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Racking too much gear, as usual.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2005
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Perin Blanchard


Point Rank: # 41
Total Points: 8,218
Last Year: 130
Last 30 Days: 36
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Perin Blanchard been climbing?










Contributions


All 2619 | Routes 332 | Areas 76 | Photos 689 | Page Improvements | Comments 313 | Posts 257 | Stars 891 | Ratings 61
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Beachball Crag
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 29, 2009

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Comments: "...we took up a wench and pulled down the large tree..."

That's a strong woman!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Adjective : Vicarious (5.11b)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 17, 2009

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Comments: Although a bit of a one- (or two-) move wonder, I thought the tricky crux made it worthwhile.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Waterfall Wall
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 14, 2009

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Comments: The line in the streak is BFE, an older .12a by Darren Knezek (however, it's likely the bolts are not longer safe since they are old and in water most of the year).

The two to the right of the streak are .12s (.12a and .12b, I think) by Andy Knight.

The two left of the streak are a .10c and an .11b (as I recall), also by Andy Knight.

I haven't yet gotten on any of them yet, so that's all I know.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Old School Rock : Bang Bang (5.11c)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 10, 2009

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Comments: I was told this line is .11c but it felt more like .11b to me. If you don't avail yourself of the obvious rest before the crux, it probably feels more like .11c.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Frodo Lives (5.9)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 10, 2009

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Comments: I hope no one gets scared off. I personally didn't think supplemental gear was necessary, but the bolt spacing does tend to focus one's mind. There's no shame in taking a small rack along.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Frodo Lives (5.9)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 9, 2009

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Comments: "...the bolts far apart..."

Jim Knight said, among other things: "I placed the bare minimum of bolts so as to take advantage of the places for pro."


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Platinum Blonde (5.10a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 8, 2009

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Comments: If your "70m" barely had anything left lowering off from this route, then your rope is not 70 meters long.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Bad Bananas (5.11d PG13)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 5, 2009

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Comments: This isn't a four star route because of the rock or because of the climbing (although some of the movement is quite a bit of fun). It's a classic route because of history, intimidation factor, and exposure; completing it is a worthy accomplishment for Rock Canyon aficionados.

The Ruckman guide's description casts a foreboding pall:

"[T]he rock is rotten, the gear dubious, and the lines are hard to discern. Climbers should only attempt a route on this wall if it is w... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : AC/DC Wall : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Aug 26, 2009

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Comments: Note: For Those About To Rock (We Salute You) (route 5 in the photo), is bolted, but I haven't yet had time to go locate the bolts for the topo.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Old School Rock : Spot (5.11b)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Aug 26, 2009

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Comments: I should note that Andy Ross says this is .11a/b, but I thought that it was easily .11b.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Cove : 40oz Causulatie (5.10c)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Aug 7, 2009

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Comments: Post-40 oz. spelling.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 31, 2009

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Comments: Annoying indeed. However, the perpetrators almost certainly weren't "climbers" ("climbers" use a drill).

Tank Canyon is used more often by groups other than climbers, as evidenced by the paintball marks, spilled Airsoft pellets, etc. A couple of weeks ago, I encountered a guy setting up a makeshift pulley system up the steep, loose stuff across from Membrane. He said he was hauling up folding c... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pentapitch (5.8)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 29, 2009

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Comments: It's been a while, but I recall placing a #5 or #6 Black Diamond stopper in the thin crack to the left of the belay. It was mildly strenuous to place, as I remember.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Cougar Narrows : Pig Charmer (5.10a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 22, 2009

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Comments: This is a tricky, slippery line. There were three of us, all solid 5.11 climbers and this was the last route of the day as it was getting dark.

I started up and got to the crux and found that my right foot didn't want to stick where I wanted it to go. I fooled with it for a bit until I finally put a bit too much weight on it and it skidded, as did the rest of me.

After I figured it out and finished, the second of us (who had belayed and watched me struggle) started up. He got to the same spot ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Appendage : The Edge (5.9)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 17, 2009

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Comments: The explanation involves two seriously injured climbers and threats from local law enforcement. Ask Darren if you truly want to know.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : The Open Book (5.7)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 9, 2009

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Comments: We had a single rack and it was plenty (and we did it in three pitches).

As I recall, it was a set of BD stoppers (#4 to #13), a set of BD C4's (#.3 to #3, with an extra #2), BD C3's #0 to #2, a dozen or so trad draws plus two or three double length slings.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Beer Can Alley : Hornets Nest (5.9+)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 7, 2009

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Comments:

Or this?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bug Barn Dance Wall : Looking For A Legacy (5.9) : Photo (Copy)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 4, 2009

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Comments: Updated the topo photo.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Endless Torment (5.10b)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 3, 2009

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Comments: A 70m rope gets you down in one rap.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Lonely Challenge Wall : Zen and the Art (5.12a) : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jun 24, 2009

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Comments: Kinda reminds me of this.



Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Leia's Leash (5.10a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: The wall is west-facing, perhaps even a bit west-south-west. Therefore, in warmer weather you're definitely better off before noon or 1:00pm.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Leia's Leash (5.10a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: Leia's Leash is the first bolted line to the right of This Is Not a Lightsaber. Hangers are dark gray, so they might be a bit difficult to see.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest
By: Perin Blanchard When: May 31, 2009

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Comments: As of 30 May 2009 (and for four or five years prior) the summit register notebook is full (it was placed in 1984). We left a couple of pages (the back of a topo), but if you're heading up there bring a new notebook to place alongside the original.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Hangover (5.9+)
By: Perin Blanchard When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: If you happen to drag a #4 Camalot along with you, you can get rid of it at the top of the "undercling flake." That way your second has to haul it through the crux :-)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Hangover (5.9+) : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: The smallish flake he is directly below actually makes a wonderful seat. I stopped and sat on it for several minutes, facing out toward the canyon and enjoying the view.


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