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Racking too much gear, as usual.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2005
Last Visit: Dec 7, 2014
Contact Perin Blanchard


Point Rank: # 41
Total Points: 8,217
Last Year: 129
Last 30 Days: 0
160 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Perin Blanchard been climbing?










Contributions


All 2618 | Routes 332 | Areas 76 | Photos 689 | Page Improvements | Comments 312 | Posts 257 | Stars 891 | Ratings 61
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Vortex : Gripcom (5.11c)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: As I climbed this line the handholds were covered in dust and grit and I kept knocking off bits with my feet, causing my belayer not a little consternation. The rock quality was atrocious, even by my admittedly lax standards.

At the fifth bolt I looked up and could only see a bolt 12-15 feet ahead. I looked in front of me at the rusty head of a bolt of unknown length and its rusty old SMC hanger, seated in rock of dubious quality. I contemplated a possible 20+ foot fall...and chickened out.

Af... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Santaquin Canyon : The Main Wall
By: Perin Blanchard When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: jsnstwrt, you misunderstand the motivation behind the reluctance to publish information. It has nothing to do with money.

There are four men who between them have developed equally the vast majority of the routes in Santaquin. I know three of the four, although only one well. My knowledge of the situation comes from him.

Two of the route developers wanted to publish the routes in a future guidebook and two did not.

The motivation for not wanting to publish the information is, as I u... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Drop Zone (5.10a/b)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: Heh. I figured it was something like that.

I think Darren had something similar happen to him once.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Drop Zone (5.10a/b)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: Do tell.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Old School Rock : Boo (5.11c)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Aug 3, 2012

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Comments: A really fun climb. Requires delicate face climbing (a bit of a rarity in AF), and some really fun arete trickery.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Blue Walls : Blue Falcon (5.9)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: I should note that in Tyler King's original list of the Blue Walls routes in the area description this route was listed as a .10c.

If you can hand jam it isn't that hard.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 19, 2012

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Comments: I'll bet a certain Bird, French, Draper, and Greer would be opposed.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Bingo Baby : Kodak Courage (5.12b) : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 11, 2012

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Comments: You forgot the sentence that I uttered immediately after that one which was, "Few, because most old guys have more sense than that."


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Forgotten Trails : Credibility Check (5.12a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 7, 2012

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Comments: Despite being a glued-together pile of choss this route is a lot of fun.

In A Climber's Guide to Select Walls in American Fork Canyon this is rated .11d/12a. Since MountainProject doesn't have .11d/.12a, I'll put it in as .12a to make me feel more accomplished...

Anyway, if you're shorter, the crux will almost certainly feel .12a.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jul 4, 2012

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Comments: Here is a thread about the Quail Fire.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : A Cloud In The Sky (5.10a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jun 21, 2012

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Comments: Awesome.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Forgotten Trails : Smooth Operator (5.11c)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: Bouldery start is right: I climbed up; tried out various tiny, uncomfortable holds. I climbed down. I climbed up and over; tried pockets. I climbed back over and down. I climbed up, thought about committing, climbed down. I climbed up, committed, guessed wrong. I fell down (onto the first bolt).

Lowered down and started over. Figured out where the (itty-bitty) hold I needed is, and fell off when an intermediate hold broke. Lowered again. Finally grunted through the start on ... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : Q Crags : ... : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: Wow, Paul! I'd never before considered using explosives in route development.

:-)


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : Orangutan Wall : Don't Feed The Monkey (5.6)
By: Perin Blanchard When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: So, Jason: Darren has this as Don't Feed the Monkey and the line left of Superfly as Don't Touch the Monkey.

Which is it?


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : Orangutan Wall : Turbo Fly (5.8)
By: Perin Blanchard When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: Named Turbo Fly in Knezek's guide, but since Jason entered this description I guess we'll trust his name :-)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : George
By: Perin Blanchard When: May 23, 2012

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Comments: Lounge Lizards P2/3


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Unknown Pleasures : Persona Non Grata (5.10c)
By: Perin Blanchard When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, I should note that I thought it was more like .10a as well, although I specified .10c because that is the guidebook rating.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : Orangutan Wall : Turbo Fly (5.8) : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: May 17, 2012

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Comments: Forget Superfly of the '70's, baby! Superfly of the 21st Century wears man-pris.





Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Hideaway : South-Facing Wall : Charlie Don't Surf (5.9)
By: Perin Blanchard When: May 1, 2012

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Comments:



Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Balcony : Photo
By: Perin Blanchard When: Apr 18, 2012

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Comments: Heh. That arch route (The Dark Side of the Rainbow) will be rumored to go at .11d the next time anyone hears about it.

I thought it was about .10c when I redpointed it. Darren thought .11a or so.

At some point Darren's Yellow Brick Road project will be finished and I'll post the details.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail : The Brass Monkey (5.7)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Mar 16, 2012

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Comments: Alas! I really wanted to believe it.

Snopes on Brass Monkeys

"Somebody's fanciful imagination is at work cooking up spurious etymologies again. In short, this origin for the phrase 'cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey' is nonsense because..."


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Second Coming (5.12a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Mar 4, 2012

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Comments: The fourth bolt has deteriorated and is now in a dangerous condition: there is some axial movement and the bolt itself spins. It may be that simply tightening the bolt will suffice, but it's more likely that the sleeve and cone are spinning in the hole.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: Perin Blanchard When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: I deleted "Mystery of the Desert's" comments. Drive-by anonymous cowards have no place in this conversation.


Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Sunny Side : Black Friday (5.11a)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Feb 18, 2012

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Comments: I suspect if you have four or five inches more reach than me this won't feel nearly as hard as it did to me.

Although most of the route felt .10a or easier, I had to really crank on a small, painful hold with the smallest of footholds to reach the next really positive hold.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Grey Cliffs Picnic Area : The Shame Wall : Send in the Frowns (5.11c)
By: Perin Blanchard When: Dec 17, 2011

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Comments: This route was quite a bit of fun, and makes the trek to the wall worth it. I didn't think the difficulty was .11c, however. Something around .11a was what it felt like to me.


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