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Racking too much gear, as usual.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2005
Last Visit: Nov 19, 2014
Contact Perin Blanchard


Point Rank: # 41
Total Points: 8,217
Last Year: 129
Last 30 Days: 0
159 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Perin Blanchard been climbing?










Contributions


All 2618 | Routes 332 | Areas 76 | Photos 689 | Page Improvements | Comments 312 | Posts 257 | Stars 891 | Ratings 61
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Dec 7, 2008

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Comments: Notes

There are hundreds of bolts, a dozen or so pins, and a number of single-pitch route anchors that are not shown.

Oscar the Grouch was not conceived as a multi-pitch route, but can be done as one.

As always, ask at MountainWorks for beta on any of the routes.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Be All That You Can Be (5.10c)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Dec 1, 2008

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Comments: I finally got back and did this cleanly. I still didn't find Darren's mythical heel hook, but the way I managed it did seem mid-to-hard-10-ish (although it required a dynamic move—if I miss, I fall).

However, if you don't know where the holds are (and the key one for me isn't visible from the ground), .10c will seem like a cruel joke.


Location: UT : Saint George : Welcome Springs : The Wailing Wall : Re-Do (5.12c)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Nov 26, 2008

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Comments: Congratulations, Ben! You're the proud (adoptive) father of this description.

(Annie M. Hatier, I emailed you a couple of weeks ago about these poor descriptions and didn't hear back.)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Brain Full of Spiders (5.9)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Nov 24, 2008

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Comments: It should be possible to rap it all the way down, but I've not done it yet while pulling the rope. When cleaning and equipping it I always used a single strand from the top all the way down (using two ropes), and either jugged back up or climbed it on solo toprope - I did this because I'm not sure my 200' static is quite long enough for a doubled-rope rap off the first pitch - and I always forgot to check.

For rapping the first pitch, I'd recommend a 70m rope, and rather than following the rout... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Dancing With Feral Debutant... (5.9)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Nov 23, 2008

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Comments: Well, my wife was a debutante...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress
By: Perin Blanchard When: Nov 21, 2008

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Comments: Okay. (I added the descent info).

If I recall correctly, the only actual rap anchors (with rings) are at the top of the two uphill first pitch routes. The anchors at the top of the Trilogy face are a single bolt and hanger for each route. Edit: Jim Knight has added a second anchor bolt and hanger for each of Lord of the Slings, Frodo Lives, and Shadow and Flame.

I'll note that some people have rapped the final face to do one or more addit... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Brain Full of Spiders (5.9) : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Nov 17, 2008

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Comments: Your guess is correct. Kip is at the top of the 3rd pitch, Calvin is just past the top of the 2nd pitch (Kip linked 2 and 3), and I'm biding my time at the top of the 1st pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Brain Full of Spiders (5.9)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Nov 17, 2008

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Comments: Kip, if they come off, they're not holds...they're scenery.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Brain Full of Spiders (5.9)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Nov 14, 2008

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Comments: If you want to make a half-day of it, continue from the top of Brain Full of Spiders to Trilogy Buttress. The top of Bad Bananas is at roughly the same level as the start of the Trilogy routes.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Nov 12, 2008

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Comments: Yep.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Hobble Creek Canyon : The Original Wall
By: Perin Blanchard When: Oct 28, 2008

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Comments: The Original Wall it is.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Hobble Creek Canyon : The Original Wall
By: Perin Blanchard When: Oct 26, 2008

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Comments: I've only ever heard this area referred to (and that rarely) as "those other routes in Hobble Creek." I gave it the name Walt's Wonderland because my buddy ran from boulder to boulder exclaiming gleefully as we slogged our way up the crag one day.

If anyone knows a more proper name, I'd love to hear it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Appendage : Crisco Crack (5.7) : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Oct 25, 2008

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Comments: I think "FA" might be overstating the significance a bit, but at least I'm color-coordinated with the rock.

The face is a little taller than it appears in this picture; Lee is 6'6" tall, so he throws off the perspective a bit.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Vote for Your Mom (5.3)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Oct 24, 2008

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Comments: "...and continued up the big, right-arching crack..."

You're pretty brave. There's not a lot holding that block up.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Appendage : Crisco Crack (5.7)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Oct 24, 2008

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Comments: Not really worth climbing, but I had to name and report it so that Darren falls one further behind in his quest to climb all named lines in Rock Canyon. Hi Darren :-)

I decided that the line really isn't worthy of its own set of chains, but if anyone feels differently (after climbing it), I could probably be persuaded to put some in.

03Jul09: Added chains.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Pocket Rocks
By: Perin Blanchard When: Oct 22, 2008

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Comments: We followed the directions in Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition (turn right onto a dirt road .5 miles past the "public lands" sign, stay left at each fork) and managed to get to within about 1/8 mile of the approach trailhead in the low-clearance family minivan. The road wasn't horrible, and only elicited occasional cries of, "What do you think you're doing to my car?!", usually heard immediately following ominous scraping noises.

Contrary to the guidebook, the trail starts at the road's end and was marke... more >>


Location: Perin Blanchard : Red Slab Accident : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 30, 2008

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Comments: See here.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Triangle Wall : Stratosphere (5.10c/d C1+)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 29, 2008

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Comments: I assigned this route to criscokid (was Orphaned) and copied his comment text into the description body.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Low Tide : Syzygy (5.8)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 24, 2008

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Comments: C'mon, where's your Google-Fu? I was looking for a name related to tides and thought all the y's made for an interesting-looking word; the buzzing, Dr. Seuss-like pronunciation is a bonus.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Low Tide : Aqueous (5.7)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 24, 2008

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Comments: I agree. I thought it was harder than 5.7, but 5.7 is what Collin said it was and who am I to argue?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Red Slab : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 11, 2008

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Comments: I guess the Ruckmans thought it was harder than Ryan did.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Mass Murder Wall
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 7, 2008

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Comments:

Why No Hangers?


         —or—

How I Misspent My Saturday



Two of the routes on Mass Murder Wall that appear in the Ruckman Guide are missing all of their hangers, although the wedge bolts are all there. Although I can’t tell you why they originally disappeared, I can tell you why they weren’t replaced.

I had bought hangers, washers, and nuts with the intention of replacing the missing hardware on the routes. In the early afternoon I dragged myself up the ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Solitary Misdemeanors : Full Nelson (5.9)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 7, 2008

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Comments: Full Nelson



Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Crescent Crack (5.7)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Aug 29, 2008

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Comments: See the history section of the description for some great information from Allen Sanderson.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : The Pillar of Great Price : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Aug 28, 2008

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Comments: Guess you should have used longer bolts :-)


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