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Member Since: Nov 9, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 527
Total Points: 1,276
Last Year: 55
Last 30 Days: 53
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1775 | Routes 53 | Areas 7 | Photos 89 | Page Improvements | Comments 196 | Posts 253 | Stars 637 | Ratings 540
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : Dihedral Route (5.7)
By: percious When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: Nice route. Amazing exposure for a 60-footer. Make sure you bring some long runners to manage rope drag. This thing is still exfoliating, and there is a loose square-shaped block at the crux. It's not required to pull through. I'll try to trundle it next time I'm up there.

I think a 4" piece would be helpful, but the largest I brought up was a #3.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Nautilus : Nautilus Traverse (V3)
By: percious When: Apr 20, 2012

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Comments: Right->left is much easier at V2, even if you use the lower holds.
Left->right is V3-, even if you use the higher holds.

Super fun traverse.

Also, on the left side of the traverse is a fun vertical problem with a big throw to a hueco off big holds. V1.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Neanderthal Wall : Pack the Walls (5.6)
By: percious When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments: Great route with great protection. I wish it was longer. The opening moves are steep, and there's some loose rock at the crux before entering the chimney. No way I'd send a beginner leader up this one, but it's a good place to practice setting some anchors at the bottom.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
By: percious When: Dec 12, 2011

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Comments: It might be worth noting that the route is named for one of the contributors to the invention of the semi-conductor, and eventually the integrated circuit, which we all are lucky enough to utilize whilst contributing to, and consuming, this site!

Awesome climb. Do it in the "classic" way. In the buff.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Handcrack (5.8)
By: percious When: Oct 31, 2011

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Comments: My favorite hand crack at Table.


Location: C Miller : San Jacinto Mountains : Photo
By: percious When: Oct 12, 2011

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Comments: cool photo. The structure and shadows on the left looks like a woman clutching the face.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Twelve Pack Wall : Honey, I Shrunk the Hemmorr... (5.7)
By: percious When: Oct 10, 2011

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Comments: Difficult opening moves for 5.7 leader with no protection. Basically, it's a couple of overhanging bouldering moves and somewhat insecure feet right before a bolt at 20 feet off the deck. Factor in ground-fall potential for second bolt clip (although after admittedly easier terrain) and ledge fall clipping the anchors, and this route is potentially dangerous for someone new to leading. I for one would welcome the addition to 3 bolts to this route, which would add a nice beginner lead to the a... more >>


Location: CT : Western Highlands : Diamond Ledge : Out of bounds (5.10a)
By: percious When: Sep 28, 2011

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Comments: I agree that the picture indicates the climb: wishbone. If you want to call it 5.10 that's your business. It's really not all that hard if you have some offwidth skill. Bring some big gear!


Location: CT : Western Highlands : Diamond Ledge : Crow's Nest (5.9)
By: percious When: Sep 28, 2011

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Comments: Wanted to mention that the name "crows nest" is merely a place holder since I do not know who the FA is. We called it that because there was a giant nest on the ledge when we first climbed it. I have no idea if anyone had climbed it previously, but it would not surprise me in the least.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Dinosaur's Foot : Strategery (5.7)
By: percious When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: I think there are 5 bolts on this route, not 4. It is very well protected in any event. Easy clips.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : Crawling Up Roseanne's Bell... (5.11b)
By: percious When: Sep 9, 2011

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Comments: Well-bolted. Sustained. Crux over the belly is slightly harder than the second one at the roof above. There really is not much of a rest after you ascend the belly, but the climbing is steep and hard.


Location: Mike Carrington : The rocks : Photo
By: percious When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: The route is called New River Gorge Homesick Blues. One of the best 9s at NTM. 11a if you climb directly right of the bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Bad Girls Get Spanked (5.11)
By: percious When: Aug 26, 2011

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Comments: I yarded a bit too hard on the flake and it moved considerably under my weight. I immediately backed off. There's another way to the left of the bolts to get through the crux that goes at 11c. With the FA's permission, I would like to move the bolts above the large flake to the left more to make clipping more safe for the left variation.


Location: Colorado : Jay Eggleston BMX Accident : Post : Photo
By: percious When: Aug 16, 2011

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Comments: Looks like "over the hill (P2)" at Rincon.


Location: Lee Smith : Misc Pics : Photo
By: percious When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: NO CLIMBING!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Alone Time with my Banana (5.6)
By: percious When: Aug 12, 2011

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Comments: I think this is pretty runout for the novice leader. You need a long runner if you set some gear between 2-3. There's also a good horizontal for a yellow Alien (orange TCU) above the 4th bolt which makes heading into the steeper terrain a little more palatable. I give it a 5.7, because it's fairly steep towards the top with a slopey topout.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Leftover Stuff (5.10c)
By: percious When: Aug 12, 2011

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Comments: I was informed by someone else at the crag that a hold broke on the last crux. I would say first crux goes at 10a, second, 10b and the final puzzling traverse is 10d. I have been onsighting 10d/11a for a while now, and it took me 3 tries to redpoint (granted it started raining on the second attempt).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Big Slide Mtn.
By: percious When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: The lat/lon coords on this entry are missing a negative side, resulting in them being placed in the eastern block.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Devin's Dihedral (5.9+ R)
By: percious When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: I found this climb to be varied and thought provoking, bolt or not. Definitely bring some small cams along, maybe a couple of green c3s (save one for after the bolt). I decided from the ground to decide whether to clip the bolt when I got there. Due to the flaring nature of the crack, protection was somewhat dubious and quite a bit down from the bolt, which meant I thought better to clip the bolt and wuss out than break my legs in a nasty fall (or worse!). I encourage you to make the same ev... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Wipeyur Buttress : Mr. Hanky (5.10a)
By: percious When: Jun 29, 2011

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Comments: FA: Chris Perkins Summer 2009.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Training Grounds : First Blood (5.9)
By: percious When: Jun 29, 2011

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Comments: First Ascent: Chris Perkins, Mike Lane, September, 2008. Watch out for broken rock on this one, there still remains some despite the first second by "The Exfoliator".


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Jungle : The Green Tornado (5.10b)
By: percious When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: This is a great, shorter climb with a puzzling crux section. Pull through a variety of underclings after a short slab section. Secretive moves allow the climber to establish themselves on the upper slab where a giant hand jam provides a rest after the pump. Although short, this climb has lots to offer.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Training Grounds : Beginner's Luck (5.6)
By: percious When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: The chickenheads on the upper part of this wall are NOT to be missed. If you are a 5.11+ climber, do it in your sandals, tennis shoes muck-lucks, if you need it harder, but DO it. If you are a trad climber, bring a small rack and a bunch of slings to "choke the chickens" at the top. This one is a G-rated trad climb!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Cut Loose (5.11-)
By: percious When: Jun 24, 2011

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Comments: Interesting 5.10-ish moves for the first two clips give way to the roof. There was a hornet's nest forming at the roof which I demolished before finishing out the climb. The crux sequence is fun, and a bit committing. There are some small holds that are useful for shorter climbers under the roof. One 5.11 move guarantees the summit. You can clip with one hand off the jug off the roof with your feet dangling, not that I'd ever do anything like that ;-). Fun for spectators and clim... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Aretnophobia (5.11)
By: percious When: Jun 24, 2011

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Comments: Nice climb, if inconsistent. Start the early V2 boulder problem to the arete, sticking to the left as much as possible. Balancy moves give way to easier climbing and the roof above. Pull through the second V2 problem on good holds (if you can find them) past two well-placed bolts. Watch for the z-clip through the second crux. There is no way this climb is PG-13. All of the clips are well placed.


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