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Member Since: Aug 9, 2007
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact peachy spohn


Point Rank: # 626
Total Points: 1,013
Last Year: 144
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has peachy spohn been climbing?










Contributions


All 969 | Routes 73 | Areas 5 | Photos 25 | Page Improvements | Comments 83 | Posts 24 | Stars 742 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Let's Just Call It Kashmir ... (5.12b PG13)
By: peachy spohn When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: I am definitely willing to help! I have been wanting to rebolt frightnight for a while and would def. do that one myself if you have the bolts available! I placed the new bolts on the old Tom Scales project that veers off of Dracula, and am not sure about the Aid Line (unless they are the same, but I thought the aid line began left and continued up the slab to the old red webbing). As far as other routes go I can send you an email. Thanks for getting this going and for all the work!

Matt-


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Let's Just Call It Kashmir ... (5.12b PG13)
By: peachy spohn When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: @ Micah Klesick, it appears to be called this in Mr. Olson's 2011/4th Edition to the Portland Rock Climbs. I can say that the main bolt on the climb is old and rusted and every time I clip it my heart begins to beat a little faster. Also, there is a way to escape to Critical Mass, but even by doing this escape I feel the grade is harder than 11+. If you avoid Critical Mass (yes, somewhat contrived) then the grade is stout 12b. I have been climbing it since 2008 and probably should replace t... more >>


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Dark Tower (5.13)
By: peachy spohn When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: Nice Job Eric!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Eleven Cent Moon (5.11d)
By: peachy spohn When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: Great route! The piton is gone, but it isn't necessary: a cam (#2 Metolius) and a small stopper can be used. I also placed a small stopper in the amazing, arching, super cool dihedral.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : 10,000 Maniacs (5.11c)
By: peachy spohn When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: Bouldery start but worth it for the top 2/3.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Secret 13 Wall : Go a Hundred (5.13b)
By: peachy spohn When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Great route! Nothing creaky anymore...super solid. Very continuous and a huge pump! The top is somewhat dynamic and reachy .. I felt it was harder than 'you are what you is.' Yippy!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Excellent Adventure (5.11c R)
By: peachy spohn When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: Amazing route! Excellent position and extremely fun moves. I would agree with the R rating as you could take long falls with the possibility of getting hurt...especially if any flake were to break. That being said the most difficult moves have bolts nearby. Loved the route!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rollerball Formation : Rollerbrah (5.12a)
By: peachy spohn When: Jan 11, 2014

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Comments: It's an OK TR, but a bit contrived? I had to slap out left to the arÍte that Roller Coaster uses (a bit of a lunge). The start, slabby section is good old burly crimping and involves a hard cross to a hard micro edge. It'll tear up your fingers for sure, but worth a few goes, so do it fast or leave it behind and get on something better!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Turtle Rock : ... : Desert Shield (5.13a)
By: peachy spohn When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: I love this route! So good! Every time it's as good as the last...WOW! Still, the upper crescents are flexy and I hope never break.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meister's Edge : The Aspirant (5.13a)
By: peachy spohn When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: I got back on the Aspirant yesterday and have to say that it is a good route with fun moves. About three years ago it was still a bit crumbly, but that is no longer the case. Good, solid rock. It is the hardest 13a I have done at Red Rocks, so as for the grade it's tough. But it is def. worth your time. A powerful beginning (stick clip) leads to some big, fun moves and then to the Hueco rest. Shake out and go for the top crux, a sequential section that leads the route to a fun mantle.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Sky Fishermen (free variati... (5.13a PG13)
By: peachy spohn When: Sep 11, 2013

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Comments: I freed Sky Fisherman again yesterday and I just want to say again that it is a great route! The best of the grade in PDX! One reason for climbing it so soon after my ascent, besides the fun, was that I know a few aid groups have gone up it the past couple weeks. I understand that Beacon is an aid climbing haven, but I would like to give my input -(which is probably being overly cautious as I know many of the aid climbers in the area and their ability to properly place and hammer)- and nudge a... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Devaluation (5.7)
By: peachy spohn When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: The block is quite unnerving! I used it, but pulled as lightly as I could. I think the 5.9 variation on the right (small dihedral and lay back section) is much safer and just as fun.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Cannibals (5.12d)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 31, 2013

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Comments: Just as amazing as I remember and What a great climb. It was colder than last August and the holds were much tackier!


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Wild Turkeys (5.13a R)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: - Thanks Ryan!

- Yeah, Jim is a great guy and friend of mine, Joe. I'm super psyched he showed me the line and commended my FFA, or what ever else it might be called. I was going with the definition I know, (first free ascent (FFA) acknowledges lead ascents intentionally made more challenging by using equipment for protection only). Everyone is always going to have a different opinion and I am fine with that. I openly disclosed my pre-placed gear. No shame for me. You can call it what yo... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Excalibur (5.12b)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: Cleaned up and ready for 2013 action!


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Blownout (5.10b)
By: peachy spohn When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: No poison oak noticed as of 07/27/2013! Get on it! Have fun!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Electric Avenue : Electric Avenue (5.11d)
By: peachy spohn When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: One of the best routes! And the pro is smaller, but very solid. After leading it I set up an anchor in the crack at the top to TR and then the last cleaned up and rapped the anchor of Young Frank.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Checkered Demon : Gigantor (5.13)
By: peachy spohn When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: Super stout at .13b, but a fantastic line. I didn't get the RP yet, but Mike is correct in saying it gets progressively harder. The moves are fun and invigoratingly different, especially through the mid-section. And the top houses some powerful reaches between crimps.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Fat Lip (5.12a)
By: peachy spohn When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: Super de Duper! Great moves on great rock. One of the best .12s I did here. You should clip the first two with long slings and then skip the first on the arete/face, or just back clean the first on the traverse to reduce the drag. But there really wasn't a problem using long slings.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - Southwest : Calamari (5.12a/b)
By: peachy spohn When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: I thought Calamari was really fun. Exiting at the top is probably the hardest part and you can go either left or right. Great position!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Dungeon : The Heretic (5.13b)
By: peachy spohn When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: I also didn't detect any manufacturing of holds on this route. However, I was talking with Ranger Brad (super nice and knowledgeable guy) and he brought up a rumor that possibly the "Spud" was glued on to the wall. When I climbed Heretic I didn't notice or even think about the Spud being a glued on hold, but I wasn't paying much attention. I wonder? A very fun and energetic route and definitely felt like 13b. Get on it!


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Scorpion Seam (5.12c/d)
By: peachy spohn When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: Again,amazing route. One of the best hard 12s in the Portland area and it has a couple fixed draws now?!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Peter Principle (5.10d)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 25, 2012

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Comments: We could just call it 12a and be done with it? But, it is a great route with lots of fun moves! For what it's worth: I os it and it surely felt like 11 to me. Also, my friends who TRed it after me thought it was straight forward enough, but said they thought it was at least 11a.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : North Stars Wall : Ice Pirates (5.11b)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 25, 2012

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Comments: What a crazy, fun route! The mantle isn't mandatory, but it's the most obvious way to get above the roof. The upper section of the route has some of the coolest moves and holds. I thought that this was one of the better routes at North Star too.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Little Feat (5.10d)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 25, 2012

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Comments: I thought that this route was quite difficult for the grade given here and in the new guide book. Better make sure you're a solid solid solid 10+ climber (or just a solid 5.11 climber) before you get on this.


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