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Racking too much gear, as usual.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2005
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Perin Blanchard


Point Rank: # 39
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All (2571) | Routes (332) | Areas (76) | Photos (666) | Comments (306) | Posts (254) | Stars (890) | Ratings (47)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Fin Arete (5.10b R)
By: Perin Blanchard When: May 29, 2010

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Comments: Hey Mike, I can't make it up this weekend, but the last bolt on the 2nd pitch (1/4" w/Leeper hanger) and the 2nd pitch belay bolt (1/4" w/SMC hanger) both could stand replacing if you get someone up there with you.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2)
By: Perin Blanchard When: May 16, 2010

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Comments: From my experience, I mostly second Andy's rack comments. I jugged through pitches one and two and climbed the rest free so I can't speak to the gear required for the first two pitches, or to what additional gear you might want to aid other pitches.

I had a rack quite similar to what Andy recommends with not quite as many C4s and a few DMM 4CUs making up the difference

I took two sets of DMM alloy offset nuts and never used a piece from the second set. One set would have been sufficient for me... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Bluff Street Cracks : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Apr 28, 2010

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Comments: Not Wide Boy. Looks like this one.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Fin Arete (5.10b R) : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Apr 25, 2010

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Comments: That old goat looks kinda goofy.

And there's a white-haired critter up above.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Fin Arete (5.10b R)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Apr 24, 2010

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Comments: On the second pitch (not the Dark Horse variation) I placed (as Brian suggests) a #1 and #2 C4. I also placed a #0 C3, a #2 C3, a #7 DMM alloy offset, and slung several chickenheads. There were a couple of spots where I kinda wished I'd brought a #.5 and #.75 C4 as well.

FWIW, on pitch one I found moving from bolt 5 to 6 harder than the traverse after bolt 4.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Intensive Care Slab : Shock Trauma (5.11b PG13)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Apr 24, 2010

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Comments: Did as Tenesmus suggests and climbed the first pitch after coming down from The Fin Arete. Definitely worth it.

Second pitch looks kinda hard :-)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : This Is A Lightsaber! (5.11a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Apr 16, 2010

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Comments: As you can see from my suggested rating, I think that this line is considerably harder than .11a. It's definitely harder than any of the other .11a's on this wall, and I think it's harder than The Force.

I fell off of this thing several times before finally redpointing it. I also used different beta through the crux than Darren, because his way is just too hard :-)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Blue Wall
By: Perin Blanchard When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: I'm pretty sure the boulder in the trail came down from the south side of the canyon (along with several more large boulders that now reside in the stream bed). If you look up on the west side of the buttress that contains The Hidden and The Balcony you can see broken vegetation and additional evidence of rock fall. There is also the remains of several broken trees in the stream bed.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Watchtower : Billy Goat's Gruff (5.11a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Mar 25, 2010

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Comments: I'd looked at this unlovely-appearing line a few times and thought, "Ugh. Why would I want to get on that thing?"

However, my partners wanted to climb it and so I, being obviously a creature of the herd, followed suit.

I was pleasantly surprised and quite enjoyed the line, particularly the start. Definitely worth getting on if you're at The Watchtower.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Allegro Energico (5.12c)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Mar 21, 2010

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Comments: Allegro energico —lively, fast, and energetically.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Jobsite : Superman (5.12a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Mar 21, 2010

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Comments: Superman got its name from your arms' positions during the crux move (which I, despite several attempts and lots of hanging rest, couldn't even do).


Location: UT : Triassic
By: Perin Blanchard When: Feb 16, 2010

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Comments: He means this book.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Three Penguins
By: Perin Blanchard When: Nov 30, 2009

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Comments: "...one of the walking approaches..."
Walking with Lee Jensen to <em><a href='/v/the-three-penguins/105717122'>The Three Penguins</a></em>, May 2009. <br /> <br />Photo by Tristan Higbee.
Walking with Lee Jensen to The Three Penguins, May 2009.

Photo by Tristan Higbee.



Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : AC/DC Wall : For Those About To Rock (We... (5.8) : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Nov 25, 2009

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Comments: You need a high tolerance for choss (and perhaps even an appreciation for choss) to enjoy AC/DC, but yeah, for the most part the climbing is better than it looks.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Moment of Decay (5.11d)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Nov 25, 2009

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Comments: Of the three 5.11d lines to the right of the cave (Rainbird, When You’re Feeling Sinister, and this) I thought this was by far the most difficult.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Old Peculier (5.11-)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Nov 13, 2009

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Comments:
Theakston Ales


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Leia's Leash (5.10a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Nov 3, 2009

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Comments: High alpine?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Oct 5, 2009

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Comments: On top of the same rib that contains Bosko Wall, but higher than Bosko (at approximately the same elevation as Tatooine).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Beachball Crag
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 29, 2009

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Comments: "...we took up a wench and pulled down the large tree..."

That's a strong woman!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Adjective : Vicarious (5.11b)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 17, 2009

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Comments: Although a bit of a one- (or two-) move wonder, I thought the tricky crux made it worthwhile.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Waterfall Wall
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 14, 2009

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Comments: The line in the streak is BFE, an older .12a by Darren Knezek (however, it's likely the bolts are not longer safe since they are old and in water most of the year).

The two to the right of the streak are .12s (.12a and .12b, I think) by Andy Knight.

The two left of the streak are a .10c and an .11b (as I recall), also by Andy Knight.

I haven't yet gotten on any of them yet, so that's all I know.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Old School Rock : Bang Bang (5.11c)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 10, 2009

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Comments: I was told this line is .11c but it felt more like .11b to me. If you don't avail yourself of the obvious rest before the crux, it probably feels more like .11c.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Frodo Lives (5.9)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 10, 2009

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Comments: I hope no one gets scared off. I personally didn't think supplemental gear was necessary, but the bolt spacing does tend to focus one's mind. There's no shame in taking a small rack along.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Frodo Lives (5.9)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 9, 2009

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Comments: "...the bolts far apart..."

Jim Knight said, among other things: "I placed the bare minimum of bolts so as to take advantage of the places for pro."


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Platinum Blonde (5.10a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 8, 2009

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Comments: If your "70m" barely had anything left lowering off from this route, then your rope is not 70 meters long.


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