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Member Since: Aug 9, 2007
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
Contact peachy spohn


Point Rank: # 656
Total Points: 893
Last Year: 140
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Comments are worth 1



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All (895) | Routes (66) | Areas (4) | Photos (19) | Comments (78) | Posts (23) | Stars (690) | Ratings (15)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rollerball Formation : Rollerbrah (5.12a)
By: peachy spohn When: Jan 11, 2014

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Comments: It's an OK TR, but a bit contrived? I had to slap out left to the arÍte that Roller Coaster uses (a bit of a lunge). The start, slabby section is good old burly crimping and involves a hard cross to a hard micro edge. It'll tear up your fingers for sure, but worth a few goes, so do it fast or leave it behind and get on something better!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Turtle Rock : ... : Desert Shield (5.13a)
By: peachy spohn When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: I love this route! So good! Every time it's as good as the last...WOW! Still, the upper crescents are flexy and I hope never break.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meister's Edge : The Aspirant (5.13a)
By: peachy spohn When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: I got back on the Aspirant yesterday and have to say that it is a good route with fun moves. About three years ago it was still a bit crumbly, but that is no longer the case. Good, solid rock. It is the hardest 13a I have done at Red Rocks, so as for the grade it's tough. But it is def. worth your time. A powerful beginning (stick clip) leads to some big, fun moves and then to the Hueco rest. Shake out and go for the top crux, a sequential section that leads the route to a fun mantle.


Location: OR : Beacon Rock : Sky Fishermen (free variati... (5.13a PG13)
By: peachy spohn When: Sep 11, 2013

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Comments: I freed Sky Fisherman again yesterday and I just want to say again that it is a great route! The best of the grade in PDX! One reason for climbing it so soon after my ascent, besides the fun, was that I know a few aid groups have gone up it the past couple weeks. I understand that Beacon is an aid climbing haven, but I would like to give my input -(which is probably being overly cautious as I know many of the aid climbers in the area and their ability to properly place and hammer)- and nudge a... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Devaluation (5.7)
By: peachy spohn When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: The block is quite unnerving! I used it, but pulled as lightly as I could. I think the 5.9 variation on the right (small dihedral and lay back section) is much safer and just as fun.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Cannibals (5.12d)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 31, 2013

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Comments: Just as amazing as I remember and What a great climb. It was colder than last August and the holds were much tackier!


Location: OR : Beacon Rock : Wild Turkeys (5.13a R)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: - Thanks Ryan!

- Yeah, Jim is a great guy and friend of mine, Joe. I'm super psyched he showed me the line and commended my FFA, or what ever else it might be called. I was going with the definition I know, (first free ascent (FFA) acknowledges lead ascents intentionally made more challenging by using equipment for protection only). Everyone is always going to have a different opinion and I am fine with that. I openly disclosed my pre-placed gear. No shame for me. You can call it what yo... more >>


Location: OR : Beacon Rock : Excalibur (5.12b)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: Cleaned up and ready for 2013 action!


Location: OR : Beacon Rock : Blownout (5.10b)
By: peachy spohn When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: No poison oak noticed as of 07/27/2013! Get on it! Have fun!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Electric Avenue : Electric Avenue (5.11d)
By: peachy spohn When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: One of the best routes! And the pro is smaller, but very solid. After leading it I set up an anchor in the crack at the top to TR and then the last cleaned up and rapped the anchor of Young Frank.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Checkered Demon : Gigantor (5.13)
By: peachy spohn When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: Super stout at .13b, but a fantastic line. I didn't get the RP yet, but Mike is correct in saying it gets progressively harder. The moves are fun and invigoratingly different, especially through the mid-section. And the top houses some powerful reaches between crimps.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Fat Lip (5.12a)
By: peachy spohn When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: Super de Duper! Great moves on great rock. One of the best .12s I did here. You should clip the first two with long slings and then skip the first on the arete/face, or just back clean the first on the traverse to reduce the drag. But there really wasn't a problem using long slings.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - Southwest : Calamari (5.12a/b)
By: peachy spohn When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: I thought Calamari was really fun. Exiting at the top is probably the hardest part and you can go either left or right. Great position!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Dungeon : The Heretic (5.13b)
By: peachy spohn When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: I also didn't detect any manufacturing of holds on this route. However, I was talking with Ranger Brad (super nice and knowledgeable guy) and he brought up a rumor that possibly the "Spud" was glued on to the wall. When I climbed Heretic I didn't notice or even think about the Spud being a glued on hold, but I wasn't paying much attention. I wonder? A very fun and energetic route and definitely felt like 13b. Get on it!


Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Scorpion Seam (5.12c/d)
By: peachy spohn When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: Again,amazing route. One of the best hard 12s in the Portland area and it has a couple fixed draws now?!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Peter Principle (5.10d)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 25, 2012

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Comments: We could just call it 12a and be done with it? But, it is a great route with lots of fun moves! For what it's worth: I os it and it surely felt like 11 to me. Also, my friends who TRed it after me thought it was straight forward enough, but said they thought it was at least 11a.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : North Stars Wall : Ice Pirates (5.11b)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 25, 2012

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Comments: What a crazy, fun route! The mantle isn't mandatory, but it's the most obvious way to get above the roof. The upper section of the route has some of the coolest moves and holds. I thought that this was one of the better routes at North Star too.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Little Feat (5.10d)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 25, 2012

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Comments: I thought that this route was quite difficult for the grade given here and in the new guide book. Better make sure you're a solid solid solid 10+ climber (or just a solid 5.11 climber) before you get on this.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Cannibals (5.12d)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 25, 2012

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Comments: An amazing route. The "Corner of Hell" is the hardest part, but the peanut at the top is a heart breaker! Definitely harder than 12d, but I guess you got to go with the flow.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Mayhem Cove : Cajun Hell (5.13a/b)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 25, 2012

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Comments: This is a great route! I felt that the hardest moves were just before the first anchors and then just pass that, after your shake, where I did a hard cross to a slopping pinch. The top half is amazing and consistent, with some techy sections and cool lie-backs.


Location: OR : Beacon Rock : Old Warriors Never Die (5.12b PG13)
By: peachy spohn When: Sep 14, 2011

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Comments: I completely agree J. I'm one for running it out and not destroying the history and style of a route. I was simply thinking of adding an anchor and replacing the last bolt (really in need of it) and in doing so hopefully getting people interested in climbing the route and out to Beacon. Of course I'll contact the 1st ascentionist too!

Cheers-


Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Dark Tower (5.13)
By: peachy spohn When: Sep 8, 2011

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Comments: Today I sent Dark Tower (I think it is the FFA?). Thanks to Phillip for cleaning the route, and letting the line catch my eye! I would say it is surely .13a/b, but more towards the "b." Great line!


Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Dark Tower (5.13)
By: peachy spohn When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: I got on this for the first time today and (to my surprise) it had been cleaned and fixed with draws. The climbing is very interesting, the first bulge crux especially, and the higher you get the better the climbing becomes. Solid rock. I recommend it.


Location: OR : French's Dome : Jackie Chan (5.11d)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 24, 2011

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Comments: The direct start is quite powerful and has some small crimps. I thought that these moves were harder than anything on Pump O Rama and that the 11d grade was off.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Bunny Slopes : Hot Crossed Buns (5.6 PG13)
By: peachy spohn When: Aug 9, 2011

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Comments: Very fun climbing, but in no way well protected. There is a place for a small cam up high in a horizontal(Red #4 Metolius I think) but it is dirty and not the best placement.


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