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Racking too much gear, as usual.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2005
Last Visit: 14 mins ago
Contact Perin Blanchard


Point Rank: # 38
Total Points: 8,096
Last Year: 400
Last 30 Days: 0
144 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Perin Blanchard been climbing?










Contributions


All (2571) | Routes (332) | Areas (76) | Photos (666) | Comments (306) | Posts (254) | Stars (890) | Ratings (47)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Bad Bananas (5.11d PG13)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 5, 2009

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Comments: This isn't a four star route because of the rock or because of the climbing (although some of the movement is quite a bit of fun). It's a classic route because of history, intimidation factor, and exposure; completing it is a worthy accomplishment for Rock Canyon aficionados.

The Ruckman guide's description casts a foreboding pall:

"[T]he rock is rotten, the gear dubious, and the lines are hard to discern. Climbers should only attempt a route on this wall if it is w... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : AC/DC Wall : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Aug 26, 2009

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Comments: Note: For Those About To Rock (We Salute You) (route 5 in the photo), is bolted, but I haven't yet had time to go locate the bolts for the topo.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Old School Rock : Spot (5.11b)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Aug 26, 2009

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Comments: I should note that Andy Ross says this is .11a/b, but I thought that it was easily .11b.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Cove : 40oz Causulatie (5.10c)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Aug 7, 2009

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Comments: Post-40 oz. spelling.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 31, 2009

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Comments: Annoying indeed. However, the perpetrators almost certainly weren't "climbers" ("climbers" use a drill).

Tank Canyon is used more often by groups other than climbers, as evidenced by the paintball marks, spilled Airsoft pellets, etc. A couple of weeks ago, I encountered a guy setting up a makeshift pulley system up the steep, loose stuff across from Membrane. He said he was hauling up folding c... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pentapitch (5.8)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 29, 2009

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Comments: It's been a while, but I recall placing a #5 or #6 Black Diamond stopper in the thin crack to the left of the belay. It was mildly strenuous to place, as I remember.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Cougar Narrows : Pig Charmer (5.10a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 22, 2009

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Comments: This is a tricky, slippery line. There were three of us, all solid 5.11 climbers and this was the last route of the day as it was getting dark.

I started up and got to the crux and found that my right foot didn't want to stick where I wanted it to go. I fooled with it for a bit until I finally put a bit too much weight on it and it skidded, as did the rest of me.

After I figured it out and finished, the second of us (who had belayed and watched me struggle) started up. He got to the same spot ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Appendage : The Edge (5.9)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 17, 2009

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Comments: The explanation involves two seriously injured climbers and threats from local law enforcement. Ask Darren if you truly want to know.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : The Open Book (5.7)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 9, 2009

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Comments: We had a single rack and it was plenty (and we did it in three pitches).

As I recall, it was a set of BD stoppers (#4 to #13), a set of BD C4's (#.3 to #3, with an extra #2), BD C3's #0 to #2, a dozen or so trad draws plus two or three double length slings.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Beer Can Alley : Hornets Nest (5.9+)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 7, 2009

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Comments:

Or this?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bug Barn Dance Wall : Looking For A Legacy (5.9) : Photo (Copy)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 4, 2009

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Comments: Updated the topo photo.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Endless Torment (5.10b)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 3, 2009

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Comments: A 70m rope gets you down in one rap.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Lonely Challenge Wall : Zen and the Art (5.12a) : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jun 24, 2009

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Comments: Kinda reminds me of this.



Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Leia's Leash (5.10a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: The wall is west-facing, perhaps even a bit west-south-west. Therefore, in warmer weather you're definitely better off before noon or 1:00pm.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Leia's Leash (5.10a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: Leia's Leash is the first bolted line to the right of This Is Not a Lightsaber. Hangers are dark gray, so they might be a bit difficult to see.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest
By: Perin Blanchard When: May 31, 2009

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Comments: As of 30 May 2009 (and for four or five years prior) the summit register notebook is full (it was placed in 1984). We left a couple of pages (the back of a topo), but if you're heading up there bring a new notebook to place alongside the original.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Gordon's Hangover (5.9+)
By: Perin Blanchard When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: If you happen to drag a #4 Camalot along with you, you can get rid of it at the top of the "undercling flake." That way your second has to haul it through the crux :-)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Gordon's Hangover (5.9+) : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: The smallish flake he is directly below actually makes a wonderful seat. I stopped and sat on it for several minutes, facing out toward the canyon and enjoying the view.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : The Force (5.11b)
By: Perin Blanchard When: May 13, 2009

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Comments: Darren, I see you downrated this a letter grade.

Thunderstruck (which you once told me was a stiff .11b) and The Force are quite similar in style (crimpy and balancy); I onsighted both and, for what it's worth, I thought The Force was harder than Thunderstruck.

(Of course, the fact I onsighted them probably means they are both really only about .10b :-)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Endor Wall : Ewok Epic (5.6)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Apr 16, 2009

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Comments: Darren, that's just wrong.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bug Barn Dance Wall : Desperate Land (5.10c)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Apr 6, 2009

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Comments: I really, really liked this route (and I thought it was a bit easier than Lacy Doggie Panties, so if that one is .10c, then this one is... .10c- ?)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Mar 18, 2009

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Comments: Sure: I created two layers, each containing the photo. I lowered the contrast on the top layer, and then erased the area of the crags. Finally, I added the text labels (which aren't links—I assume you're referring to the caption).

The links in the caption are formed by using the standard mp.com link format: [[item number]] (e.g., [[105739715]], which is displayed as Hard Rock).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Meat Wall : Tofu (5.6)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Mar 18, 2009

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Comments: I'm sure Darren K. can tell us the name and other vitals about this route. He told me there are three named climbs to the left of his bolted 5.9; this is one of them.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Dancing With Feral Debutant... (5.9) : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Mar 15, 2009

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Comments: I added the alternate finish. An additional bolt at the top of the face, then two bolts over the steepest part. Airy, scary, and fun. The rating is still under consideration (the two opinions so far...mid 10 to low 11).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Good Plantains (5.9+)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Mar 15, 2009

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Comments: This is a fun route!

The rock gets progressively better the higher you go, until a simply stellar third pitch on excellent, beautiful quartzite.

For all of you choss haters out there, however, be aware that the first pitch of this line is pretty loose.


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