitch 1: Chimney tree and wall to first bolt. I guess the idea is to sling some branches on the way up. :-) After 120' there is a bolted station at a stance just above two very close bolts. Althou... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Rawlpindi (5.7)
By: Pete Bresciani When: Jan 20, 2008

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Comments: I loved the first two pitches (which I had always thought were part of "The Big Horn"), but unfortunately I did not read the route description here and missed the chimney 3rd pitch of Rawlpindi.

I went right to a nice ledge before the Big Horn crack, spying a new bolt (with a quickdraw!) on a red face 10' above the ledge. This turned out to be a choss pile that might have been 5.7 but felt like 5.9. (scary) I am an experienced sandstone climber and none the less pulled off a huge sloper that f... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d)
By: Pete Bresciani When: Sep 7, 2007

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Comments: Michelle and I did this route today and enjoyed it. I was not thrilled however with the poor rock quality on pitches 2 and 4. Fortunately the short crux section of pitch 4 had bomber rock and pro.

Pitches 1, 3, and 5 were my favorites. Great rock, great pro and fun climbing.

I'm 6'1" tall and can confirm that height helps a lot on this climb. Long legs make for easy stems reducing the difficulty especially on pitch 3. On pitch 4, I easily reached the good face holds coming out of the offwidth... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Centerfold (5.10a R)
By: Pete Bresciani When: May 11, 2007

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Comments: I did the route in the 90's as well, and was amazed that this was a recommended route. The first few pitches were good but once at the crux it turned lame.

I remember the crux as coming up to a small roof, then going straight up over this into the white, chossy, poorly protected (poor rock quality) 5.10 section. After that the climb continued up uninteresting rock, many bushes, and more low quality rock. We made the direct finish which was simliar to many of the Mescalito's finishes (Heart of ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : The Gambler (5.11-)
By: Pete Bresciani When: Dec 30, 2006

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Comments: This is a great route and a testament to the Richard's (and Lisa's!) eye for spotting lines! I'm not sure why it's listed as 5.11c here but a consensus grade I hear around town is 10d (for taller people) and 11a (for shorter types). I say this not to downgrade the route but to encourage everyone to try it since it's a fun climb with giant jugs the whole way.