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Hanging out with some scooter trash.


Member Since: Nov 9, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact percious


Point Rank: # 479
Total Points: 1,186
Last Year: 69
Last 30 Days: 45
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (1613) | Routes (52) | Areas (7) | Photos (75) | Comments (186) | Posts (236) | Stars (572) | Ratings (485)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma : Haus Rock : Dink (5.11a PG13)
By: percious When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: This is a great climb with a well-protected crux. The moves through the roof are thoughtful, and pretty burly. I think this route could be lead all trad, but as a sport climb, it makes sense to me to add 2 bolts (one low, one high) to make it safe. I would be in support of this, as a fall from before the first clip would result in a trip to the hospital, and a fall up higher on the easier terrain would likely be fatal.


Location: CO : Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma : Haus Rock
By: percious When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: Backside L->R
Top Soil, 5.10a, sport.
Side Plate, 5.10a, sport.
No Name, 5.10, sport.
Five Nine, 5.8, sport (I think it's here, might be left one).
Not Lichen This, 5.9+, sport.
Lichen This, 5.9, sport.
Not So Hostile Krainzover, 5.8, sport.
Hostile Krainzover, 5.10a, sport.
5.6 Crack, 5.6, trad.
Feet Do Not Fail Me Now, 5.8 sport, *Classic.
The Spine, 5.10+ sport, *Classic.
Flakin' Out, 5.10a.
Dirty Love, 5.9.
They Call Me Shorty, 5.7.
Little Squirt, 5.6.

Around the corner L-&... more >>


Location: CO : Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma : Haus Rock : Not So Hostile Krainzover (5.8+)
By: percious When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: Pull up into a large dish below the large s-shaped crack. Some juggy dihedral moves lead to some thin face climbing and the finish.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Beer Barrel Buttress (5.10c)
By: percious When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: Spacey indeed. I would only head up this one if you are solid in the 10s. The final crux puts you in ledge-fall potential. This one is a bit easier with a longer draw at the crux.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.7 Face (5.7)
By: percious When: Jun 15, 2012

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Comments: Sketchy gear. I ended up pulling off to the arete on the left where the holds are more secure after placing a blue Metolius in the overlap. I could not find a location for two pieces despite my best effort and breaking off part of the overlap on the left side. Don't lead this unless you are comfortable soloing 5.7 slab.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.10 Crack aka "Thin Finger... (5.10c C1) : Photo (Copy)
By: percious When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: The climb is 3 in the photo.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : J-Crack (5.9)
By: percious When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: This is a great climb but definitely a sandbag at 5.9. Expect throbbing toes unless you have excellent crack technique (I do not). Stiff soled shoes might also help. The traverse on p3 is heads up on tiny edges but is all there (5.10c). The rest of pitches 2, 3, and first 1/2 of 3 are sustained 5.9.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Photo
By: percious When: Jun 7, 2012

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Comments: This is actually the Training Grounds.

Climbers on Practice Run (5.8) and Learning Curve (5.9-)

I believe the first ascentionist is back-clipped there ;-).


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Bouldering (mile marker 268... : Illness Boulders : Photo
By: percious When: May 23, 2012

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Comments: Hard route, interesting position, amazing lighting. Nicely done.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Monument : Fire on the Mountain (5.10d)
By: percious When: May 19, 2012

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Comments: Actually.

I'm not sure who climbed the FA, but the day Tod, DD, and I rapped down and placed first bolts on the last pitch, the climb was named. I called the fire into the authorities from atop the climb, but they may have already been informed. That was a momentous first day at the head for me, and I would not return to climb all three pitches from the bottom with Tod for two years (long after the FA was done).


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : Z is Last, but this is Firs... (5.7+ R)
By: percious When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: Please do not climb this route right now. There are some large nesting birds about 1/2 way up. They are disturbed by climber's presence. Later in the summer when the nest is unoccupied, I will try and get it cleared out.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : The Nautilus Cave Pitch (5.10)
By: percious When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: I'd be wary of sending a budding 5.10 leader up there. I think that if you toprope this thing to death and rehearse the moves before giving it a go on lead, you might come out with 10b. Onsight, with strenuous placements and numerous possibilities for sequences, deciphering the "right" way to climb this thing is pretty hard. I think 10d is more reasonable onsight rating.

The bolts are well-placed and protect the crux of the climb adequately. I found 3 blue Metolius or green Alien placements... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Icarus (5.6 R)
By: percious When: May 11, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday for the first time. Couple of notes:

If you have a 70m rope, you can reach the base of the climb by climbing West Chimney and trending right to the Red Ledge. There's actually some fun moves in there. From the ledge, you can get a small cam and place a long runner and make it to the small tree at the base of Icarus. I recommend one of those pulley carabiners if you do this. I wish I had one. This is a nice way to protect your second on the ledge if you find this nec... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : The Tongue (5.8+)
By: percious When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: There is a large bolt with no hanger at nearly the top odd the dihedral sticking out about 2 inches. Careful not to poke yourself with this eyesore. Does anyone object to its removal, since there is adequate pro nearby and it seriously degrades the quality and safety of the route?


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : Frozen Fingers (aka Top Rop... (5.9)
By: percious When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: There is a large block on this about 3/4 way up that looks fairly unstable. I'll X it the next time I'm there. It's going to need a crowbar and may destabilize the block above if removed. I'd advise against its use. Looking for feedback as to whether folks want this thing gone.

Otherwise, this is a great route with solution pockets, and an unbelievable rail appears, just when you need it. Fun!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : Dihedral Route (5.7)
By: percious When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: Nice route. Amazing exposure for a 60-footer. Make sure you bring some long runners to manage rope drag. This thing is still exfoliating, and there is a loose square-shaped block at the crux. It's not required to pull through. I'll try to trundle it next time I'm up there.

I think a 4" piece would be helpful, but the largest I brought up was a #3.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Nautilus : Nautilus Traverse (V3)
By: percious When: Apr 20, 2012

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Comments: Right->left is much easier at V2, even if you use the lower holds.
Left->right is V3-, even if you use the higher holds.

Super fun traverse.

Also, on the left side of the traverse is a fun vertical problem with a big throw to a hueco off big holds. V1.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Neanderthal Wall : Pack the Walls (5.6)
By: percious When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments: Great route with great protection. I wish it was longer. The opening moves are steep, and there's some loose rock at the crux before entering the chimney. No way I'd send a beginner leader up this one, but it's a good place to practice setting some anchors at the bottom.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
By: percious When: Dec 12, 2011

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Comments: It might be worth noting that the route is named for one of the contributors to the invention of the semi-conductor, and eventually the integrated circuit, which we all are lucky enough to utilize whilst contributing to, and consuming, this site!

Awesome climb. Do it in the "classic" way. In the buff.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Handcrack (5.8)
By: percious When: Oct 31, 2011

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Comments: My favorite hand crack at Table.


Location: C Miller : Scenic : Photo
By: percious When: Oct 12, 2011

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Comments: cool photo. The structure and shadows on the left looks like a woman clutching the face.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Twelve Pack Wall : Honey, I Shrunk the Hemmorr... (5.7)
By: percious When: Oct 10, 2011

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Comments: Difficult opening moves for 5.7 leader with no protection. Basically, it's a couple of overhanging bouldering moves and somewhat insecure feet right before a bolt at 20 feet off the deck. Factor in ground-fall potential for second bolt clip (although after admittedly easier terrain) and ledge fall clipping the anchors, and this route is potentially dangerous for someone new to leading. I for one would welcome the addition to 3 bolts to this route, which would add a nice beginner lead to the a... more >>


Location: CT : Northwest : Diamond Ledge : Out of bounds (5.10a)
By: percious When: Sep 28, 2011

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Comments: I agree that the picture indicates the climb: wishbone. If you want to call it 5.10 that's your business. It's really not all that hard if you have some offwidth skill. Bring some big gear!


Location: CT : Northwest : Diamond Ledge : Crow's Nest (5.9)
By: percious When: Sep 28, 2011

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Comments: Wanted to mention that the name "crows nest" is merely a place holder since I do not know who the FA is. We called it that because there was a giant nest on the ledge when we first climbed it. I have no idea if anyone had climbed it previously, but it would not surprise me in the least.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Dinosaur's Foot : Strategery (5.7)
By: percious When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: I think there are 5 bolts on this route, not 4. It is very well protected in any event. Easy clips.


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