Comments: I finally got back and did this cleanly. I still didn't find Darren's mythical heel hook, but the way I managed it did seem mid-to-hard-10-ish (although it required a dynamic move—if I miss, I fall).
However, if you don't know where the holds are (and the key one for me isn't visible from the ground), .10c will seem like a cruel joke.
Comments: It should be possible to rap it all the way down, but I've not done it yet while pulling the rope. When cleaning and equipping it I always used a single strand from the top all the way down (using two ropes), and either jugged back up or climbed it on solo toprope - I did this because I'm not sure my 200' static is quite long enough for a doubled-rope rap off the first pitch - and I always forgot to check.
For rapping the first pitch, I'd recommend a 70m rope, and rather than following the rout... more >>
If I recall correctly, the only actual rap anchors (with rings) are at the top of the two uphill first pitch routes. The anchors at the top of the Trilogy face are a single bolt and hanger for each route. Edit: Jim Knight has added a second anchor bolt and hanger for each of Lord of the Slings, Frodo Lives, and Shadow and Flame.
I'll note that some people have rapped the final face to do one or more addit... more >>
Comments: If you want to make a half-day of it, continue from the top of Brain Full of Spiders to Trilogy Buttress. The top of Bad Bananas is at roughly the same level as the start of the Trilogy routes.
Comments: I've only ever heard this area referred to (and that rarely) as "those other routes in Hobble Creek." I gave it the name Walt's Wonderland because my buddy ran from boulder to boulder exclaiming gleefully as we slogged our way up the crag one day.
If anyone knows a more proper name, I'd love to hear it.
Comments: We followed the directions in Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition (turn right onto a dirt road .5 miles past the "public lands" sign, stay left at each fork) and managed to get to within about 1/8 mile of the approach trailhead in the low-clearance family minivan. The road wasn't horrible, and only elicited occasional cries of, "What do you think you're doing to my car?!", usually heard immediately following ominous scraping noises.
Contrary to the guidebook, the trail starts at the road's end and was marke... more >>
Two of the routes on Mass Murder Wall that appear in the Ruckman Guide are missing all of their hangers, although the wedge bolts are all there. Although I can’t tell you why they originally disappeared, I can tell you why they weren’t replaced.
I had bought hangers, washers, and nuts with the intention of replacing the missing hardware on the routes. In the early afternoon I dragged myself up the ... more >>