Comments: This isn't a four star route because of the rock or because of the climbing (although some of the movement is quite a bit of fun). It's a classic route because of history, intimidation factor, and exposure; completing it is a worthy accomplishment for Rock Canyon aficionados.
The Ruckman guide's description casts a foreboding pall:
"[T]he rock is rotten, the gear dubious, and the lines are hard to discern. Climbers should only attempt a route on this wall if it is w... more >>
Comments: Annoying indeed. However, the perpetrators almost certainly weren't "climbers" ("climbers" use a drill).
Tank Canyon is used more often by groups other than climbers, as evidenced by the paintball marks, spilled Airsoft pellets, etc. A couple of weeks ago, I encountered a guy setting up a makeshift pulley system up the steep, loose stuff across from Membrane. He said he was hauling up folding c... more >>
Comments: This is a tricky, slippery line. There were three of us, all solid 5.11 climbers and this was the last route of the day as it was getting dark.
I started up and got to the crux and found that my right foot didn't want to stick where I wanted it to go. I fooled with it for a bit until I finally put a bit too much weight on it and it skidded, as did the rest of me.
After I figured it out and finished, the second of us (who had belayed and watched me struggle) started up. He got to the same spot ... more >>
Comments: As of 30 May 2009 (and for four or five years prior) the summit register notebook is full (it was placed in 1984). We left a couple of pages (the back of a topo), but if you're heading up there bring a new notebook to place alongside the original.
Comments: Darren, I see you downrated this a letter grade.
Thunderstruck (which you once told me was a stiff .11b) and The Force are quite similar in style (crimpy and balancy); I onsighted both and, for what it's worth, I thought The Force was harder than Thunderstruck.
(Of course, the fact I onsighted them probably means they are both really only about .10b :-)